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There are several things to check and what it could be. I’m assuming the blower fan runs OK.
Check the A/C clutch fuse first, 10 amp.
Check the A/C cycling switch for continuity and to see if connections are not corroded and tight.
Check the A/C clutch relay near inner wheel well passenger side under a bunch of hoses.
Check connector and connectors on PCM.
Check to see if there is any voltage on green wire at the clutch connector.
Although possible, its unlikely the C68 controller is defective. However it can be remotely checked by measuring the resistance on the dark blue wire at the cycling switch when A/C is selected and engine is running. Remove connector and you are looking for continuity to ground which the programmer makes.
Not a good idea to add Freon if the compressor is not turning. The static pressure is probably 90 to 110 lbs (on the low side), where when the compressor is running it is 25 to 45 lb. Your Freon can could probably not push it in there under that higher pressure and could go in reverse.
Help...This 94 is my 1st Corvette,had it almost 2 years. Now with summer almost here the A/C 's not working. My A/C compressor clutch does not engage. Normally if the system is low on R134 the clutch would click on and off. It did not make any difference when I tried to put in more R134 and gauge showed normal pressure (engine running and A/C switch on). Dashboard shows no warning lights.Anyone knows the problem and if this is a cheap or expensive fix?
From reading the forum there are many helpful knowledgeable owners.
Thanks,
Hank
Feel your pain Hank....make a long story short. This A/C stuff is highly specialized & mistakes can be expensive.(like the stock market) Let a professional A/C type look at it! You'll have to define "cheap or expensive" that's relative. Agree 120% regarding the forums invaluable knowledge bank. At best you'll be better educated when your A/C guy debriefs you on the problem. Important..your Denso compressor should read as follows:
low 22-29psi & high 165-200psi running, factory specs.
Cheers
Check your 6
"You got to know your limitations!", Clint E.
Last edited by jim_hewett; May 23, 2008 at 07:07 AM.
Feel your pain Hank....make a long story short. This A/C stuff is highly specialized & mistakes can be expensive.(like the stock market) Let a professional A/C type look at it! You'll have to define "cheap or expensive" that's relative. Agree 120% regarding the forums invaluable knowledge bank. At best you'll be better educated when your A/C guy debriefs you on the problem. Important..your Denso compressor should read as follows:
low 22-29psi & high 165-200psi running, factory specs.
Cheers
Check your 6
"You got to know your limitations!", Clint E.
Um you try running 200 psi and you will destroy the a/c, using guages the lowside on a 93 is 2.2 lbs r12 and 1.8 for r134.
There is nothing hard to do on a a/c, you just need the right tools. Get a good set of guages and do as pcolt said and you will be fine.
And if it hasn't thrown a No Gas Code - or some other HVAC Code - go here to see how you retrieve it: https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=193&TopicID=2 -
the most likely cause is an intermittent connection at the Low Pressure Switch. You might just disconnect and reconnect the Battery so that any glitches in the Programmer are erased, but your gages show enough static pressure to make it run and assuming the Pressure Signal (that Sensor is on the High Pressure Line and you'll need a scanner to see what it's sending), the compressor should start. So the only thing that can cut power to the the Compressor Relay is the Low Pressure Switch. It takes 50 psi to close the Switch Contacts (and your gages show that), so with the harness unplugged, your DVM should show a closed circuit across the Switch Terminals. Then reconnect the harness and hold it firmly onto the switch - wriggle it around and see if that gets it going. Finally, jumper the harness connector terminals with a paperclip. If any of this gets it running, buy a new connector.
Did you do the paper clip trick on the low pressure switch?
I'm new at this, sorry for my ignorance. Where's the low pressure switch located. Where does the ends of the paper clip or jumper wire touch?
Your's and "coors2003" tip sounds the easiest to start with.
I'm amazed at everyone's helpfulness.
Re: low pressure switch.
I pulled out the connector that has 3 wires.( black,tan/purple). The other connector has 1 red wire.
Which contacts and color wires of the 3 do I jump?
I just went through this on my '87. The R-4 compressor has a large 2 or 3 lip seal for the back cover. In my case, the compressor would hold a vacuum but leaked under pressure. If this is the problem, you can use a camero compressor costing much less with a simple pully swap.
You can get a kit for this compressor for around $14.00
I went through several used compressors all with the same problem.
Re: low pressure switch.
I pulled out the connector that has 3 wires.( black,tan/purple). The other connector has 1 red wire.
Which contacts and color wires of the 3 do I jump?
By the way ,thanks for the photo,great help.
Hank
email:h88quock@sbcglobal.net
I think I told you wrong.
The paper clip trick will work, but I'm not sure where the low pressure switch is to do the test trick...
Anybody? Where is the low pressure cut-out connector / switch, for him to disconnect and jump it?
I just looked at Haynes, and I don't even see a low pressure cut-out switch...
ed.:Normally if the system is low on R134 the clutch would click on and off. It did not make any difference when I tried to put in more R134 and gauge showed normal pressure (engine running and A/C switch on).
That could also be because the orifice tube filter is clogged. Not expensive. Don't go there yet, you can still jump the compressor directly to test it, after the paper clip test on the low pressure switch.