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I am rebuilding my 85 and putting in a carb setup. I have been told that the stock in-tank pump will be fine with a regulator. I have also been told that the fuel pump will not run right after I remove the ecm. What can I do to fix this problem.
I just left mine in, didn't see any reason to remove it.. pump works fine off of the oil pressure switch. I would have used a mechanical pump but u cant physically bolt one on.
I just left mine in, didn't see any reason to remove it.. pump works fine off of the oil pressure switch. I would have used a mechanical pump but u cant physically bolt one on.
I can, but I use a regulator instead + a fuel pressure gauge nere the carb
I just left mine in, didn't see any reason to remove it.. pump works fine off of the oil pressure switch. I would have used a mechanical pump but u cant physically bolt one on.
I left mine in also..But I had to wire a keyed source to the stock F/P inorder to keep it running..It won't run without that..And I'll be darn if I can find what wire to key..Can anyone help This new "Dark Sider"...Mines Indisposed right now so I can't look for him...
Way too much rubber hose to pass tech inspection, it's considered unsafe. I have my regulator hooked up in a similar fashion except with less hose, and I used steel braided -6an line from earls. Also I ran it from the factory filter up under the blower motor to keep it far away from my headers. How would you have been able to use a mechanical pump? Did you notch the crossmember where it would hit? It could be done I suppose but my goal was not to alter the car in any way that I couldn't restore it to factory specs by simply bolting the origional parts back on. I'm still using the unaltered factory tpi harness with the wires I don't need simply zip tied and tucked away on top of the trans bellhousing.
Last edited by 86GoldProject; May 21, 2008 at 05:38 PM.
I left mine in also..But I had to wire a keyed source to the stock F/P inorder to keep it running..It won't run without that..And I'll be darn if I can find what wire to key..Can anyone help This new "Dark Sider"...Mines Indisposed right now so I can't look for him...
It will run without the pump hardwired if you use the oil pressure switch, the second it sees pressure from cranking the engine the pump starts running, starts right up everytime with a quarter of a crank. No need to hack up the factory wiring at all.
Way too much rubber hose to pass tech inspection, it's considered unsafe. I have my regulator hooked up in a similar fashion except with less hose, and I used steel braided -6an line from earls. Also I ran it from the factory filter up under the blower motor to keep it far away from my headers. How would you have been able to use a mechanical pump? Did you notch the crossmember where it would hit? It could be done I suppose but my goal was not to alter the car in any way that I couldn't restore it to factory specs by simply bolting the origional parts back on. I'm still using the unaltered factory tpi harness with the wires I don't need simply zip tied and tucked away on top of the trans bellhousing.
An NHRA tech inspector would wear out his tape measure on that installation.
RACE ON!!!
And that means?
NHRA rules allow for a TOTAL of 12 inches of rubber fuel line on the car, in total. That includes the stock hoses at the fuel tank and the flex hoses between the frame and the engine. They measure each piece of rubber hose on the car and add then all up. You are allowed twelve inches, total for the whole car, added piece by piece.
Men are map makers so they can make 1" equal a mile.
You can always get one of these and drop it into your tank.
I also use a Aeromotive fuel controler.
Last edited by REDC4CORVETTE; May 21, 2008 at 07:09 PM.
a fuel pump block off plate wouldn't allow you to run a mechanical pump, all it would do is block off the boss that a mechanical pump bolts to. It wouldn't solve the crossmember interfearance problem at all.