C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

If you haven't then do it

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Old May 13, 2008 | 09:57 PM
  #1  
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Default If you haven't then do it

If you haven't replaced your plugs DO IT....... I had a bad plug and didn't know it. I've been running rough for so long and didn't realize until I pulled them to replace them. I went from Platinum +4 to just NGK V-power and it was the best $24 I've spent so far.

Just a little reminder if you haven't pulled your plugs DO IT.....
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Old May 14, 2008 | 08:18 AM
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So you were running on 7 cylinders and didn't know it?
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Old May 14, 2008 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by TA
So you were running on 7 cylinders and didn't know it?
That's sort of hard to believe
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Old May 14, 2008 | 10:44 AM
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Fun to change the plugs....weren't they?
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Old May 14, 2008 | 10:45 AM
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I've changed plugs 3 times in the last year
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Old May 14, 2008 | 10:48 AM
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The dreaded platinum puck disease again.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 12:56 PM
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I second that motion. A few years back, my platinum pucks had fallen off, creating a condition of very large gaps in all the plugs. The contacts on my Opti burned out within several months, resulting in expensive repairs.

Don't let this happen to you!
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Old May 14, 2008 | 01:06 PM
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unless bosch has made changes, plus 4's don't have 'pucks'
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Old May 14, 2008 | 01:20 PM
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I like to swap plugs once a year. I enjoy the practice. I use the cheaper NGK's and they work great.

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Old May 14, 2008 | 02:03 PM
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We people with the early C4's are lucky as the plugs are pretty easy to change. I know the later ones are a real pain in the azz.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 08:36 PM
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Though I've changed them on the Vette (because I was replacing the heads and the only way I know to get the plug torque right is with the heads off). I've never had a plug go bad on any fuel injected motor. My longest running was the 4.3 in my truck, which was still running the factory install at a 120,000 and change when totalled. Notably, it's mileage increased at 70,000. If you have a bad plug, it's usually symptomatic of something else (like installing them wrong). Otherwise, design keeps them firing for allmost ever. I'd scan it to check fuel delivery first - and if one was bad, at least take a vacuum read and then check compression.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by SunCr
Though I've changed them on the Vette (because I was replacing the heads and the only way I know to get the plug torque right is with the heads off). I've never had a plug go bad on any fuel injected motor. My longest running was the 4.3 in my truck, which was still running the factory install at a 120,000 and change when totalled. Notably, it's mileage increased at 70,000. If you have a bad plug, it's usually symptomatic of something else (like installing them wrong). Otherwise, design keeps them firing for allmost ever. I'd scan it to check fuel delivery first - and if one was bad, at least take a vacuum read and then check compression.
I had good luck running NGK-V powers on my highly modded bikes, including my last one, a six cylinder Mr.Turbo Kawasaki. Quality was obviously/visually good compared to other plug makes, and price was reasonable, esp. in bulk purchases. On other well known makes, I would have at least one, or two, in a box of 10 plugs that would foul-out almost immediately. That would never happen with equivelant NGK's.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 11:36 PM
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If plugs foul - oil or fuel - on a modern, fuel injected motor - you've got something else going on.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 11:46 PM
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i started reading this and was thinking how hard can it be?
then saw everyone with problems have lt1 or lt4
L98 spark cahnge FTW
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Old May 14, 2008 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 383tpimachine
i started reading this and was thinking how hard can it be?
then saw everyone with problems have lt1 or lt4
L98 spark cahnge FTW
For sure, L98's are tough - I had to take out the middle and rear portions of the front right wheel well for the #2 plug. It was dumb to start with 1,3,5,7 because they were SO easy compared to the other side (passenger) and gave me false confidence.

You will need a good 3/4 ratchet, some 3/4 extensions, a good 3/4 swivel, magnetic 5/8 spark plug socket, and plenty of anti-seize and wire boot lube. Gap to 0.35" (for the 91 L98 anyways). I went with the stock Ac/Delco RapidFires and got 1.6 mpg more highway with a limp tranny, throttle response seemed better too, but that may just be in my mind. And be patient and hand thread or turn the socket by hand to avoid cross-threading. The ground and central electrodes still looked good on the stock ones removed.

Jonathan
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Old May 15, 2008 | 12:15 AM
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Hey,
Catch a 'Snap-On' truck and get one of their spark-plug swivel tools.
It is made with the plug socket, a swivel(made like an impact swivel, ball end with groove, etc.) and extension; All made into one 3/8" tool!
They are a little pricey but well worth it on a Vette.
Take Care and Be Safe, -John
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Old May 15, 2008 | 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SunCr
If plugs foul - oil or fuel - on a modern, fuel injected motor - you've got something else going on.
Granted - except my hi-po bikes weren't/aren't FI! My point is, that with a number of different engines the NGK's proved to be a quality plug, while others would always have a significant percentage, even when brand new/out of the box, that would be 'bum' on the exact same motors. Of course, this was before the era(25-35 years ago) of the newer platinum/iridium/unobtanium spark plugs?!
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