This can't be good...
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: North West PA
Thanks Rayosequys! From my understanding of the LT1, it's batch fired left and right banks. Also, it's wired in series, back to front. Having done a little electrical work in the past, that would say to me that if the back aren't working, the front shouldn't be either. Now, let me point out that I'm no LT1 expert, but I'm trying to deduce as much as I can so that I'm prepared when I get back to the car. I'm not upsed at all about anyone's input, since nearly everyone has a valid thought at some point in their lives. When I asked for input on the problem, I was asking for everyone's, and at this point I can't say for certain that anyone's wrong.
Anyway, I'm going to nip down to the fridge for another beer, cheers!
Anyway, I'm going to nip down to the fridge for another beer, cheers!
Race Director
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From: Canton GA
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St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'10-'11-'12
:bb I'm sorry, I didn't realize you were a distance from your car. That does make troubleshooting a little more difficult, doesn't it? 
I'm just one that has a problem believing half of your injectors went bad at the same time. Good luck though! Let us know what you find!
I'm just one that has a problem believing half of your injectors went bad at the same time. Good luck though! Let us know what you find!
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
I didn't know about the mileage either.
Still, the FIRST/NEXT thing to do is swap the front four injectors and the rear four injectors. As a matter of fact, you can even before that, test for current TO the injectors.
If you buy a set in the meantime to take with you, no problem, as long as you can return them when you find the result of the front/rear 4x4 injector swap.
Buying parts blindly is a pandemic disease. But I won't stop anyone - I have quite a few $$$ in parts retailers' index funds. And they are doin' fairly well.
Still, the FIRST/NEXT thing to do is swap the front four injectors and the rear four injectors. As a matter of fact, you can even before that, test for current TO the injectors.
If you buy a set in the meantime to take with you, no problem, as long as you can return them when you find the result of the front/rear 4x4 injector swap.
Buying parts blindly is a pandemic disease. But I won't stop anyone - I have quite a few $$$ in parts retailers' index funds. And they are doin' fairly well.
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: edison nj
I had the same exact problem with my 91. i have the tpi setup though. i threw just about everything at it. and all in all it ended up being the computer. im not to familiar with the lt1 setup, i started with plugs wires cap, rotor, ign mod and coil, fuel pump, then injectors. i was ready to take a long drive off a short pier. i could disconnect 4 injectors and the car ran the same it had a slight miss and ran like garbage. the comp for my vette was a 180, and now she runs like a bat out off hell. how long was you car sitting for? mine sat for a long time. i think i had moisture build up from sitting to long and that shorted her out. i know the engines are completely different ,its a shot in the dark, but that fixed my problems. good luck brother.
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: North West PA
I've heard the same thing from a friend of mine with a '90 vert. His comp took a dump and he took a while to find out that that's what it was. I'm not discounting anything at this point, but the more I read and go over the wiring diagram's, the more I'm forced into thinking it's the injectors.
I am, however, right there with a few other people who have posted. Why those injectors, and why all of the sudden? Ah well, the worst that can happen is I have a brand new set of injectors in my car, and a couple more days to search out the real problem if that happens not to be it. Cross your fingers that that's the problem, I know I am. I was thinking of taking pictures of the entire injector changing process, but I can't see as anyone would be interested in a how-to for something that simple.
It's beer time where I'm at, so I'm going to go assualt my fridge before anyone can tell me no.
I am, however, right there with a few other people who have posted. Why those injectors, and why all of the sudden? Ah well, the worst that can happen is I have a brand new set of injectors in my car, and a couple more days to search out the real problem if that happens not to be it. Cross your fingers that that's the problem, I know I am. I was thinking of taking pictures of the entire injector changing process, but I can't see as anyone would be interested in a how-to for something that simple.
It's beer time where I'm at, so I'm going to go assualt my fridge before anyone can tell me no.
Cruising
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From: edison nj
i was having tons of different problems, my fuel pressure was low, so there was the fuel pump, cap and rotor contacts were corroded. with everything apart i decided to change the coil and module just in case. i didnt want to have to go back and replace them again. then i had 2 bad injectors. they were ohming out really low. ya have to take the plenum off to change the injectors so again i changed them all. my vette sat for a few years before i bought it. i atually need new tires too.they are a lil out of round from being low on air for so long. thats next. so much for buying a car with realy low miles. i probably could have gotten away with not changing everything but id rather be safe then sorry.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Orlando FL
Don’t have my FSM here at this time but I believe each back, left and right are fused independently of each other. I would just check that first. You can also check for 12 volts on the dead injectors to verify. If there is power on them then they are not being grounded to fire thru the ECM.
If there is power, I would then test with a node light to verify injector non-operation. If injectors are not firing, look for a bad connector/connection somewhere. I suppose a possible cause could be the ECM which would be unfortunate.
