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I'm looking at a 92 corvette with selective ride control. The seller said that the sensor is gone in it and he has a replacement part for it. Is there anything I should be wary of? Also, how hard is it to replace the part?
What does he mean by "sensor"?? What does this part look like? There is no such "sensor" part by that term in the FX3 system.
The FX3 Selective Ride Control system is made up of 4 adjustable shocks (Bilsteins) an electronically controlled actuator that sit on the top of each of the shocks and a controller with a chip (located in the compartment behind the driver's seat. A switch on the console is used to select one of three shock stiffness settings.
The system uses the switch settings and vehicle speed as input to how stiff or soft the shocks are adjusted. The actuators turn a gear on the shock shaft which then increases or decreases stiffness.
The shocks can be expensive to replace (around $200 each for new) or Bilstein can rebuild them at aslightly lower cost. The actuators cost more; figure around $250 each for new ones. The controller typically does not have any issues so unless it has failed electrically, they las the life of the car. The console switch also typically lasts the life of the car.
FX3 is a great system once you understand how it works and know that it can be pricey to fix.
You can search for lots of good information here using search terms like "FX3" or "Selective Ride Control"
Ok, I did buy the car after looking at it and driving it around for a bit.
The part that needs to be replaced is the actuator. I have the part but I was wondering if there are any specific steps in replacing it (or any previous posts I can be driected to)
It looks pretty simple to me, but I dont know if there is anything I should make sure I do when replacing the actuator.
There are posts here if you use the search function. One note of caution (you don't say if the actuator goes on a front shock or a rear) if it goes on a rear shock .... be careful when you unplug the original actuator wire from the wire that goes up into the body of the car .... that this wire doesn't accidently slip up into the body. If it does it's a PIA to fish it out again. Also if it's a rear shock you will probably have to remove the inner wheel well which is no big deal.
Ok Thanks. Yeah sorry it's the front left actuator.
BTW. . im a bit a a noob. . what does FSM stand for? lol
EDIT: nvm. . . factory service manual. . .
Just replaced mine. Its cake. The issue I had with mine (and it may be the reason that the actuator gear broke) was the shock gear was set too high. Adjusted it put the new actuator on and no more problems or codes.
Just replaced mine. Its cake. The issue I had with mine (and it may be the reason that the actuator gear broke) was the shock gear was set too high. Adjusted it put the new actuator on and no more problems or codes.
This seems to be the most common reason why they break and/or throw codes. I fixed mine in 2001 and have not had any problems since.
Also, is there any specific things i have to do when replacing the front actuator (ie. disconnacting battery terminal, or setting the actuator on while ignition on/off, etc?)
Last edited by Korperal_Punishment; Jun 6, 2008 at 09:53 AM.
Also, is there any specific things i have to do when replacing the front actuator (ie. disconnacting battery terminal, or setting the actuator on while ignition on/off, etc?)
I replaced my actuator by just taking the wire retainer off, pulling it off, inserting new unit in, insert wire retainer in.
Also, is there any specific things i have to do when replacing the front actuator (ie. disconnacting battery terminal, or setting the actuator on while ignition on/off, etc?)
The top of the selector gear should be a min. of
.178 in. above the top of the cup assembly retainer. Just make sure it's not set too high (no specs listed for that) but the actuator should snap into retainer clip with out binding against the top of the gear.
I'm not sure if having the battery disconected will clear you codes. if not, on your ALDL ground pins A and C for 2 seconds and repeat twice for a total of three groundings. That should clear the FX3 codes.
If the shock is installed properly with the proper amount of "bulge" in the upper cushion, the actuator should fit properly. The metal gear on the shock is tall enough to allow the actuator to sit slightly higher or lower within that .178 spec. The metag cannot be installed at any other height as there is a pin that holds the gear to the shock rod. It goes through a hole in the rod just large enough for an interference fit.
The codes can be cleared as stated, but the ignition switch must be on the ON position with the motor NOT running. Disconnecting the battery will not clear any FX3 codes.
If the shock is installed properly with the proper amount of "bulge" in the upper cushion, the actuator should fit properly. The metal gear on the shock is tall enough to allow the actuator to sit slightly higher or lower within that .178 spec. The metag cannot be installed at any other height as there is a pin that holds the gear to the shock rod. It goes through a hole in the rod just large enough for an interference fit.
The codes can be cleared as stated, but the ignition switch must be on the ON position with the motor NOT running. Disconnecting the battery will not clear any FX3 codes.
Thanks c4cruiser for the added detail. Forgot we're helping a noob. I did have an issue with a gear set too high. He had too much crush on the cushing. I had to replace the cushion.
Hope this helps.