Vette Tech Tri-Y Status?
I do think these (1 3/4") headers are a good choice for a blown street car though!
The blower takes care of one end. the headers, the other.
Now to find a cheap blower?
TJM
On the return fuel line, about 6-8 inches from the fuel rail connection, is some sort of diaphragm looking device. Anyone know what this this is or does. (NO diaphragm/birth control jokes please)
I tried to get a pic, but the camera is outta gas. It's now recharging.
On the return fuel line, about 6-8 inches from the fuel rail connection, is some sort of diaphragm looking device. Anyone know what this this is or does. (NO diaphragm/birth control jokes please)
I tried to get a pic, but the camera is outta gas. It's now recharging.
Without it, the fuel rail line pulsates and makes tons of noise.
-- Joe
On the return fuel line, about 6-8 inches from the fuel rail connection, is some sort of diaphragm looking device. Anyone know what this this is or does. (NO diaphragm/birth control jokes please)
I tried to get a pic, but the camera is outta gas. It's now recharging.
I'll check the book and look at my '89 tonight.
Why is it broken or something?
TJM
Never Mind... sounds like you got the right answer
Last edited by TJM; Aug 12, 2008 at 07:31 AM. Reason: no reason to answer!
I received my header back. It is far from perfect-but it is installed. The tube still had to be hammered to fit.
The other issue: He never checked to see if a bolt would fit, after it was reworked. Had to grind the weld and hammer the heck out of the #2 tube for the bolt to go in. A real pain in the A$$!!
Also the #2 and #4 tube (where they join in the Y) is missing a weld in between. I asked Brian to please fix this and he said that he would. However, he did not...I hope it does not leak! Anyways I am done with Brian.
Sorry for the rant!
Steven
P.S. I will post my dyno results and track results (If I get to the track this season).





I received my header back. It is far from perfect-but it is installed. The tube still had to be hammered to fit.
The other issue: He never checked to see if a bolt would fit, after it was reworked. Had to grind the weld and hammer the heck out of the #2 tube for the bolt to go in. A real pain in the A$$!!
Also the #2 and #4 tube (where they join in the Y) is missing a weld in between. I asked Brian to please fix this and he said that he would. However, he did not...I hope it does not leak! Anyways I am done with Brian.
Sorry for the rant!
Steven
On Vader's site, he suggests barely starting each bolt first -- to allow wiggle room for insertion of bolts. Then tighten everything down. Is that the technique you used? IOW, was there simply no way to get around beating it up? Did you have any problem with the other bolts?
Corvette Bob said his (#2 shortened) set barely cleared the control arm. And, he's still concerned it might hit some day. I'm guessing your suspension adjustments made the problem even worse. Or do you think standard camber would have presented the same issue? (Sounds like Bob would have voted for more adjustment than Brian accomplished).
Have you gotten a chance to try them out yet?
On Vader's site, he suggests barely starting each bolt first -- to allow wiggle room for insertion of bolts. Then tighten everything down. Is that the technique you used? IOW, was there simply no way to get around beating it up? Did you have any problem with the other bolts?
Corvette Bob said his (#2 shortened) set barely cleared the control arm. And, he's still concerned it might hit some day. I'm guessing your suspension adjustments made the problem even worse. Or do you think standard camber would have presented the same issue? (Sounds like Bob would have voted for more adjustment than Brian accomplished).
Have you gotten a chance to try them out yet?
What are you using for headers now? I ended up with the 2051s. They install in 30 minutes and clear everything. I wish the 2061s didn't leak but oh well.
I think you guys should bail on these tri-y's until someone can make 'em right. Hammering tubes and grinding doesn't sound very appealing to me.
-- Joe





What are you using for headers now? I ended up with the 2051s. They install in 30 minutes and clear everything. I wish the 2061s didn't leak but oh well.
I think you guys should bail on these tri-y's until someone can make 'em right. Hammering tubes and grinding doesn't sound very appealing to me.
-- Joe
I'm still in line for a redo on these Tri-Ys. Not sure I could cancel w/o having to resell. Originally he said I could return mine, but I gave him the chance and asked for specific changes. He know's I want drop-in fit.
FYI: He's not the one who makes the headers. I now know he goes to another shop. (Maybe Tom had the right idea.)
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I'm still in line for a redo on these Tri-Ys. Not sure I could cancel w/o having to resell. Originally he said I could return mine, but I gave him the chance and asked for specific changes. He know's I want drop-in fit.
FYI: He's not the one who makes the headers. I now know he goes to another shop. (Maybe Tom had the right idea.)
Too bad you guys are having soo much trouble. for the money (that I saw them selling for on ebay) they should just work.
-- Joe
Aside from beating #2 tube they fit great.
If it is a Looonngg tube header you want theses puppies are surely IT..
The 3” Y pipe is an extra cost, but the fit and finish are over all, good. Great Ground clearance, too.
Total out the door with the Ceramic coated “Y” was $875.00 [ not counting what I screwed up trying to fab up a Y].
The question is: “Does the performance match the cost and work?” This ain’t give away cheap??
I have to adjust fuel pressure this evening, [ new 22# FIC injectors] and if no rain she should be able to recalibrate herself tonight for a “Seat Of Pants” dyno check.
I have to say; .... I do like everything but the beating part.
But, speaking frankly, if your selling C4 parts you should have a “Mule” to test for just this thing. Brian should have had that pipe properly flattened, to clear the A arm.
