Oil catch can question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 181
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From: Boise ID
Oil catch can question
I have a couple questions about oil catch cans or crank case evacuation
1st. do you use a tank for each valve cover or does one line go to a valve cover to let air out and into the tank and the other one just goes to a vent to let air back into the motor. next does anybody know were to put the tank in an 87 with the battery in it's stock location I would love to see some pics I am thinking I will have to build a custom tank to fit it in clean
1st. do you use a tank for each valve cover or does one line go to a valve cover to let air out and into the tank and the other one just goes to a vent to let air back into the motor. next does anybody know were to put the tank in an 87 with the battery in it's stock location I would love to see some pics I am thinking I will have to build a custom tank to fit it in clean
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
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From: Australia
Usual setup is hose(s) from valve cover to catch can which is vented to open air through a breather.
Same as running open breather on valve covers but allows some where for the oil to collect instead of all over engine
Same as running open breather on valve covers but allows some where for the oil to collect instead of all over engine
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 181
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From: Boise ID
Thank you for the info. has anybody used any of the catch cans on ebay? the go for like $10 $100 for aluminum ones but they look like they only have a place for 2 hoses and no holes for venting. I am getting a little nervous about buying stuff on ebay 2 things I bought off ebay went bad this weekend my rack went bad and my Walbro fuel pump went bad but the price on the ebay catch cans make them tempting
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
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From: Australia
I would say $100 is too much
Can get one from Summit
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Oil catch can must have breather to work
Can get one from Summit
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Oil catch can must have breather to work
Last edited by rodj; May 27, 2008 at 02:19 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: WI
I wasn't using my air compressor so put the water/oil filter on the car. It did catch some oil but then really not a whole lot. After my last track event I thought there would be a lot in there but the level stayed about the same. I took the passenger line off and ran a tissue into it, I did not find much oil there so decided the passenger side line does not need a can. It's easy to plumb, here is a picture.
The filter can was only $15.
The filter can was only $15.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,713
Likes: 105
From: Manassas VA
Basically there are 2 different types of catch cans.
1. being the one ROJI refers too. it ties into a valve cover with a hose, goes into the catch can and seperates the oil from the air and then breathes to the atmosphere.
2. the other style goes between the pcv valve and the vacuum source . This is a sealed system and is designed to keep oil out of the intake.
So depending on the use of the catch can will determine weather it has 1 or 2 hoses and if it has a breather on it.
Hope this helps!!
1. being the one ROJI refers too. it ties into a valve cover with a hose, goes into the catch can and seperates the oil from the air and then breathes to the atmosphere.
2. the other style goes between the pcv valve and the vacuum source . This is a sealed system and is designed to keep oil out of the intake.
So depending on the use of the catch can will determine weather it has 1 or 2 hoses and if it has a breather on it.
Hope this helps!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
I wasn't using my air compressor so put the water/oil filter on the car. It did catch some oil but then really not a whole lot. After my last track event I thought there would be a lot in there but the level stayed about the same. I took the passenger line off and ran a tissue into it, I did not find much oil there so decided the passenger side line does not need a can. It's easy to plumb, here is a picture.
The filter can was only $15.
The filter can was only $15.
As the valve is spring loaded shut , normally opens with vac, it would only be venting with higher crank pressures
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,713
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From: Manassas VA
Its not that one is better, its they are doing to different things.
The ones tied to the pvc are being used to keep oil out of the intake, so it is not burned.
The others are releiving pressure in the engine valve covers, oil pan etc, which is created by blowby from the cylinders.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
Its not that one is better, its they are doing to different things.
The ones tied to the pvc are being used to keep oil out of the intake, so it is not burned.
The others are releiving pressure in the engine valve covers, oil pan etc, which is created by blowby from the cylinders.
The ones tied to the pvc are being used to keep oil out of the intake, so it is not burned.
The others are releiving pressure in the engine valve covers, oil pan etc, which is created by blowby from the cylinders.
typically 14 -18".When not hooked to a vac source as intended it is possibly not opening at all.
Hi-po or race setups use the open breather setup because there is little vac when reving which is when there is the most turbulence in the engine.
Same setup as the old style open breather ; can just stops oil from covering your engine
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Boise ID
Ok this is my plan I am looking for feedback so shoot holes in it as much as you want. I am running the edelbroch signature series valve covers and TPIS headers so my space is limited. I plan to take the baffles out of the valve covers put 1 1/4 inch pipe threads in the valve covers thread in a 1 1/4 inch male x 3/4 female thread aluminum bushing in each cover use a 3/4 male thread X -16 AN fitting run 3/4" hoses from the -16 AN fittings under the brake booster to that little area between the frame and headers by the drivers floor custom build an aluminum tank with a drain in the bottom 2- 3/4 " female bungs in the top with 3/4" hose barbs 1- ( I don't know what size I don't have a filter yet) female bung in the top for a small k&n breather filter. My concern is that the tank will be so low that any oil that gets in the 3/4" line will go directly into the tank and not have time to gravity drain back into the motor. what do you guys think good idea or bad?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,713
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From: Manassas VA
A couple of things, 1. run the tubes to the bottom of the tank so it will give time and distance for the oil to seperate from the air and not blow oil out the breather. 2. I dont think you need to set up an oil return. I think you just let it accumulate a little while in the tank, then drain and dispose.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Manassas VA
Aaron, the only reason I know of, (and why I may add one to my first car in signature) is its a bandaid for a blowby situation until I can rebuild the motor.
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Instructor
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From: Boise ID
If by FI you mean fuel injected yes I am ( Mini Ram)
This is a new 383 ( less than 200 miles ) with a mini ram if I bring it up higher than 6K rpm it will push the dipstick out of the tube a little so yes I am getting too much pressure in the crank case. The biggest reason is that I have had 2 people tell me that it would release some horse power one of those guys was the guy that did the dyno tune and the other was a company called Kimball Motorsports he took a ride in the car then looked at the motor and said you need an evac system on this car
This is a new 383 ( less than 200 miles ) with a mini ram if I bring it up higher than 6K rpm it will push the dipstick out of the tube a little so yes I am getting too much pressure in the crank case. The biggest reason is that I have had 2 people tell me that it would release some horse power one of those guys was the guy that did the dyno tune and the other was a company called Kimball Motorsports he took a ride in the car then looked at the motor and said you need an evac system on this car
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,713
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From: Manassas VA
I would think something about like that. You may want to try and look at a factory built tank such as the one jodj referenced in the above post.
I think what Aaron was referring to with (FI) was forced induction, ie. supercharged or turbocharged.
Talk to others such as Aaron, but IMO you should not be getting blow by on a street motor unless the rings have not seated properly or some other internal problem with the motor. The reason I have blow by is 110,000 miles and a lot of hard passes on that. But again, talk to others, but you should not be having blow by on a street motor.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Boise ID
this is a street motor but a little on the wild side and I doubt the rings are seated yet if I could stop beating the crap out of it everytime I drive it they would probably seat faster. Also I used Mahle pistons with 26 thousanths ring gap clearance for a 125 NOS shot. the motor had about 120 miles on it before it sat at a body shop for 3 months getting started and idled for 30 seconds to move it twice a day so I'm sure that they are not seated yet. the 120 miles came from 8 dyno runs and the rest were mostly full throttle 6k shifts but I can't help it this thing is just to fun to beat the crap out of . So when I am back on here in a couple months crying because the motor popped just tell me to shut up. the next couple times I drive it I will be a good boy and be nice to it I kind of promise. I think I will buy one of those $20 ones off ebay and cut it open to find out how to make one