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What is the widest cog belt that will fit where the 8 rib normally sits without interfering with the opti? 35mm? Are there many lengths in these belts or are you at the mercy of the belt sizes when you are setting up things. Is there one type fo belt that is better than others?
I'm just trying to see if it's even realistic to try a sprag type pulley on the blower with my ysi. I'm seeing tons of belt slip, even with a spring to reinforce the tensioner assembly. Cog wouldn't require much tension at all and would allow me to have even boost through all my gears which I currently don't have.
You can't get much wider than an 8 rib belt without hitting the opti. If you're really serious about it then its time to ditch the opti and go for a big cog setup.
whoops, I forgot that I changed to the carrol kit anyway which won't allow me to use a belt wider than an 8 rib.
Are there any good online resources that show the different lengths of 35 mm belts available? I went to gates.com but didn't find anything that said the lengths and widths of the belts.
whoops, I forgot that I changed to the carrol kit anyway which won't allow me to use a belt wider than an 8 rib.
Are there any good online resources that show the different lengths of 35 mm belts available? I went to gates.com but didn't find anything that said the lengths and widths of the belts.
the 30mm wide 8mm pitch cog belts are way easier to find then the 35mm and they are also offered in way more sizes ,like on mine I'm going to use a 94 inch long 30mm wide belt .the places i found to have the best selection are www.jasonindustrial.com and www.ametric.com ,and they are all available in Kevlar if you want .on my friends mustang we got a 74 tooth crank pulley with a 38 tooth sprag s/c pulley on a d1 and a jasons htd 30mm wide 8mm pitch belt and believe me he beat the crap out of his car and have had no belt problems at all .I can hook you up with the cog pulley set up you need ,i will send you a pm with the details
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Originally Posted by makn u shiver
the 30mm wide 8mm pitch cog belts are way easier to find then the 35mm and they are also offered in way more sizes ,like on mine I'm going to use a 94 inch long 30mm wide belt .the places i found to have the best selection are www.jasonindustrial.com and www.ametric.com ,and they are all available in Kevlar if you want .on my friends mustang we got a 74 tooth crank pulley with a 38 tooth sprag s/c pulley on a d1 and a jasons htd 30mm wide 8mm pitch belt and believe me he beat the crap out of his car and have had no belt problems at all .I can hook you up with the cog pulley set up you need ,i will send you a pm with the details
No this is not mine i think this is Aarons (aks racings)old set up. this set up runs the cog belt from the back side of the pulley,it must be a pita to get the cog belt around all the brackets and p/s pump i would think .was it you that had ron at black mountain build you a cog system for your lt1? .
I've actually spoken to ron at blackmountain about cogs in the past but I wasn't too sold on the belt life. Here's a quote from bob kurgan who is a big time mustang racer and recently tuned a high 8 second LTX f body with the ysi:
the belt is physically not strong enough... the teeth will just tear away from the belt... There are not enough "teeth" engaged with a 28t.. if you use a 30 or 32, you have 2-4 more teeth to share in the pulling.
from what you guys have seen, if I add a sprag blower pulley like the ati ones, would that help quite a bit? I'm limited on clearance(35mm max).
btw, thanks for the 60lb injectors bob. they work awesome!
that would not work... like i stated, there are not enough teeth engaged on the 28tooth to make a 35mm work... its a strength thing...
PS.. glad everything worked out!
From another guy who tried to run 35mm with the ysi:
I couldnt make a complete pass with the 35mm. They just arent strong enough and RPM's Just killm. Im running a 50mm and one of Bob Kurgan's strut braces and I go month's on the same belt turning my motor 7- 8000 RPM. You can do the same with a serp set up but ya gotta have Kurgan's brace. My advise is get rid of the 35mm stuff cause you'll never make it work
My main issue is that I need a small pulley, 28t or 30 t to get my blower even close to where I need to be. With a 32+ tooth cog pulley, the issues start to go away. Smaller blowers like the s or t trim won't have the same issues that I'll run into. I think I need to find a way to fit a 50mm on there with my carroll bracket. If I had the step up ratio of a procharger, I wouldn't run into these issues.
You can't get much wider than an 8 rib belt without hitting the opti. If you're really serious about it then its time to ditch the opti and go for a big cog setup.
what are the options for ditching the opti and how much work and cost is it? Thanks!
what are the options for ditching the opti and how much work and cost is it? Thanks!
Some of us have gone to the Accel dual sync distributor. Which works great, but you'd have to get an Accel Gen 7 system. This would probably run you 2-3k, but you gain the advantage to having a stand alone ECU.
Your other option is to go with coil packs. LTCC I think is what there called(or who makes them). This allows you to get rid of your cap and rotor. You can then modify the opti housing to make more room. All you need is just enough for the optical wheel inside which should give you plenty of room to work with. This option should run you about $500 I think, I could be off on this one.
interesting. I need 15mm more clearance to fit a 50mm setup in there. I could probably reduce the spacers on the blower bracket by 15 mm and make everything fit fine.
I'm still not certain how this works to add more space for me. I understand that you just use it for the optical. Does this mean that you pull the cover off the opti were the plug wires connect to? How much more clearance would this give me? I have an older one (92-93) so I don't even know if I can pull the cover off of it. Well, at least I haven't tried yet.
If you decide to go with the LTCC then you would find a way to modify the cover of the opti. The 92-93 opti's do come apart. The optical wheel inside is only about a quarter to a half of the total depth of the opti setup.
What I would do is to pop open the opti and find out where the sensor/wheel is exactly located. Take a hack saw and cut off the rest of the plastic casing below that. And then appoxy up the hole air tight.
Just make sure that you leave the mounting bracket and enough of a lip to put the epoxy on without interfereing with the wheel inside. Also take the rotor out and use LOCTITE! I didn't once and the screws came out of my opti, what a pain to diagnose.
This should give you a good inch or two off the bottom of the opti case and should allow you to run a wider belt going back toward the engine further.
by chance did you do this to your setup? If so, do you have any pics of the blower drive system and opti?
No I've got an Accel Gen 7 system with the rear mount distributor. I'm also running a turbo so I had to go with an aftermarket system. Unfortunately I'm going on vacation for a week starting as soon as I leave work today. I can try to remember to get you a picture of how much room is there when I get back and get into my garage again.
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