If he had, you all would be singing his praises [ maybe?].
TJM
On Vader's site, he suggests barely starting each bolt first -- to allow wiggle room for insertion of bolts. Then tighten everything down. Is that the technique you used? IOW, was there simply no way to get around beating it up? Did you have any problem with the other bolts?
Corvette Bob said his (#2 shortened) set barely cleared the control arm. And, he's still concerned it might hit some day. I'm guessing your suspension adjustments made the problem even worse. Or do you think standard camber would have presented the same issue? (Sounds like Bob would have voted for more adjustment than Brian accomplished).
Have you gotten a chance to try them out yet?
Well, 43-1/2Lbs of fuel pressure set and 30 minutes of Mr. Good Citizen driving and the computer was pretty much calibrated.
Nice tone. Great idle, like new thank you Jon.
Now, with everything nice and warm, No odd sounds or lose parts? …..No.
Time for irresponsible …“Seat ‘O Pants” …. tests.
From a dead stop, at idle, the full throttle launch made a cloud of smoke, and I fish tailed 100’. Second made the tail twitch a tad [ this is an automatic ].
Well, she never did that before [ I have had this car since 1996]? Injectors or headers??
Stock injectors 22Lbs. nothing fancy.
50mph to 120mph in a 5 - 6 second count. No OD, 3rd gear. Very unscientific, but it was pulling hard at 5,000 rpm. [3.07 rear end].
There it is, totally subjective. Figure what you will.
TJM
On Vader's site, he suggests barely starting each bolt first -- to allow wiggle room for insertion of bolts. Then tighten everything down. Is that the technique you used? IOW, was there simply no way to get around beating it up? Did you have any problem with the other bolts?
Corvette Bob said his (#2 shortened) set barely cleared the control arm. And, he's still concerned it might hit some day. I'm guessing your suspension adjustments made the problem even worse. Or do you think standard camber would have presented the same issue? (Sounds like Bob would have voted for more adjustment than Brian accomplished).
Have you gotten a chance to try them out yet?
Believe me when I say I know how to install a set of headers. There was NO WAY to get that bolt in (shorter bolt, stud with nut, wiggle room, whatever.) I don't mind so much the clearance issue with the control arm as he did not have a C4 to mock-up (why-I don't know). What gets me is that who ever did this change on that tube did not check before getting them coated. Also the weld missing between the 2 and 4 tube should of been addressed.
Regarding the camber, I do think that a stock alignment setting would be ok with these headers. However, Brian did tell me he roadrace C4s. The alignment setting on a roadraced C4 is similar or more (negative camber) than mine. So I do not believe he roadraced a C4 with these same dimensioned headers.
I have not tried them out yet-still have to fab the exhaust. I have been busy with work and have not had the time to play in the garage.
I will take it to the dyno when completed. I am not expecting any big increase-just hoping the torque is a little higher and sooner within the range. Also hope that its louder.
Steven
I've had the Vette Tech tri-y's installed (1 and 5/8") on my '84, going with 3" mandrel bent stainless into a Magnaflow X-pipe, and 2 and 1/2" stainless coming out into a pair of Magnaflow mufflers. Sound is great and performance is ALOT better, to say the least.
The shop that installed the headers said they went in quite easily. The only issues were having to "indent" the front primary on the passenger's side in order to thread the header bolt properly, and also to trim back the 3" expander on the driver's side. I also placed some radiant heat shield (self adhesive type) around the fuel lines and the brake lines where they came very close to the headers. No other issues with clearance.
I've had the Vette Tech tri-y's installed (1 and 5/8") on my '84, going with 3" mandrel bent stainless into a Magnaflow X-pipe, and 2 and 1/2" stainless coming out into a pair of Magnaflow mufflers. Sound is great and performance is ALOT better, to say the least.
The shop that installed the headers said they went in quite easily. The only issues were having to "indent" the front primary on the passenger's side in order to thread the header bolt properly, and also to trim back the 3" expander on the driver's side. I also placed some radiant heat shield (self adhesive type) around the fuel lines and the brake lines where they came very close to the headers. No other issues with clearance.
Congratulations. That makes two use, [maybe three ]that have accomplished this.
I am waiting for someone really serious to run a Dyno on a set.
My Derriere Dyno is not ll that scientific!! Steven?? Bob??
TJM
As soon as I get the exhaust done, I will make an appointment to get it dyno'd.
All is complete (engine side) even got the computer tuned via PCMforless. I hope to have it running in a few weeks.
Steven
Sorry Tom,
My Buttometer can only render very subjective, rather than Objective,
results. In the meantime, I have located a prospective tuner. As for my install, jsup has been trying to send me his fuel lines. His description is of very high quality and durability, while he's offering them to me at 1/2 price. He seems like a pretty good guy, so I'm willing to wait to see what he has to offer.
My Buttometer can only render very subjective, rather than Objective,
results. In the meantime, I have located a prospective tuner. As for my install, jsup has been trying to send me his fuel lines. His description is of very high quality and durability, while he's offering them to me at 1/2 price. He seems like a pretty good guy, so I'm willing to wait to see what he has to offer.
TJM
Sorry for the late reply, I'm actually out of the country for a while. I did receive the other photos, looking forward to seeing the passenger side. Also do you think you'd be able to take a few pics from underneath once you have everything done? I'd like to see how you connect your exhaust.
Thanks again...
jeff













