I would still check to see if your battery cables are tight. A bad battery connection and/or a bad ground could cause all this mess. Also check to see if those red wires right near the battery are all intact. Check to see if that hex nut is tight right where the junction is. Hopefully there are no shorts there. Old insulation could get stripped out there from old age.

 

Hello,
I understand that your CAR is a 1985. I read that you are installing an LT-1 engine in it and the Dist was moved.
First, I would say that this could be the problem, but I doubt it. On My newer Suburban, you can remove the dist and set the engine to TD C, then install the dist, wire it right and it will not run unless the dist is sync'ed with the other sensors on the newer motors/electronics. Like I said, I don't think that this is the problem but could have an influence.
I think the Vats system is the issue. The entire electronic deal that you switched over to this earlier car(computer mainly) has a Vats(or other name(s) newer system) in it. Vats will keep a car from cranking and or getting fuel, based on year etc.. I have seen cars in the year-range where you got your motor and computer/harness, that you could not replace the ECM without it being 'flashed' to the 'car etc.'.
I have a strange feeling that this is the biggest problem with your combo. Have you added any resistors or 'piggy-backed' any of the parts(ignition switch(or OHMS equiv.) or aftermarket subsitutes) etc.?
I am not saying this is exactly the 'crank' problem but I feel certain that it either has something to do with the cranking/starting problem. (or it WILL prior to ever getting this project going).
Take Care and Good Luck, -John

 

Preparing to start the motor this morning, pulled the plugs and turned the engine by hand to get compression on #1 and lined up timing mark. Installed plugs. Primed oil pump for 10 minutes to be sure that I had oil to everything.

Hooked four wire plug from distributor to its mate and dropped in the distributor. Everything lines up where I want the rotor to be to fire on #1. Installed the plugs into the distributor. Connected the negative battery cable. EVERYTHING STILL DARK. No electrical power still. No clicks, lights anywhere.

Took jfb suggestion and disconnected the positive battery cable (disconnected the neg first) then installed the negative cable. Pulled the plug with the red (hot) wire from the distributor. Placed a jumper in this plug and ran the test meter between this jumper and the positive battery terminal. Reading of 12.84 volts. If I understand jfb correctly this indicates that the fusible link is toast.

Anyone know where this link is on the 1985?

 

Does the key have to be 'ON' when you do this test?

 

The fusable links are near the bottom of the battery. You have to take off the fender. PM me maybe a feash pair of eye can look at it.

 

Hey...double checked everything right, left, up and down. No change. Tried jfb's test, searched fusible links, checked all wires around starter etc....nothing. Tried jfb's test again just to be sure I didn't screw anything up. Same results.........Then I connected the positive cable back to the battery (only did this several times in the last 24 hours) and all power was restored.

It had to by my prayers to the Corvette Gods and promises to delete the cat for good, 3" pipes and to polish the SR plenum.

Turned the distrubutor a little and it fired up. Twisted it more and she started to run smoother. She is alive.

THANKS TO ALL FOR YOU THOUGHTS AND SUGGESTIONS.

John

 

 

So we don't know diddly?

 

I just wish I could point to a wire or fuse and say that is it. It must have been something with the + cable, but had that on and off mutliple times and cable connections were clean as was battery.