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ther was a forum supplier from down south a couple of weeks ago offering several levels of engine builds-with free shipping. Thought I book marked it but it's no where to be found. If you need some help, I live in Morris County but work in Franklin Lakes. I can offer an extra set of hands-PM me if needed
steve
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by Steve20
ther was a forum supplier from down south a couple of weeks ago offering several levels of engine builds-with free shipping. Thought I book marked it but it's no where to be found. If you need some help, I live in Morris County but work in Franklin Lakes. I can offer an extra set of hands-PM me if needed
steve
I'll take all the help I can get. Thanks. The summer is going to be tough, we spend most of our time at the beach, LBI.....probably going to be in September.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
My thought is that the bearings were border line and when I did the mods and increased the compression, from 10.25 to 10.5, that it just made an existing problem worse....
My thought is that the bearings were border line and when I did the mods and increased the compression, from 10.25 to 10.5, that it just made an existing problem worse....
You can fix this in the car if the rod is ok. All you need is scotch brite, a shoe lace, a mic, an oversized bearing, and some time.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by anesthes
You can fix this in the car if the rod is ok. All you need is scotch brite, a shoe lace, a mic, an oversized bearing, and some time.
-- Joe
My dad said something similar....The problem is that there's metal in the pan, and there's no point in running the risk in trashing the rest of the motor. The cam, lifters, rockers, all still salvageable.
I spun a rod bearing years ago in a built 327. I also had metal in the pan, turned out to be rod bearing metal, the crank was slightly gouged, I polished it by hand and checked the rod as much as possible, re-installed a standard bearing and ran it for years without a problem. I was told that the very slight gouge in the crank would not represent a problem if polished out. Worked for me. Good luck. Oh, and I never pulled the engine.
My dad said something similar....The problem is that there's metal in the pan, and there's no point in running the risk in trashing the rest of the motor. The cam, lifters, rockers, all still salvageable.
Oh. Well it's junk then.. I'm sorry .. I thought maybe it was just an early knock.
I spun a rod bearing years ago in a built 327. I also had metal in the pan, turned out to be rod bearing metal, the crank was slightly gouged, I polished it by hand and checked the rod as much as possible, re-installed a standard bearing and ran it for years without a problem. I was told that the very slight gouge in the crank would not represent a problem if polished out. Worked for me. Good luck. Oh, and I never pulled the engine.
You could have a very BIG gouge too. All it is going to be is a void where oil sits. As long as it polishes out and the void is in and not UP where it will tear the new bearing its fine.
I know how jsup feels though. If any of that is hard metal and in his gallies it could tear the rest up. Better to have it hot tanked and rebuilt.
I was thinking about you this past weekend. It was 85* while out cruising so I was watching my guages and thought about taking a picture and posting it on here for you to compair. Something had to be terribly wrong to have oil temps that high. I take it that when you say cyl. 1, you mean connecting rod bearing spun? Better replace that rod. More then likely, even if you didn't hear any knocking, the rod is damaged and needs replaced. Probably wouldn't hurt to have the crank throws indexed. For some reason, when a rod bearing goes like that. It sends metal shavings up into the cam bearings.