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Big Cube Daily Drivers????

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Old May 3, 2008 | 07:47 PM
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Default Big Cube Daily Drivers????

looking for some ideas on big cube dd's. was thinking of a ls swap but i said the hell with it and keep the gen 1. not planning on a single plane intake as i want to stay with a superram, miniram or lt1 conversion depending on what i think is suited for me. will be over 400 ci with 6 spd and 345's. 450-500 chp is sumwhat a number i have in mind, give or take depending on the combo that i wind up with. i have never built a fuel inj motor before, been old school. looking for a proven combo that will be driven ever day at least 60 miles. lopey idle is a must !!!! post up what you have or had and what changes you might have done different.

Thanks
Andy
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Old May 3, 2008 | 08:55 PM
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Well big cube to me is 421, 427, 434 or bigger.

I estimate my 406 to be about the same CBHP/TQ that you are looking for but I have a Holley Stealth Ram.

So it costs a little less to go with a 406 than 421, 427,434 etc, so you IMO you can reach your goal with a SR and a less costly 406
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Old May 4, 2008 | 08:33 PM
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Take a look at this, it might give you ideas.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ild/index.html
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Old May 4, 2008 | 09:00 PM
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Thought about going to a 434, but am now thinking about dropping it back to a 383 with nitrous. I don't want to have my Vette under 10 seconds in the quarter. Too many other things I would have to do to be able to run it. The 383, properly built, should get me in the low 11's and then spray should get me to the low 10's, which is where I want to be.
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Old May 4, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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The engine in my sig will get you your goal.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 11:51 AM
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I think other than maybe a little more gas used, there's more difference in what internal components you build your engine out of rather than the CI's displaced. Cam selection is one of your biggest factors.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 04:24 PM
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Best advice you can get is to decide where you want to be at power wise or ET/MPH (better and more realistic in my opinion) then once you have that ironed out; find a combo that puts you where you want to be at that is already PROVEN and copy it to a T.

What you may find out is you have more money to do more and you might want to step up the goal; or you will find that you don't have enough to achieve the goal you set out for.

Either way having a game plan is 95% of it.

If you want assured power over anything else, a 400+ inch motor will get you there quicker than anything. A 406 is a KILLER motor with a SR ontop of it. I ran 11.0@123, and never shifted over 5300rpms! That motor would have last an eternity and was a gentle as anything...but put out a great deal of power and moreover torque. I think the rear wheel figures were 436rwhp and 536ft lbs! The buidup/results are in my signiture....the dyno graph as well as the specs all should be there too. Been a while since i have visited my own site.

400+ inch motor is just as cheap to build as a 383; and you can't beat the power they make.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by bjankuski
The engine in my sig will get you your goal.
nice numbers on a reasonable budget
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Old May 5, 2008 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by QuikZilver
Thought about going to a 434, but am now thinking about dropping it back to a 383 with nitrous. I don't want to have my Vette under 10 seconds in the quarter. Too many other things I would have to do to be able to run it. The 383, properly built, should get me in the low 11's and then spray should get me to the low 10's, which is where I want to be.
As a another poster said CI doesn't neccesarily bluid low ET's. In fact you could probably do it with a 350 (I think one guy on the forum is doing it with the original short block)

The path to ETs is with both power and suspension. Power is in the heads, cam, and possibly torque converter. More displacement just moves the power band to lower RPMs. The only reason I went to big cubes is to pull the RPM range down low for AutoX and street...infinite torque up to third gear=no shifting required. For drag you might as well let wind up.

GO BUY DYNO2000 or similiar program. Put in several heads/cams and displacements. The program will help you to understand the difference between one motor and another...cheers.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 10:12 PM
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you are exactly rite...proven combo's. i have a friend that has a 415 sitting in the corner that i was thinking of buying for parts. dont remember all the specs..the block has been filled and it is a gm 400 that has been sprayed and has 12.5 comp...so i was thinking of a lil m to replace that and a set of pistons to drop it down between 10 or 11.1. it does have brodix heads and as for the cam it is reasonable as i remember. it dynoed at i think 560 or 580 with a single plane. i need the cam specs to kno a lil more about it. just remember this is for parts only as after the dyno it has sat in the corner for a while...he went an built a 427 with all the good parts. i did look at your site but didnt find motor specs..i will look more when i have time....but i do like low end grunt.




