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If you haven't replaced your plugs DO IT....... I had a bad plug and didn't know it. I've been running rough for so long and didn't realize until I pulled them to replace them. I went from Platinum +4 to just NGK V-power and it was the best $24 I've spent so far.
Just a little reminder if you haven't pulled your plugs DO IT.....
I second that motion. A few years back, my platinum pucks had fallen off, creating a condition of very large gaps in all the plugs. The contacts on my Opti burned out within several months, resulting in expensive repairs.
Though I've changed them on the Vette (because I was replacing the heads and the only way I know to get the plug torque right is with the heads off). I've never had a plug go bad on any fuel injected motor. My longest running was the 4.3 in my truck, which was still running the factory install at a 120,000 and change when totalled. Notably, it's mileage increased at 70,000. If you have a bad plug, it's usually symptomatic of something else (like installing them wrong). Otherwise, design keeps them firing for allmost ever. I'd scan it to check fuel delivery first - and if one was bad, at least take a vacuum read and then check compression.
Though I've changed them on the Vette (because I was replacing the heads and the only way I know to get the plug torque right is with the heads off). I've never had a plug go bad on any fuel injected motor. My longest running was the 4.3 in my truck, which was still running the factory install at a 120,000 and change when totalled. Notably, it's mileage increased at 70,000. If you have a bad plug, it's usually symptomatic of something else (like installing them wrong). Otherwise, design keeps them firing for allmost ever. I'd scan it to check fuel delivery first - and if one was bad, at least take a vacuum read and then check compression.
I had good luck running NGK-V powers on my highly modded bikes, including my last one, a six cylinder Mr.Turbo Kawasaki. Quality was obviously/visually good compared to other plug makes, and price was reasonable, esp. in bulk purchases. On other well known makes, I would have at least one, or two, in a box of 10 plugs that would foul-out almost immediately. That would never happen with equivelant NGK's.
i started reading this and was thinking how hard can it be?
then saw everyone with problems have lt1 or lt4
L98 spark cahnge FTW
For sure, L98's are tough - I had to take out the middle and rear portions of the front right wheel well for the #2 plug. It was dumb to start with 1,3,5,7 because they were SO easy compared to the other side (passenger) and gave me false confidence.
You will need a good 3/4 ratchet, some 3/4 extensions, a good 3/4 swivel, magnetic 5/8 spark plug socket, and plenty of anti-seize and wire boot lube. Gap to 0.35" (for the 91 L98 anyways). I went with the stock Ac/Delco RapidFires and got 1.6 mpg more highway with a limp tranny, throttle response seemed better too, but that may just be in my mind. And be patient and hand thread or turn the socket by hand to avoid cross-threading. The ground and central electrodes still looked good on the stock ones removed.
Hey,
Catch a 'Snap-On' truck and get one of their spark-plug swivel tools.
It is made with the plug socket, a swivel(made like an impact swivel, ball end with groove, etc.) and extension; All made into one 3/8" tool!
They are a little pricey but well worth it on a Vette.
Take Care and Be Safe, -John
If plugs foul - oil or fuel - on a modern, fuel injected motor - you've got something else going on.
Granted - except my hi-po bikes weren't/aren't FI! My point is, that with a number of different engines the NGK's proved to be a quality plug, while others would always have a significant percentage, even when brand new/out of the box, that would be 'bum' on the exact same motors. Of course, this was before the era(25-35 years ago) of the newer platinum/iridium/unobtanium spark plugs?!