C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

A/C question.

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Old May 27, 2008 | 08:46 AM
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Default A/C question.

My a/c blows ice cold all the time - everything seems to work fine. Except when it gets real hot out. Like 95+, 140 closed inside kinda hot. When it gets real hot the a/c will blow cold for a few moments and then I will hear a click or pop sound - just once - and then it will blow heat out. Not the fan blowing natural hot summer air - I mean heated air.

Anyone familiar with this? May have an idea what is occuring here?

95 stock.

Thank you. E
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Old May 27, 2008 | 10:59 AM
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Might be on the edge of being to low on freon. As soon as the computer detects a certain low pressure it shuts off. Maybe the computer didn´t detect "low pressure" when it was colder. Checked for codes in the acc screen (where you read the temp) or do you have the manual ac? Auto ac; press and hold the temp up/down switches for 6 sec. then press the fan switch (1991) and you should get codes. -00 means everything OK.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by vette079
Might be on the edge of being to low on freon. As soon as the computer detects a certain low pressure it shuts off. Maybe the computer didn´t detect "low pressure" when it was colder. Checked for codes in the acc screen (where you read the temp) or do you have the manual ac? Auto ac; press and hold the temp up/down switches for 6 sec. then press the fan switch (1991) and you should get codes. -00 means everything OK.
Thanks for the response. Yes, auto a/c. I tried what you said to get the codes and it did not give any codes. Then I held the fan up and down buttons (instead of the temp up and down buttons) and, without hitting the fan button, it stated -00. Sounds like I got their but in a different way perhaps?

So I guess I should go to my mechanic with this info huh?

Thanks. E
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Old May 27, 2008 | 11:54 AM
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I’m assuming you have the C68 auto control unit rather than the manual.

With the problem happening, check to see if the compressor is turning and cycling. Then check the accumulator and fat line to the evaporator by touching them. If they are cold, the freon portion of the A/C is working OK. If it is really blowing hot air it sounds like the heat actually came on and there could be a blend door related problem selecting the air from the heater core rather than the evaporator unit.

If that’s the case or what ever result you get, post it for further assistance. Finding out some basics might help you fix it or be more knowledgeable if you have to go to a shop. There are other things you can check but have to know these results first so don’t send you off in a wrong direction or waste time.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 12:14 PM
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There are several safety devices on an AC system.

One of them will shut the AC down if the high-side pressure goes too high.
One thing that can cause the high-side pressure to go too high is blockage in front of the radiator/condenser assembly.
The C4 is notorious for accumulating debris in front of the radiator/condenser.

I would check to see if there is junk accumulated in front of the radiator.

Tom Piper
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Old May 27, 2008 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by vette079
Might be on the edge of being to low on freon. As soon as the computer detects a certain low pressure it shuts off. Maybe the computer didn´t detect "low pressure" when it was colder. Checked for codes in the acc screen (where you read the temp) or do you have the manual ac? Auto ac; press and hold the temp up/down switches for 6 sec. then press the fan switch (1991) and you should get codes. -00 means everything OK.
But does it then turn on the HEAT???

OP says it's not just fresh air, but HEAT.

You sure about that, OP?
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Old May 27, 2008 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by schrade
But does it then turn on the HEAT???

OP says it's not just fresh air, but HEAT.

You sure about that, OP?
Good point, that is what he said.

If that is the case, I would suspect a failure in the vent controllers.


Tom Piper
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Old May 27, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by OceanVette
Thanks for the response. Yes, auto a/c. I tried what you said to get the codes and it did not give any codes. Then I held the fan up and down buttons (instead of the temp up and down buttons) and, without hitting the fan button, it stated -00. Sounds like I got their but in a different way perhaps?

So I guess I should go to my mechanic with this info huh?

Thanks. E
Got me there, you are right. It´s the fan up and downs. No codes should mean not low on freon. FYI, code 09 on the acc means low freon. You can guess how I know. Mine is running on freeze 12 now and doing great. No codes and blowing cold when I ask for it. And yep it´s the RPO C68.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Piper
Good point, that is what he said.

