dan_t

Please I am in need of some help here! - I've got a Scat Rotating Assembly on order from Jegs.

Its a 2pc Rear Seal, Externally Ballanced 383 setup. I've only just realised that its most likely going to come with a 168 tooth flexplate!
I've had a look around Jegs and Scat's cat and I cannot find a 153 Externally balanced flexplate for a 1985 2 pc rear seal engine?!

HELP?! Where do I go from here??

Pete K

Simple solution. Your engine builder can weld a piece of steel to a nuetral 153 tooth flexplate to duplicate a stock, 400 external spec.

dan_t

would this need to be done by the machine shop? Here we have engine builders and machine shops that do balancing etc its not all done in house.
I can get steel welded on no problem by the engine builder but I would have thought that it woul need to be added in specific places for ballencing?

Pete K

Correct, the shop would weld a piece in a specific spot. It is the perfect time to verify the balance of your mail order balance assembly. Never trust that any rotating assembly is balanced.

dan_t

I'm sure that its going to need some clearancing with the cam anyway?

I was always intending to send the kit of to be re-balanced, I will just have to ask if they can externally balance an internally balanced flexplate. I hope its something that there familiar with.

Pete, your always so helpfull! -

ps, I'm in the market for a new torque converter. I would imagin that shipping is going to be the killer with doing a deal with yourself but if you want to price me something up in the 2200-2500ish stall then please feel free to PM me.

Pete K

It really is no big deal for a pro to convert an internal to an external.
No worries.
I am about to make a 7 hour drive back home, so I will pm you tomorrow evening, if that is ok.
As far as shipping, I would only charge actual out of pocket. Hopefully, it is not too bad to jump over the pond.

dan_t

will look forward to hearing from you

thanks once again Pete, have a good drive and keep out of trouble

CFI-EFI

Simpler yet is to use a stock 168 tooth, 400 inches³, flex plate and change the nose housing on your starter. Just make sure your block has all three starter mounting bolt holes drilled and tapped before you install the engine.

RACE ON!!!

dan_t

I don't suppose anyone has a picture of this so I can double check on the block?

CFI-EFI

Look on the surface of the block that the starter bolts to. It either has two or it has three holes drilled and tapped for starter bolts. IF there are only two (unusual) you can drill and tap the third. It will be easier to to BEFORE the engine goes in, right Ralph?

RACE ON!!!

dan_t

thats great, I've been and had a look and it does indeed have 3 mouting holes

Many thanks,

Dan

CFI-EFI

Great! Now, in order to use a 168 tooth flex plate in place of the 153 toother, all you have to do is either use a 400 or big block starter, or simply change the nose housing of your existing old style big Delco starter. There are after market mini starters that use the 153 tooth bolt holes but I am trying to help keep your expenses down.

RACE ON!!!

rodj

All the L98 and earlier blocks I have seen have 3 holes;
GM cheaped out on the L31 Vortecs at least and only drilled for 168 tooth flywheel.

dan_t

theres a 168 tooth starter on an auction site here in england at the moment... 99pence at the moment, we'll see where that goes.

CFI-EFI most helpfull my friend!

CFI-EFI

At one point, I thought all the SBCs came with all three holes, because some early Corvettes and some trucks came with TH400s and 168 tooth flywheels or flex plates. Forum member Ralph got himself into a trick box when he discovered, after he installed his engine, that he was missing a starter bolt hole. It's not a super big deal to drill and tap, but it is a lot easier with the engine on an engine stand than in the car.



I'm happy to hear that I was able to help.

RACE ON!!!

LD85

I have had two 400Ci blocks, neither one had 3-holes, I guess I am just lucky!