It is not an opti problem if half the injectors are not working.
If there is power, I would then test with a node light to verify injector non-operation. If injectors are not firing, look for a bad connector/connection somewhere. I suppose a possible cause could be the ECM which would be unfortunate.
It is not an opti problem if half the injectors are not working.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: North West PA
The verdict is in!! The injectors were indeed, bad. Well, bad is putting it mildly. They were so trashed, I'm suprised the car would even start up. The tops were rusted, the filter baskets were pretty much full of gunk, it was pretty awfull. But, after the new injectors went in place, the car runs better than it has since I purchased it. I'm one happy camper....New paint looks fantastic as well.
Thanks again for everyone's help!
Thanks again for everyone's help!
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
The verdict is in!! The injectors were indeed, bad. Well, bad is putting it mildly. They were so trashed, I'm suprised the car would even start up. The tops were rusted, the filter baskets were pretty much full of gunk, it was pretty awfull. But, after the new injectors went in place, the car runs better than it has since I purchased it. I'm one happy camper....New paint looks fantastic as well.
Thanks again for everyone's help!
Thanks again for everyone's help!
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 70
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From: North West PA
Filter baskets, in the top of each injector. Not sure what else to call it. I took the time to remove one from one of the old injectors just to see what it looked like, other than being plugged up and corroded. It appears to be a little plastic chumpie with awfully fine wire mesh wrapped around it, shaped like a little upside down cone. I guess it's the last line of defense before the gunk gets into the moving parts down in the injector body. Maybe Jon over at FICinjectors can chime in here in case I got the terminology wrong.
By the way, Thank you Jon, the injectors went in perfectly and appear to be liking their new home. Incidentally, I normally averaged around 28-29 mpg on the highway, and on the way home, I was hitting 30-31.5 at 73mph in 6th.
By the way, Thank you Jon, the injectors went in perfectly and appear to be liking their new home. Incidentally, I normally averaged around 28-29 mpg on the highway, and on the way home, I was hitting 30-31.5 at 73mph in 6th.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Cumming Ga
Filter baskets, in the top of each injector. Not sure what else to call it. I took the time to remove one from one of the old injectors just to see what it looked like, other than being plugged up and corroded. It appears to be a little plastic chumpie with awfully fine wire mesh wrapped around it, shaped like a little upside down cone. I guess it's the last line of defense before the gunk gets into the moving parts down in the injector body. Maybe Jon over at FICinjectors can chime in here in case I got the terminology wrong.
By the way, Thank you Jon, the injectors went in perfectly and appear to be liking their new home. Incidentally, I normally averaged around 28-29 mpg on the highway, and on the way home, I was hitting 30-31.5 at 73mph in 6th.
By the way, Thank you Jon, the injectors went in perfectly and appear to be liking their new home. Incidentally, I normally averaged around 28-29 mpg on the highway, and on the way home, I was hitting 30-31.5 at 73mph in 6th.
Safety Car
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
'94 (LT1)I have mine in pulled right now
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2033363
just for housecleanin' only. All's well, except for a tiny V/C leak.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Cumming Ga
How do the screens come out? '94 (LT1)
I have mine in pulled right now
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2033363
just for housecleanin' only. All's well, except for a tiny V/C leak.
'94 (LT1)I have mine in pulled right now
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2033363
just for housecleanin' only. All's well, except for a tiny V/C leak.
heres the kit.
http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...d&productId=97
to get the filter out we use a special tool.
however, you can take a drywall screw (course thread) and put it in a vice by the head. screw the injector filter onto the screw about 3/8 inch in. then pull. The filter will come out. then tap the new one in with a small ball peen. crude but it works.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
we sell the kits to do this your self. The only thing you can't do is save the multecs life. But, you might be able to prolong it.
heres the kit.
http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...d&productId=97
to get the filter out we use a special tool.
however, you can take a drywall screw (course thread) and put it in a vice by the head. screw the injector filter onto the screw about 3/8 inch in. then pull. The filter will come out. then tap the new one in with a small ball peen. crude but it works.
heres the kit.
http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...d&productId=97
to get the filter out we use a special tool.
however, you can take a drywall screw (course thread) and put it in a vice by the head. screw the injector filter onto the screw about 3/8 inch in. then pull. The filter will come out. then tap the new one in with a small ball peen. crude but it works.
I'll pull mine, and see how they look........................
ed.: Is the brass-lookin' lip not exposed? Or is it pushed all the way with in the injector body?
It kinda' looks like the mount surface for the 0-ring itself...
Last edited by schrade; May 27, 2008 at 12:33 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Cumming Ga
the brass tip goes into the injector, when installed it is flush with the top of the inlet surface. the diameter of the filter is 3/16" lenght is 1/2"