drive belt tensioner
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3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Jacksonville Florida
drive belt tensioner
I discovered my belt was broken on my way to work, what a pleasant surprise. The belt was slightly brittle and looked like maybe I just overlooked it one too many times so I replaced it to only have my new one brake. I looked at my tensioner and the belt wear indicator is showing it at the max. Is there a way for me to fix the tensioner without having to completely replace it or is that exactly what I need to do?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by denise84
I looked at my tensioner and the belt wear indicator is showing it at the max.
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by janarvae
if you do put a new tensioner on, i believe the bolt must be torqued to 30 ft/lbs. i took my belt off this weekend for a trans removal and believe 30 is the correct value.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Sarasota Fl
Jonathan
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
Check all the pullies for loosness or wobble; if all ok, install a belt sized to put the tensioner indicator in the center of the two referance marks.
Then start the engine and observe belt and pully motion for any anomolies.
Then start the engine and observe belt and pully motion for any anomolies.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by janarvae
Well I used the search function and found an 'Info' post that said to remove when replacing the torque converter. I figure it can't do any harm anyways.
Jonathan
Jonathan
There seems to be a lot of equally valuable advice like that flying around.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 988
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From: Sarasota Fl
I did wonder why I had to remove it, but I figured it was a similar reason to removing the distributor cap (although the cap is plastic and could clearly be damaged by the engine tilting/moving backwards). I'm no expert and the CF member had done it before and nobody who read the post said any differently. No harm done anyways. Plus, now I know how to remove it should the time come.
I guess you (CFI-EFI) and other truly knowledgeable members can't read every post to correct people and give the right info (no sarcasm intended -- genuine statement).
Jonathan
I guess you (CFI-EFI) and other truly knowledgeable members can't read every post to correct people and give the right info (no sarcasm intended -- genuine statement).
Jonathan
Drifting
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Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
Well I used the search function and found an 'Info' post that said to remove when replacing the torque converter
Did info post also say to remove the spark plugs?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 988
Likes: 7
From: Sarasota Fl
Jonathan
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 988
Likes: 7
From: Sarasota Fl
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by janarvae
I did wonder why I had to remove it, but I figured it was a similar reason to removing the distributor cap (although the cap is plastic and could clearly be damaged by the engine tilting/moving backwards). I'm no expert and the CF member had done it before and nobody who read the post said any differently. No harm done anyways. Plus, now I know how to remove it should the time come.
RACE ON!!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 988
Likes: 7
From: Sarasota Fl
You are correct in that there was no harm done. I usually look for steps I can skip, rather than to add. Like removing the fan on my car to get the steering rack out. To me, it didn't seem necessary. It was, but no harm, no foul. When the rack wouldn't clear the fan, I removed it. I saved a lot of time, by skipping steps from the FSM in changing the rear wheel bearings. Removing the distributor cap, on the trans job, clearly can save a broken cap.
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Jonathan
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From: CA
Unless your belt tensioner is weak or the pulley is sloppy, I doubt there is anything wrong with it. A broken belt is not the product of too weak a tensioner. The indicator is to show if the belt is worn or stretched to a point where the tensioner can't keep the proper tension on the belt to keep it from slipping. Chances are the new belt broke because of mishandling during installation (it could have got cut?) or maybe because it was too small. Does the tensioner show to be at the max with a belt installed? If so, the belt is too long. It should show "max" with no belt installed.
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I think they gave you the wrong belt (too long) It happend to me,until I went to a chevy dealer.It was cheaper than Napa,and it was the right one.