Originally Posted by ski_dwn_it
Best advice you can get is to decide where you want to be at power wise or ET/MPH (better and more realistic in my opinion) then once you have that ironed out; find a combo that puts you where you want to be at that is already PROVEN and copy it to a T.

What you may find out is you have more money to do more and you might want to step up the goal; or you will find that you don't have enough to achieve the goal you set out for.

Either way having a game plan is 95% of it.

If you want assured power over anything else, a 400+ inch motor will get you there quicker than anything. A 406 is a KILLER motor with a SR ontop of it. I ran 11.0@123, and never shifted over 5300rpms! That motor would have last an eternity and was a gentle as anything...but put out a great deal of power and moreover torque. I think the rear wheel figures were 436rwhp and 536ft lbs! The buidup/results are in my signiture....the dyno graph as well as the specs all should be there too. Been a while since i have visited my own site.

400+ inch motor is just as cheap to build as a 383; and you can't beat the power they make.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by yedister
Take a look at this, it might give you ideas.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ild/index.html
ideas and wood at the same time
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Old May 5, 2008 | 10:36 PM
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thats the combos im looking for with the rpm's down low.im not planning on going to the strip any more or auto x...just want massive torque on the street for a fun car to play with. i love to be set back in the seat while its digging....just never built a fuel inj motor for the street.


Originally Posted by ZD1
As a another poster said CI doesn't neccesarily bluid low ET's. In fact you could probably do it with a 350 (I think one guy on the forum is doing it with the original short block)

The path to ETs is with both power and suspension. Power is in the heads, cam, and possibly torque converter. More displacement just moves the power band to lower RPMs. The only reason I went to big cubes is to pull the RPM range down low for AutoX and street...infinite torque up to third gear=no shifting required. For drag you might as well let wind up.

GO BUY DYNO2000 or similiar program. Put in several heads/cams and displacements. The program will help you to understand the difference between one motor and another...cheers.
Reply
Old May 9, 2008 | 08:06 PM
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nobody wants to share their secrets
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Old May 9, 2008 | 10:16 PM
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You haven't really laid down any goals, so it's tough to help out. 450 CHP (say 400 at the wheels) is pretty attainable with just a 383. Budget is also a factor.

Here's an LT1 I did awhile ago:

SCAT 9000 crank, 3.75 stroke
Probe forged pistons and rods
LT4 hotcam
Mildly ported LT1 stock heads, stock valves

It made 380 RWHP on motor, idled like a stock car, never over heated, blew ice cubes out the vents with the AC on, my wife could drive it without a problem, and it made good power on motor and sick power on the bottle. On just a 100 shot it made 475/620 RWHP/RWTQ. I think it would of held up to a 200 shot just fine, but I never got the chance to try it because I sold the car.

It all depends on what you want. There's a million ways to build a small block.
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Old May 9, 2008 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by COPO
ideas and wood at the same time
Morning wood?
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Old May 12, 2008 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by yedister
Take a look at this, it might give you ideas.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ild/index.html
the more i read this an thinking of a few changes......the wood gets harder
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Old May 12, 2008 | 10:58 PM
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383 with Hot Cam is a very quiet, very livable. SOme will argue the cam is too small, but it put down over 415ft/lbs toque in my 396 with shortys and an auto with 3.75 gears.
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To Big Cube Daily Drivers????

Old May 13, 2008 | 08:15 AM
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I don't plan on driving my Vette on a daily basis when the 421 gets dropped in, but saying that I dont drive it on a daily basis anyway.

The motor will be very tame, and I will still be able to go on a 500 mile road trip if I want too. I am still expecting to get somewhere in the 23 mpg area, and trap in the low 120's.

It's all about driveability for me! I could of went with a bigger cam, and a much bigger heads, but I choice not too.
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Old May 13, 2008 | 09:28 AM
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Forget about 23 mpg with a 421.

Come on dude....Go get a solid roller and trade those heads in on some larger ones, you know you want it .
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Old May 13, 2008 | 09:31 AM
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Stick with it Rick, I get 25mpg on the highway with my 412.
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