Yes, I have a FSM for my 96 LT1. Just thought I'd get that out of the right off.

My problem is with the turn signals. I've checked all the bulbs and have changed the flasher. O pulled each and every fuse, both under the hood and on the passenger side and all are good and the correct amperage.

With the headlights OFF, both turn signals work as they should, HOWEVER, when they headlights are ON the problems start.

With the headlights ON the LEFT (driver's side) signals work as they should, but the right (passenger side) don't. With headlights On, both sides of the rear flash; the driver's side flashes (blinks) much more dimly that the passenger side. Also, the cornering light doesn't illiminate, the side marker light doesn't flash and the right front bulb doesn't flash. When the headlights are OFF all work as they should - both sides.

Also, my dash lighting flashes when the headlights are ON and the RIGHT turn signal is used; BUT doesn't do it when the LEFT turn signal is used. Another crazy thing is that the chime sounds when I have my foot on the brake pedal.

My FSM doesn't address my crazy problem. I'm thinking it's the multi-function lever (turn signal lever) causing all these problems. Cruise and wipers work as they should; it's only the RIGHT SIDE TURN SIGNAL that's acting up.

Any thoughts??

Thanks for the help.

Jake

 

Check the headlight grounds on the frame near the front park/turn lamps.

 

I looked at them, but didn't actually unscrew them - Guess I'll do that first. Both ground connections seemed to be clean and rust free.

The engine compartment has been well maintained.

Thanks for that.

Jake

 

I would remove the screws, clean the connectors and frame rail with some sand paper then tighten them back down, definitely worth a try, good luck.

 

Your symptoms are textbook for a poor electrical connection to ground at the frame on the right side. You can clean the frame and ground lug with sandpaper, steel wool, but NEVER clean electrical connector pins this way or you will have a lifetime of trouble afterwards. Use electrical contact cleaner and a Q tip.

 

Had this problem on my Saturn. Turns out the ground connector on the lamp socket, where the bulb lug contacts the socket. Turn signals did some crazy stuff depending on what other lamps were on.
I'd agree that it is a ground problem.
Pete

 

The ground connection at the frame rail is a ring terminal as far as I know.
When I clean those pin connections I sandblast them , is that why I've had a lifetime of trouble?

 

I agree a ground is the most likely problem.

However, I am curious if you have some after-market Daytime Running Light (DRL) module installed that converts your front turn signal bulbs into DRLs.
If you do, I would disconnect the DRL module and see if the problem goes away.

Tom Piper

 

If you want to know where the grounds are terminated, you can spend some time in the FSM and it will tell you where the ground connections are. You have to chase the diagrams and figures. Impossible for some, easy for few.

 

The ground connection to the frame is NOT a pin that plugs into a socket ! The pin and the socket are connectors that have been plated with a metal that doesn't easily oxidize or corrode. If you get aggressive with mechanical abrading these types of connectors, you will likely remove the plating and the pin/socket metal will be exposed and they will start to oxidize and/or corrode and you will then have a lifetime of trouble with that connection.
Any other trouble that you have experienced in your lifetime are most likey your own doing!

 

I was afraid you were going to say that. Hope everyone realizes the sandblasting comment was in jest, listen to jfb's excellent advice when it comes to cleaning those delicate pin connectors.
How about it JAKE, any luck repairing your problem?

 

Here's the latest:

I've spent the last few days checking as many things as I could and most of those recommended here. So far nothing found to cure the crazy turn signal problem, but I do have a couple opf HOT LEADS.

First, the car - which I recently bought - has a remote start system installedl; it's a AudioVox AS 9055. It worked for weeks after I bought the car, but now doesn't. Engine will start remotely, but instantly dies.
I've tried it repeatedly and it does the same thing - start, die. Engine starts and runs normally with the key though.

I'm going to drop the dash and see if any of the fuses to the remote start system is/are blown. This - my thinking is - could be causing the turn signal problem since those bulbs flash during a remote start.

Second thing is I noticed that the outboard passenger side tail light bulb on occasion, won't go BRIGHT (as when stepping on the brake pedal), but if I give it a tap it goes BRIGHT. That tells me it may be the buld socket.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Jake

 

I was thinking the same thing I have had bad socket grounds cause blinking issues.

 

Have you tried with the headlights on, AND THE HEADLIGHT MOTORS BOTH UNPLUGGED (so that the headlights don't rotate)???

And then with the headlights disconnected, but the motors plugged in???

 

And what happens when you have the flashers on (emergency flashers), and then you turn on the headlights?

Same symptom?

 

PROBLEM SOLVED!!

Here're the details:

I knew that all the bulbs were good since they illuminated, just not in the correct sequence, etc. For example, when the headlights were ON, and I put the turn signal lever to the RIGHT TURN position, both left and right signals would flash on BOTH the front and rear of the car. In addition, the cornering lights would not illuminate and, on a couple of occasions, would actually flash as if they were turn-signals.

With the lever in the left turn position, most often all worked fine.

With the turn signal lever on RIGHT TURN, the front side marker lights would blink in unison with the turn signals, NOT alternate ON/OFF as they should.

The Fog Lights came on when I stepped on the brake pedal, the dash lighting would dim and brighten, just like the dash was getting the turn signal command. Even the lights on the auto temp control would blink bright then dim then bright, etc.

Everything was screwed up whenever the headlights were ON, but worked normally when the headlights were OFF. In addition the remote start system wouldn't work. The engine would start when the remote starter button was pushed twice, but the engine would immediately shut off. Start and after a few seconds, quit!

CRAZY, CRAZY, CRAZY!!

So I dropped the driver's side dash panels and checked all three fuses on the remote start system; all were good. I looked around under there for any sign of wires over-heating, shorting or being disconnected; none were found. I spent a good part of the afternoon upside down under the dash having a look-see and nothing struck me as being the possible cause.

So I fired the engine, turned on the headlights and put the turn signal lever to the right turn position. Just as before the lights went crazy; some were not blinking and others were blinking when they shouldn't.

The psnger side outboard rear tail light was dim and when I tapped it with my hand, it brightened and began to flash. So, I removed the red lense and removed the NEW bulb. Took a look at the socket and noticed two very small strips inside the socket in the area where the brass part of the bulb would fit.

I took a small screwdriver and pried the two strips upward, thinking they weren't making solid contact with the brass side of the bulb. BINGO! The bulb began flashing as it should.

I then attacked the passenger side front turn signal light that was doing the same thing, not flashing. The socket is different from the rear, but it, too, has a bulb grounding provision. I pried that grounding strip up to create better contact; BINGO! That light began working normally too.

I then tried the remote starter system and Low And BeHold the engine now starts and idles normally. So everything now works normally as it should and the cost of repair was ZERO DOLLARS.

So in trying to figure all this out, seems that the brass ends of the bulbs have to be in contact with the grounding strap on the bulb's socket for the bulb to work properly. When there is no or intermittent contact it effects the much of the lighting system. Since the remote start system (an AudioVox) ties into the lights, it too is effected.

Just to check, I ordered a replacement rear bulb socket from O'Reilly"s Auto Parts and when it came in I saw that it has a separate negative/grounding WIRE, and didn't have the little grounding strips that my sockets have. I'm guessing the one I ordered must be a upgraded model resulting from many complaints lodged with GM regarding their original design.

For anyone who may experience a similar problem on a late C4, (mine's a 96) be sure to check the bulb contact with the socket.

Thanks to all who have helped nurse-maid me through this, I really appreciate the advice and support.

Jake

 

AMAZING !!!

 

Yep. Who'd have thunk it!.

Jake