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Newbie question for 86 AC

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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 01:32 PM
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Default Newbie question for 86 AC

Hi guys and gals...great vette forum!
Can anyone offer some assistance in locating the AC low side port on a 1986 Conv. I'm planning on convering to a R134a freon from the stock R12...any input and personal experiences with this conversion is greatly apppreciated.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 02:30 PM
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It's on the Accumulator. Go to the forum here for good info on how to complete your conversion: http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...&threadid=7927
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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SunCr, Thanks for the link, However since my post I've read on another AC site (link)

http://members.tripod.com/~jbabs714/autoac.htm (page 2)

that it can be a matter of just adding the R134a freon to an existing R12 system without having to change seals and or oil with years of trouble free operation/cooling etc.. (All leaks repaired afcource)
This site seems a legitamate AC source of information and I was hopping it's simple operation as this with the same results?

Last edited by jimmieM; Jun 5, 2008 at 06:18 PM.
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 06:43 PM
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Its on the line running into the evaporator, right above the blower motor on the outside of the firewall, I believe its a green and black wire

Last edited by davenbocafl; Jun 5, 2008 at 06:45 PM.
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 06:57 PM
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I believe the proper way to covert a r-12 system to r-134 is to change out the compressor, seals and dryer and accumulator. Having said that... I was too cheap, lazy and hot to bother in my conversion over four years ago. I merely had the remaining r-12 sucked out and changed the fittings to accommodate the r-134 and had the new refrigerant pumped in.

My thinking was that the system was not working well prior to the change over, what did I have to loose. My plan was to buy all new parts when it blew up. To my surprise it has worked perfectly over four years now with zero leakage. I don't why, but I will keep going with it till it breaks.

I'm sure eventually I will be replacing everything, but ultimately it was going to wear out or break due to age anyway.

Hope this helps with your decision

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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 07:35 PM
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cmontel727 It's the answer/personal experience I'm looking for...Thanks for posting. Like you I'm curently lazy & cheap as well. Maybee It's wishfull thinking looking to the easy way out but there is nothing to loose as you mentioned.

As for the low side port located on the accumulator... as SunCr mentioned, I believe thats that shiny aluminum can/receiver/dryer sitting ahead of the compressor splitting the large OD line running to the Evaporator...correct?

Last edited by jimmieM; Jun 5, 2008 at 07:39 PM.
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 08:20 PM
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http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/HVAV'S.pdf

Last edited by AGENT 86; Jun 5, 2008 at 08:23 PM.
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmieM
cmontel727 It's the answer/personal experience I'm looking for...Thanks for posting. Like you I'm curently lazy & cheap as well. Maybee It's wishfull thinking looking to the easy way out but there is nothing to loose as you mentioned.

As for the low side port located on the accumulator... as SunCr mentioned, I believe thats that shiny aluminum can/receiver/dryer sitting ahead of the compressor splitting the large OD line running to the Evaporator...correct?

You are correct
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 09:24 PM
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Thanks again.
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 09:42 PM
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R134a will not properly circulate the mineral oil used with R12. Usually if the oil is not changed the compressor will burn up from no oil.
Some of the blends, Freeze12, R412 ect will work with mineral oil. There are all kinds of EPA rules for this stuff.

JS
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 01:49 AM
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Just an update on my AC retro in my 86.

After good advice in this forum,and some research, I decided to go with Duracool12a freon as oposed to the R134a due to better compatibility with the existing R12 compressor oil etc.. Also it's way more efficient and cools alot better than R134a.

I bought the car new in 1986, and the AC system in the car has been empty and non-functional for about 12 years due to freon loss over the years and during long storage periods etc.. I had it checked at a GM authorized AC center about 6 years ago, which at the time they informed me that I had a leaking evaporator and it would cost $1,000 to have it repaired/replaced and cooling again which I declined due to the cost. They also drilled a couple of holes in the capsule of the evaporator which made me mad... WTF!

Recently I took the car out of storage and I decided to try and convert to an over the shelf freon, and not having anything to loose since the system was empty of R12 and could try to fix it myself,which prompted me to find the best forum for advice etc... Thank You I also had herd that sometimes these small leaks in o-rings/aluminum have a tendency of being sealed with the over the counter sealers?

The 1986 corvette AC runs on 2.25 lbs of R12 freon which the conversion for filling with Duracool 12a freon is about 35% of the volume of the R12 which results to about 12 ounces of Duracool12a so armed with a conversion AC tune-up kit and a set of guages I hooked up the hose to the low side port located on the silver can/dryer located ahead of the compressor by the rad neck and began to put in 6 ounces of freon, about half of the can in there, I started the car placed the ac on high and the fan on low and nothing was happening and the compressor was not cycling at all and the pressure on the low side guage was going up to 35-38 lbs and I started to worry so I tightened the valve on the freon can and stopped puting in anymore freon thinking the compressor was faulty or not turning on at the swirch so I jumped the switch with a paper clip and sure enough the compressor engaged. I then opened the valve up on the freon again and emptied all 6oz contents in there then the compressor started cycling in about 3 second intervals..thinking GREAT!! I then added a 4 ounce can of Duracool Oil Chill (2 oz freone/2 oz compressor oil to make up for any original compressor oil loss due to the R12 leaking out over the years. Then I added 4 ounces of Duracool Duradry(2 oz freon/2 oz application)and run the car at idle for about 20 minutes to elimainate any moisture in the system, Then I put in a 4 ounce can of Duracool System Seal (2 oz freon/2 oz sealer and run the engine at idle for a further 20 minutes to circulate and find any holes to seal etc..

The end result was a total of 12 ounces of Duracool 12a placed in the system, ol;ong with the other contents in the tune-up cans and the end temperture of 42 degrees ferenheit at the closest duct to the evaporator. 10 days later the system is still cooling at this temperture and the pressure on the low side is at about 38-40 psi at idle.

Thanks again to all for all your comments and advice posted, now if I can just fix the volt problem...

Last edited by jimmieM; Jul 2, 2008 at 02:12 AM.
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