If that is the case, I would suspect a failure in the vent controllers.


Tom Piper
Just some added info. Reason I did not mention the vent controller is because of the heat problem. Our good friend the three hose check valve under the plastic cover on the right side of the engine causes poor vent control but does not influence the temperature of the air coming out.

That what why I was targeting on the blend door and its operation.

Last edited by pcolt94; May 27, 2008 at 01:45 PM.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 01:32 PM
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I have the same problem, there is no heat coming on. You are either low on freon or you have air in the system, mine has air in it from when I had a leak. Have the system vacuumed out and then recharge, my pressure was fine. But you could see a ton air bubbles in the system.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by schrade
But does it then turn on the HEAT???

OP says it's not just fresh air, but HEAT.

You sure about that, OP?
Absolutely sure that it is heat and NOT hot Florida fresh fan air. You put your hand right up there and it about feels like it's going to burn. My passenger confirms this diagnosis as well.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 03:49 PM
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I believe you when you say heat.

You should check for cold pipes as just to reinforce what I think is the problem and the compressor is running correctly.

The blend door operation can be checked by removing the blower module in the evaporator case and view the door with a flashlight. Turn the key on and have someone else run the temp control from 60 to 90. See if the door swings back and forth. If it does not move proper, investigate. If it does move, drive to cool position and see if it stays there.

I also assume when you press the RECL button, air comes out of the top vents properly
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Old May 27, 2008 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by pcolt94
I believe you when you say heat.

You should check for cold pipes as just to reinforce what I think is the problem and the compressor is running correctly.

The blend door operation can be checked by removing the blower module in the evaporator case and view the door with a flashlight. Turn the key on and have someone else run the temp control from 60 to 90. See if the door swings back and forth. If it does not move proper, investigate. If it does move, drive to cool position and see if it stays there.

I also assume when you press the RECL button, air comes out of the top vents properly
Yes, all pipes are cold. And yes air comes out of top vents properly on RECL button.

Any idea what kind of fix this would be? Expense wise? Complicated wise? I am not a mechanic but I have one.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 05:57 PM
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If it IS heat, the duct door is the sound you are hearin'.

Where is the sound comin' from? Engine area? Passenger dashboard area?

What happens if you manipulate the temp control (and nothin' else)???
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Old May 28, 2008 | 03:55 PM
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My bad about missing the hot air issue. And the code pull on the ac. It should be push and hold FAN up/down buttons for 5-6 sec. Then after you get -00 you push AUTO FAN and you will get codes.
00 no faults.
01 and 02 temp door motor circuit fault.
03 ambient sensor open.
04 -- -- short.
05 in-vehicle temp sensor open.
06 -- -- -- short.
07 solar load sensor open.
08 -- -- -- short.
09 low freon.
10 UART failure. (serial data communication between CCM, heater and the ac programmer (control head)).
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Old May 29, 2008 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by vette079
My bad about missing the hot air issue. And the code pull on the ac. It should be push and hold FAN up/down buttons for 5-6 sec. Then after you get -00 you push AUTO FAN and you will get codes.
00 no faults.
01 and 02 temp door motor circuit fault.
03 ambient sensor open.
04 -- -- short.
05 in-vehicle temp sensor open.
06 -- -- -- short.
07 solar load sensor open.
08 -- -- -- short.
09 low freon.
10 UART failure. (serial data communication between CCM, heater and the ac programmer (control head)).
I'm getting an 02 code.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by OceanVette
I'm getting an 02 code.
Makes sense. That's the only thing I can think of that would make the heat come through the ducts...
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Old May 30, 2008 | 02:26 PM
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Like Schrade says, My ´91 FSM says either:

Replace hvac programmer OR,
Replace heater case/temperature door assembly OR,
Replace temperature door motor.

There is a possibility that a temperature door isn´t aligned as it should according to my FSM, so you might get away without replacing stuff.

In either case it´s better for you guy´s to buy or borrow an FSM for your year. It´s 5-6 pages with diagnostics info to go through.
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