View Poll Results: Here's what I did
ATI 917275
1
20.00%
ASP 945803
0
0%
stock hub
4
80.00%
Aftermarket keyed hub stock damper
0
0%
Voters: 5. You may not vote on this poll
LT1 Damper Hub
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
LT1 Damper Hub
Its time for a new hub, I didn't have any trouble with the unkeyed stock hub and (looking at my datalogs it hit 6875 during aggressive driving) but now I have a front seal leak, the seal is pretty new but the hub is grooved. So I'm wondering if I should buy:
new factory hub
after market keyed hub and use stock damper
asp 945803
ATI 917275
I probably wouldn't install a key on any hub right now since I don't want to mess with the timing gear in the car and screw up my camshaft timing. (I would have to pull the key IOT install a keyed hub right???
new factory hub
after market keyed hub and use stock damper
asp 945803
ATI 917275
I probably wouldn't install a key on any hub right now since I don't want to mess with the timing gear in the car and screw up my camshaft timing. (I would have to pull the key IOT install a keyed hub right???
Last edited by aboatguy; May 11, 2008 at 12:08 PM.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 346
Likes: 33
From: OKC OK
I recently installed the Pioneer keyed hub on my 94 during the Opti Spark replacement. You can install the key in the crankshaft with the timing cover on. The keyed hub installed much easier than taking the original off, no hard press fit, just snug. I did it since my original hub had threads that were tweeked & I didn't trust them.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
I noticed both my pulley and the hub are keyed for TDC...on the exterior at least. Should I plan on the shaft not being keyed? (requiring me to line it up with TDC myself?)
I have just removed my pulley, hub still there. (Sadly it got rainy yesterday evening and cold/rainy today, then I'm working next 6 days straight). I am planning to pull the hub too and do seals. No idea yet if my hub is grooved.
I have just removed my pulley, hub still there. (Sadly it got rainy yesterday evening and cold/rainy today, then I'm working next 6 days straight). I am planning to pull the hub too and do seals. No idea yet if my hub is grooved.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
Hmm. So GM went so far as to put identifying marks on both the hub and pulley, but made it so it could be installed any which way... Good to know this, I will be sure to mark position and/or put at TDC.
I guess on the bright side, at least the opti is keyed.
I guess on the bright side, at least the opti is keyed.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,504
Likes: 4
From: Mexico Beach FL
If you are getting a hub anyway, the "real" question is: what damper do you want?
If you have basically a stock engine not going past stock rev-limit, my choice would be an after-market keyed hub with the stock damper.
If you have a modified engine that is above about 400 hp and goes higher than 6K rpm, I would get an aftermarket hub/damper assembly designed for that.
Torsional vibration can destroy an engine and different rpms and hp output can require a damper that is different than stock.
Torsional vibration and engine balance are not the same thing.
So an engine in perfect balance can be destroyed by unrestrained torsional vibration due to a damper (notice that I am not calling it a balancer) that is not up to the job.
You can easily feel an engine out of balance, but you will probably never feel torsional vibration that can destroy an engine.
What confuses a lot of people is a damper can also be designed to balance the engine -- in that case, it is a combination damper and balancer in one package. Some people use the terms "balancer" and "damper" to mean the same thing -- they are not.
Tom Piper
If you have basically a stock engine not going past stock rev-limit, my choice would be an after-market keyed hub with the stock damper.
If you have a modified engine that is above about 400 hp and goes higher than 6K rpm, I would get an aftermarket hub/damper assembly designed for that.
Torsional vibration can destroy an engine and different rpms and hp output can require a damper that is different than stock.
Torsional vibration and engine balance are not the same thing.
So an engine in perfect balance can be destroyed by unrestrained torsional vibration due to a damper (notice that I am not calling it a balancer) that is not up to the job.
You can easily feel an engine out of balance, but you will probably never feel torsional vibration that can destroy an engine.
What confuses a lot of people is a damper can also be designed to balance the engine -- in that case, it is a combination damper and balancer in one package. Some people use the terms "balancer" and "damper" to mean the same thing -- they are not.
Tom Piper
Last edited by Tom Piper; May 13, 2008 at 07:17 AM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
I'm going to buy a damper this week so
My 355 hits 6850 regularly. I am looking for an underdrive IOT slow the accessories down, (and I still need a new hub)i
I only see 2 choices on an under drive dampers ATI AND ASP the price difference is considerable .
Is the ati much better than the asp?..... is there a better Y body LT1 choice than ATI or ASP?
If ATI's the better choice, which damper, the heavier one or the light weight?
Mike
My 355 hits 6850 regularly. I am looking for an underdrive IOT slow the accessories down, (and I still need a new hub)i
I only see 2 choices on an under drive dampers ATI AND ASP the price difference is considerable .
Is the ati much better than the asp?..... is there a better Y body LT1 choice than ATI or ASP?
If ATI's the better choice, which damper, the heavier one or the light weight?
Mike
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Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
I'm going to buy a damper this week so
My 355 hits 6850 regularly. I am looking for an underdrive IOT slow the accessories down, (and I still need a new hub)i
I only see 2 choices on an under drive dampers ATI AND ASP the price difference is considerable .
Is the ati much better than the asp?..... is there a better Y body LT1 choice than ATI or ASP?
If ATI's the better choice, which damper, the heavier one or the light weight?
Mike
My 355 hits 6850 regularly. I am looking for an underdrive IOT slow the accessories down, (and I still need a new hub)i
I only see 2 choices on an under drive dampers ATI AND ASP the price difference is considerable .
Is the ati much better than the asp?..... is there a better Y body LT1 choice than ATI or ASP?
If ATI's the better choice, which damper, the heavier one or the light weight?
Mike
Lots of F body guys have all kinds of broken timing chains and WP drive gears, destroyed Opti Sparks, ect because of that ASP set up, which is nothing more than an alum pulley bolted to a hub wrapped around 2 tiny O-Rings. Not much of a harmonic damper... I wouldn't run on on a stock LTX.
As for which ATI is better... I've only used the steel hub and had no problems, other than you'll have to measure the ID of the hub and OD of your crank snout to ensure the hub has the proper amount of press. ATI seems to undersize the hubs and they often require honning for proper fit.
Will
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What would be the reason to replace a Hub/Balancer?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
The ATI is far better.
Lots of F body guys have all kinds of broken timing chains and WP drive gears, destroyed Opti Sparks, ect because of that ASP set up, which is nothing more than an alum pulley bolted to a hub wrapped around 2 tiny O-Rings. Not much of a harmonic damper... I wouldn't run on on a stock LTX.
As for which ATI is better... I've only used the steel hub and had no problems, other than you'll have to measure the ID of the hub and OD of your crank snout to ensure the hub has the proper amount of press. ATI seems to undersize the hubs and they often require honning for proper fit.
Will
Lots of F body guys have all kinds of broken timing chains and WP drive gears, destroyed Opti Sparks, ect because of that ASP set up, which is nothing more than an alum pulley bolted to a hub wrapped around 2 tiny O-Rings. Not much of a harmonic damper... I wouldn't run on on a stock LTX.
As for which ATI is better... I've only used the steel hub and had no problems, other than you'll have to measure the ID of the hub and OD of your crank snout to ensure the hub has the proper amount of press. ATI seems to undersize the hubs and they often require honning for proper fit.
Will
