A couple of weeks ago I began having some intermitant ignition issues. After the car is sitting for a few hours or over night I get in and turn the key and it does nothing even though it reads 12.3 volts. I remove the key and try again and after a couple times of repeating the process it starts right up. When it's running it reads 14.x volts. This is my 1995 daily driver. It has an after market viper alarm installed by the previous owner. The battery was a couple of months old but I replaced it anyway on Satday. I had it checked at Autozone. They said the battery and the alternator are good. A week before this started to happen I got in one morning and it started with a loud screeching noise. It sounded exactly like a screeching serpentine belt. I poped the hood and I am about 90% sure it was not coming from the belt. When I stuck my head under the passanger side it sounded like it was coming from underneath by the oil pan/starter area. After driveing for one block it went away and I have not heard it since. Where should I go from here? Ignition, starter, electrical issue? I will check my FSM later. See video below for example of what it is doing.




Thank you

 

Always include the year C4 you are asking help for.
Most likely you have a VATS related problem and if you use the search function you will be buried in information on how to diagnose VATS.
I have typed the following info more than 350 times, I'll do once again.
When it won't start, that is the time to diagnose the cause. Unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if automatic) and jump the socket. Measure the voltage on the jumper when you hit crank. If you have 12v and no cranking, then you have a problem with the battery cable connections, battery, or the starter motor. If no 12v, then remove the kick panel above the drivers feet and find the 2 wires from above the steering column and unplug them from the 2 pin connector. Plug your ign key in and measure the resistance across the 2 wires from the steering column. It should measure the same as the pellet and if more than 4% off, you need a new ign lock which will have new contacts that make connection with the pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS until you can schedule the replacement by connecting a fixed resistor across the wiring harness 2 pin socket the same value as your pellet. You can use one or more 1/4 ohm 5% resistors from Radio Shack. Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition. Also, there is a start enable relay in the VATS circuit that might be defective, coil or contacts, which will prevent 12v from appearing on the clutch sw jumper.

 

Sounds like it might be a starter, mainly the solenoid probably. Another possible could be the ignition switch being bad but the starter is a much more common occurrence. The symptom is very common and that’s how the starters go bad by just not engaging.

I don’t think its VATS because after the first unsuccessful try, I believe it takes 3 minutes to time out until you can try the next time for a start. And when you turn the key and it starts 10 seconds later after the first try, I think that might eliminate VATS.

 

 

Happened to me. Nest time it happens immediately tap the starter with a hammer. If that makes it crank it is the starter.

 

Thanks for the tips. It also pointed me in the right direction to find some helpful past threads. I will try hitting it with a hammer next time it acts up. I noticed that if I wait until after the accessories come on and the doors lock it has a better chance of starting on the first try. Does anyone know what that noise I heard a few weeks ago could be? Do starters make that kind of high pictch screeching noise? I noticed they sell a starter repair kit on ebay that has new contacts. I wonder if this would be worth a try? Where would be the best place to buy a new starter and solenoid?

Thanks again

 

If you want to get technical and take some of the guess work out of it, I would make a few measurements. Jack it up first. Get a volt meter (DVM) and connect the red lead to the wire (nut) connection on the solenoid using a long wire so you can place the meter near the windshield area so you can see it, and ground the black lead. Turn the key and watch the meter. If there is voltage there and it does not start, then there is no question that the solenoid/starter is defective. If there is no voltage the problem is else where.

The Ebay kit is the internal contacts for the solenoid. I have no comment for this kit, looks great on paper. Hopefully the solenoid can come apart easily. The starter still has to come out.

Best place the buy a starter is the one that has a lifetime guarantee. Depends where you live. Where I am there is A/Z, Advanced and Napa are around.

 

Yep, sounds like the starter to me, and yes, they can and do make a screaching noise, even new ones. The last starter I installed made a screaching noise for the first week, then went away. Make sure you look at the starter shims when you take it out, and try to re-use the same shims.

 

Start small and work towards big, look at the starter and solenoid first. I have had starters go out on everything I have owned atleast once.

My 94's starter went out, with a screaching noise My 72's starter died with a "click".

Don't think it's a major issue first and start throwing money at it

Like I said, start small and work up from there, most likely its the starter. If it's not come back to the forum and we can help you out with the problem.

 

I have not had a starter go bad on me yet so I can't help with those symptoms. However, I have too much experience with VATS and this does not sound like one.

With a VATS issue, typcally the car will start then die in about two seconds - the computer shuts off the injectors.

The reason you get 12.3V with the car off and 14 while running is because the alternator will keep the system voltage above 14 once the car is started. The 12.3 is simply the battery's "resting" charge with minimal load.

In other words, I agree with your assessment that the battery and alternator are good.

Above posts make it sound like the starter, start there. I was just trying to help you eliminate other options...

 

That sounds like a bad electrical connection or more probably your starter solenoid is on the way out. It's possibly to take it to bits and see if it's bad. There's a copper disc in there that closes the circuit when the solenoid shoots it out and it can become pretty pitted.Try sanding it flat and see if that works.The screeching is probably the starter staying engaged if you have a sticky solenoid.They aren't designed to rev that high!!

 

Thanks. When I take it off I will check the solenoid out.

So, is it worth $30 shipping incld. for the contacts and plunger rebuild? I found a kit on ebay. The other option would be to buy the whole starter and solenoid somewhere? The GM replacement is about $250 on ebay. Is there some place that sells a decent one about $100? Going by the suggestions and I'm also thinking the rebuild may be the way to go. I'd like to order today if possible for this weekend's project.

Thanks

 

$68.99 at NAPA.Thats a delco rebuild or $119 new for the same.

 

Damn, I just ordered the Ebay rebuild kit for $30 about an hour ago. I probablly would have went with the $70 unit instead of the 30 rebuild kit.

Thanks anyway

 

I finally heard the screeching noise again today at lunch. If it is a sticky solenoid causing the screeching noise would the rebuild kit I ordered fix it? If not is there something else I could do while it is out? If the starter is staying engaged, could that damage it? I will be working on this tomorrow or Sunday if I get the parts on time.

Thanks again


The kit I ordered....

 

Repair kit still has not arrived. If it doesnt get here today I'm goin to napa tomorrow. $166 with a lifetime warranty.

 

From personal experience over a lot of years of repairing or replacing a solenoid, the Gods of luck have never been on my side. I did the work just fine and it always worked but not long after the rest of the starter became a problem.

So now I replace the starter right out of the gate. New, rebuilt or whatever its another starter. Possible others have had hopefully better luck than me in a repair situation.

Best of luck in your resolution and don’t get to frustrated.

 

Thanks everyone for the help!

See write up here.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2060042

 

Rick, your write up was awesome, its another reason to love the forum.

 

I'm glad it helped. The fix kit worked well. The car still starts right away.