My battery went dead on me this week, but I haven't used the car lately, and thought it was just from sitting. I charged up the battery last night, and this morning it started up just fine. I checked the alternator to see if it was putting out as I had just replaced it a couple weeks ago. The gauge in the car said 13.4v but my meter said 14.4v, so either way it seemed to be charging.

I went out for a while and when I got in the car to go home, the battery was low and it wouldn't start. I was only out of the car for about 30 minutes.

Steve came and jumped me off and it started right up and I drove home. When I got home I pulled the negative cable and put a test light between it and the battery and it lit up, so I thought that was an indication of a short. I pulled all the fuses and unplugged every connection I could find and the light stayed on the whole time.

Do you think I have a short or maybe the battery is just bad. If it is a short, what else would I check to isolate it.

Appreciate any help. Thanks.

Follow up. With both doors closed, when I touch the negative cable to the battery, I hear a click in the left front by the headlight and the interior lights come on. If I hold the cable on the battery for a few seconds the interior lights go out. The test light still lights after I do this.

 

I would suspect the battery is going.

The other things you describe,about how you tested it ,makes me think that the (short) you think is there is really the delayed entry lights.

With your meter between the negative terminal and cable, you would read a current (voltage) draw ,although minimal, from the interior lights.


That's the way it's supposed to work.

I would take the battery to AutoZone and have them test it.

 

The battery was bad, I figured that. After I put the new battery in I put my meter between the cable and the negative terminal, and it is drawing 12 volts. Definately a problem somewhere. Like I said earlier, I pulled every fuse and unplugged everything I could. Car starts and runs perfectly and everything works. ???????????

 

You need to measure the Current draw.

 

It's drawing 12 volts.

 

I let mine set for 2 or 3 weeks at a time and the battery is always dead, most of the time i can boost it,but still i have to buy a new battery every 6 months because it doesnt like to be drained, finally i installed a 600 amp selinoid on the Neg. battery cable and that ended all those problems, plus it acts as a great theft device.mine works off the cigarette lighter

 

Your test light tells you that you have leakage current far in excess of GM's rule that it shouldn't exceed 50 milliamps. My 87 draws 27 ma. and I have no problems. Your test light draws a lot more than 50 ma. to light up. You measure leakage current with your VOM (voltmeter, ohmeter, milliammeter) when it is set to AMPS, not volts. Leakage current is measured in amps or milliamps. You also have to wait for the courtesy lights to time out and then you can switch the ammeter to lower full scale current to measure the leakage current.
First, at night check for underhood lights, door map lights, vanity lights, rearview mirror map light, console light. Don't leave your ign key in the ignition because it keeps the theft alarm circuit on. Do you have a radar detector, GPS,CB, aftermarket alarm or radio or audio amplifier? Check em. You can watch your ammeter and pull fuses one at time (remove the courtesy light fuse so you can keep your passenger door open). Behind the battery is the jump start junction (bolt with 8 red wires). Remove the nut and remove the wires one at a time while watching your ammeter. Some members found stuck on seat adjust switches and warm seat adj motors, you might leave the charge up battery connected for 15 minutes and feel the motors. Come back and let us know what you found.
While your forum name makes me believe you have an 88 C4, that may not be true and I recommend that you always identify what year C4 you are asking help for.

 

Thanks for the help, and I'll check all the things you mentioned. I have already pulled every fuse, but I'll pull them again to be sure, and yes I do have an 88, thanks again. I'll post my findings in the morning.

 

Ok, this morning I pulled all the fuses and checked each one, they were all good. I started putting them back in one by one and found two problems. One was the courtesy and clock and the other the LCD (display). Obviously the two are connected somehow, is that right, or do I have two separate problems?? How do I proceed, what do I check next? Appreciate any help.

 

The Ctsy/clk feeds 24 items. Sorry.

Bose amp
Map lights
A/c Control relay [C68]
The crtsy timer
footwell lights
Audio alarm
Engine Lights
Cigar lighter
Glove box light
Spare tire light
Antenna relays & capacitor.
Tell Tale assem ,
which goes to Low coolant indicator, [then to Low
Coolant sensor
module [ don’t check resistance it’s a solid state
relay] This is a likely culprit [ sorry again].

and Security indicator lps [ then on to the Theft
Deterrent sys].

If you are a religious man Pray it’s not the LCD cluster. Two technical for a post.



Everybody hates this following answer but the manual is the most valuable electrical tool you can buy 1/3 of the manual is Drivability and wiring stuff.

Good luck

TJM

 

In all the years I've had the car, I've never had any problems that weren't self inflicted. I guess it's time to get a manul.

 

Nah,

Just to many wires. I remember when you could count them all, on both hands with your shoes on!