I have '95 convertible w/LT1 engine. My local Chev. dealer is making this sound like $$$$ because it is a convertible. True? Haynes Manual makes it look simple and doesn't differentiate between coupe/conv.

 

There is cross member brace under your car, and they have to drop it to replace filter. The other end is has to be a drive on lift. Other that all that it's easy.

 

Thanks...I'm usually first in the "Worst Case Scenario" line!

 

I also have a 95 vert. The vert has the x-brace and the filter top nut is hard to get to. If I remember correctly the cat is in the way. If you use the method below and pull it with the front line attached it is extremely easy. A one hour job, if that. You may have to teach the dealership the procedure. I had to explain it to Jiffy Lube one day. Luckily I had the forum and they didn't.


Wait for cat and engine to cool.
Jack car up.
Remove the x-brace.
Pull fuse for the fuel pump. (Relieves pressure when engine is cranked below)
Loosen gas cap. (Relieves pressure)
Crank engine a few times.
Release pressure at valve.
Disconnect fuel line at engine with Lisle Fuel line tool. (Be ready to catch a little gas)
Unhook fuel line from inner fender tie down.
Disconnect fuel filter rear nut. (Be ready to catch some gas)
Pull fuel filter, with front fuel line still connected, from bottom of car.
Swap filter and reinstall.

Piece of cake.




Here's a quick write up I did two years ago.

Replaced the fuel filter yesterday. It took less that two hours. With the proper tools and knowledge it could be done in about an hour or so. I pulled the car up on some plastic Rhino ramps I picked up from Autozone for $30. I then pulled the FP1 fuse and ran the engine till it died. Next I tried to start it a few more times to clear out all the fuel. Then I removed the fuel line in the engine compartment with one of those plastic Lisle tools from Pep-boys. (Be carefull some fuel will still shoot out under pressure. Then I completely removed one side of the x-brace (14 bolts). Next I unbolted the circular bracket that holds in the fuel filter. I then unbolted the bottom line with a 19 wrench to hold the filter and a 5/8 wrench to unscrew the line bolt. There is also a factory rubber peice with a tie wrap around it that must be removed to seperate the incoming and return fuel lines. After all these connections are loose the fuel filter slips out easily from below. Install the new fuel filter once the old one and the upper line have been removed. To reinstall simply reverse the steps.

Lisle fuel line tool. If I remember correctly under $10 from pep-boys.

 

The first time I changed my filter on my 92 Vert (RIP) I did it without removing the X Brace. It can be done, you do need a lift, if you are using jackstands...remove the X brace (15mm) Get an electric impact tool, they work great!

Dont forget to release the pressure off the fuel line. With the engine running, I took the fuse out and let the engine die.

good Luck

 

For some reason the labor on removing the x-brace is outragous. I noticed this after I got my last labor bill for a transmission swap. If they use the computer to judge the labor hours expect to pay $$$. Even using a socket set it would have been way too much. They use air wrenches. Only one side of the x brace needs to be removed to squeeze it out from below.

 

Mine was 40 minutes and $65 at local Chevrolet dealership & I supplied the new AC filter. This was better for me....

 

I need to change mine also. I have a '94 coupe so
it should be the same way except for the cross member.

 

Thanks to all....reassuring that everyone is in the same ballpark process wise. Thanks again

 

I'm not sure how different they are but I changed mine without removing the X-brace. I did remove the heat-shield from the Cat, though.
I just got long wrenches and broke loose the flare nuts and took the bracket loose. Removed lines and then filter. Put filter in bracket and loosely snugged it. I used long needle-nosed pliers to start the fuel lines. I then tightened the bracket and then the lines. I did this on a shop floor with a jack-stand and a creeper (and all Hand tools). My first time doing this took about three hours but most of that was trying to restart the flare lines (prior to using the long needle nose pliers sets).

I hope this is helpful, Take Care, -John

 

Just hire my buddy Siveck. He changed out mine without taking the X-brace off. However, word of caution....if you can't do the swap out fairly quickly you will leak tons of gas out. Siveck even took a drop in the eye for my car. After the pain, he got a free lunch.

 

That's not too bad of a deal. I did mine, but I had my exhaust off at the time, so there was plenty of room to work.