vortech supercharger install questions...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,022
Likes: 3
From: Chandler Arizona
vortech supercharger install questions...
curious to know a few things regarding the LT1 vortech kit install...
the kit lists fuel injectors for the lt1 vortech supercharger kit. I am not sure why they supply 24# injectors when the LT1 comes with 24# injectors stock?
Should I bypass the coolant line to the throttle body as i install the supercharger? I was just thinking that keeping any additional heat away from the intake track (including hot coolant flowing through the TB) would be a good idea.
does anyone have a picture of the fuel line that needs to be disconnected to re-route to the FMU? I know it's the "return line" that needs to be disconnected, but which one is the return line? is it the one with the "funky looking disc" intigrated into the line, or is it the "plane" one. Sorry for the lack of technical terms.
the kit lists fuel injectors for the lt1 vortech supercharger kit. I am not sure why they supply 24# injectors when the LT1 comes with 24# injectors stock?
Should I bypass the coolant line to the throttle body as i install the supercharger? I was just thinking that keeping any additional heat away from the intake track (including hot coolant flowing through the TB) would be a good idea.
does anyone have a picture of the fuel line that needs to be disconnected to re-route to the FMU? I know it's the "return line" that needs to be disconnected, but which one is the return line? is it the one with the "funky looking disc" intigrated into the line, or is it the "plane" one. Sorry for the lack of technical terms.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
Well, not all LT1's had 24# injectors. The early ones had 22#.
Bypassing the TB with the coolant is a good idea weather you are putting a supercharger on or not. It was ment for people that drive their vettes in the winter and need the TB heated to get things to work better in the cold.
If you remove your fuel rail covers and look to the back of the rails you should see an odd little cylinder looking device attached to one of them. That is your fuel pressure regulator. The return line comes out of the back of that cylinder. You'll want to disconnect it at the "quick connect" coupling further down the line. Go to Autozone or where ever and pick up a fuel line disconnect tool set for $5 and it will make it much easier.
Bypassing the TB with the coolant is a good idea weather you are putting a supercharger on or not. It was ment for people that drive their vettes in the winter and need the TB heated to get things to work better in the cold.
If you remove your fuel rail covers and look to the back of the rails you should see an odd little cylinder looking device attached to one of them. That is your fuel pressure regulator. The return line comes out of the back of that cylinder. You'll want to disconnect it at the "quick connect" coupling further down the line. Go to Autozone or where ever and pick up a fuel line disconnect tool set for $5 and it will make it much easier.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,022
Likes: 3
From: Chandler Arizona
i was thinking of just purchasing a set of 30# injectors. I hear the stock ECU should be able to "adjust" for injectors that are about 20% larger. the 30# would be 25% larger than the stock 24#s (assuming that i have the 24# and not the 22#).
I'll have my covers off when i begin to tackle this install, i will look for the return line at that time. Thanks...
just to be safe, i was going to run the MSD BTM at 2 or 3 degrees retard be pound of boost.
Plus, i am only going to run the 3.33" pulley.
I'll have my covers off when i begin to tackle this install, i will look for the return line at that time. Thanks...
just to be safe, i was going to run the MSD BTM at 2 or 3 degrees retard be pound of boost.
Plus, i am only going to run the 3.33" pulley.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,283
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
Your car came stock with 22's. 94's and up had the 24's. I would stay with the 24's and the FMU, otherwise you will have to have chip burned to use the 30's. How much boost are you planning. Wouldn't go to much more than 6psi with stock motor.
Last edited by BAM92; May 13, 2008 at 06:51 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
If you swap out your injectors you need to get your ECU reprogrammed.
Yes it will adjust some, but it doesn't do that at WOT. Which means that you'll be running really rich. About 25% or so.
Now throw in the fact that you are using a FMU which is calibrated for much smaller injectors and you are running SUPER rich. You can get a different disk for the FMU that will help with this.
Its a really good idea to get these things dyno tuned after you install a supercharger anyways. They can program in the correct injector size, then you can upgrade your injectors to 42# and get rid of the FMU all together. It will be much safer in the long run. You also don't have to mess with the BTM as well.
Yes it will adjust some, but it doesn't do that at WOT. Which means that you'll be running really rich. About 25% or so.
Now throw in the fact that you are using a FMU which is calibrated for much smaller injectors and you are running SUPER rich. You can get a different disk for the FMU that will help with this.
Its a really good idea to get these things dyno tuned after you install a supercharger anyways. They can program in the correct injector size, then you can upgrade your injectors to 42# and get rid of the FMU all together. It will be much safer in the long run. You also don't have to mess with the BTM as well.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,022
Likes: 3
From: Chandler Arizona
well, i just purchased the btm. I thought it was a nice unit to have. Without the BTM, i would have to run constant ignition retard. I just figured that the btm would allow me to run factory timing when out of boost, and retard the timing accordingly. The fmu (i also "just" purchased). I figured i would only be at about 6psi for the time being anyway. Thus allowing me to stay with the 22# injectors.
if i jump to 30# i would just get the relating FMU disc (i.e. 8:1 or 6:1)
i think with the amount of dyno time and cost of burning a chip, this would have been the "cheaper" route.
Should i start hunting for 24# injectors, or will the 22#'s be okay with fmu and the 6-8psi range?
I plan to take it over to chandler (good diagnostic shop out there) to have it dynoed after the install anyway.
if i jump to 30# i would just get the relating FMU disc (i.e. 8:1 or 6:1)
i think with the amount of dyno time and cost of burning a chip, this would have been the "cheaper" route.
Should i start hunting for 24# injectors, or will the 22#'s be okay with fmu and the 6-8psi range?
I plan to take it over to chandler (good diagnostic shop out there) to have it dynoed after the install anyway.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 745
Likes: 0
From: New Hyde Park Long Island New York
curious to know a few things regarding the LT1 vortech kit install...
the kit lists fuel injectors for the lt1 vortech supercharger kit. I am not sure why they supply 24# injectors when the LT1 comes with 24# injectors stock?
Should I bypass the coolant line to the throttle body as i install the supercharger? I was just thinking that keeping any additional heat away from the intake track (including hot coolant flowing through the TB) would be a good idea.
does anyone have a picture of the fuel line that needs to be disconnected to re-route to the FMU? I know it's the "return line" that needs to be disconnected, but which one is the return line? is it the one with the "funky looking disc" intigrated into the line, or is it the "plane" one. Sorry for the lack of technical terms.
the kit lists fuel injectors for the lt1 vortech supercharger kit. I am not sure why they supply 24# injectors when the LT1 comes with 24# injectors stock?
Should I bypass the coolant line to the throttle body as i install the supercharger? I was just thinking that keeping any additional heat away from the intake track (including hot coolant flowing through the TB) would be a good idea.
does anyone have a picture of the fuel line that needs to be disconnected to re-route to the FMU? I know it's the "return line" that needs to be disconnected, but which one is the return line? is it the one with the "funky looking disc" intigrated into the line, or is it the "plane" one. Sorry for the lack of technical terms.
injectors think of you overall plan. if you think you are going to modify the motor in the future ( cam/head, 383 or larger) go for 30 or 42 lbs injector. don't use the fmu and get your car dyno tuned by some with knowlege in supercharging.
give greg at blower works a call he will send you down the right path.
you can check out the specs on my car
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2024083
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