Developed a stutter. (First performance problem)
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 3
From: Oxford CT
Developed a stutter. (First performance problem)
I knew this day would come. 85c4 47kmiles
Car runs great and idles great.
When giving it steady gas in any gear I can feel a stutter or hessitation.
Yes this is with a full tank, and I did change the fuel filter.
Not to sure where to start, but think I will throw it on the computer - to get no codes im sure.
I want to bet on the distributor/rotor and cap or injectors ?
Any direction would be good.
Car runs great and idles great.
When giving it steady gas in any gear I can feel a stutter or hessitation.
Yes this is with a full tank, and I did change the fuel filter.
Not to sure where to start, but think I will throw it on the computer - to get no codes im sure.
I want to bet on the distributor/rotor and cap or injectors ?
Any direction would be good.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 1
From: Jasper Texas
Try this first, open the hood when its dark out and let it idle. Look for sparks jumping from the wires.
Could be alot of things, but it sounds spark related to me. Have you used the paper clip method to check for codes?
Could be alot of things, but it sounds spark related to me. Have you used the paper clip method to check for codes?
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 96,443
Likes: 9
From: Fort Knox, KY
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Sounds like bad plug wires to me. The O.E.M. AC/Delco wires are only good for 60,000 miles. How many miles are on your 'Vette?
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: :45 minutes from everywhere / E-I-E-I-O
Racer
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
From: Flint Michigan, #2 in unemployment, #3 in Violent crimes
beat me to this one. I am going through the same thing right now.
replace plug wires and check back. I put in plugs and it made a night and day difference. I can see some light spark coming from my wires in the dark. they are next on the chopping block.
I have a surge at idle and sometimes I get a bucking/surging miss at acceleration. otherwise, runs perfect.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 3
From: Oxford CT
Update:
This may have nothing to do with it, but also This started around the last time I washed my car. I dont think the motor got wet, so I could be coincidence.
No visible spark at night.
Cant really tell if it is doing the skip when in neutral with steady gas.
It does get warm under the hood.
This may have nothing to do with it, but also This started around the last time I washed my car. I dont think the motor got wet, so I could be coincidence.
No visible spark at night.
Cant really tell if it is doing the skip when in neutral with steady gas.
It does get warm under the hood.
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Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 96,443
Likes: 9
From: Fort Knox, KY
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Update:
This may have nothing to do with it, but also This started around the last time I washed my car. I dont think the motor got wet, so I could be coincidence.
No visible spark at night.
Cant really tell if it is doing the skip when in neutral with steady gas.
It does get warm under the hood.
This may have nothing to do with it, but also This started around the last time I washed my car. I dont think the motor got wet, so I could be coincidence.
No visible spark at night.
Cant really tell if it is doing the skip when in neutral with steady gas.
It does get warm under the hood.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,130
Likes: 2
From: seattle WA
I'm going against the grain here, before I'd just replace them I'd ohm them. Connect your ohm meter to both ends, they should read 5000 ohms per foot, twist as you check them. And keep in mind it's 5000 per foot, so they're going to have different readings. How long ago was it that you changed or replaced spark plugs?
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,331
Likes: 3,245
From: Hartford WI
Try making it easier for the sparks to show. At night spray a fine mist of water at the wires. Get a bottle with mist spray and spray the mist around the wires. It might spark then. Been there, done that.
Next. How are the plugs? Have you changed them lately? If they are good, check spark. Get one of the plugs and ground the threads and plug it in. If there is not a blue flame, you have other issues.
Also, what about fuel pressure?
Next. How are the plugs? Have you changed them lately? If they are good, check spark. Get one of the plugs and ground the threads and plug it in. If there is not a blue flame, you have other issues.
Also, what about fuel pressure?
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 105
Likes: 1
From: New Ulm MN
It sounds like a vacuum leak to me !!
Start it up and listen really well for that faint sucking sound. Follow your lines and inspect them carefully. Just above the A.C compressor towards the center of the car there is a second solenoid vacuum line that was sucking air on mine yesterday. Fixed it with a new oring. Also, right in front of your distributor three vac tubes come together. Cruise control and defrost lines. I have found leaks there as well. If it is not your plugs/wires try your vacuum lines. Have you ever cleaned your MAF before? It is 23 years old! I bet that baby is full fo dust!
Start it up and listen really well for that faint sucking sound. Follow your lines and inspect them carefully. Just above the A.C compressor towards the center of the car there is a second solenoid vacuum line that was sucking air on mine yesterday. Fixed it with a new oring. Also, right in front of your distributor three vac tubes come together. Cruise control and defrost lines. I have found leaks there as well. If it is not your plugs/wires try your vacuum lines. Have you ever cleaned your MAF before? It is 23 years old! I bet that baby is full fo dust!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 3
From: Oxford CT
got it with 42k miles. Inspected plugs and wires which were fine So i didnt do them.
now at 47 k miles.
Never cleaned the maf
ill work on checking all vac lines
testing the wires
now at 47 k miles.
Never cleaned the maf
ill work on checking all vac lines
testing the wires
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,327
Likes: 5
From: 2010 C6 Grand Sport Convertible
Dan,
Possibly your distributor cap took a crap. If it were the LT1, my bets would be on that infamous opti. With your engine, the cap and rotor should be cake. They are easy and cheap enuff to swap out. Let me know what happens.
Mike
Possibly your distributor cap took a crap. If it were the LT1, my bets would be on that infamous opti. With your engine, the cap and rotor should be cake. They are easy and cheap enuff to swap out. Let me know what happens.
Mike
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 96,443
Likes: 9
From: Fort Knox, KY
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Also, don't forget to inspect/replace your PCV valve. It's a cheap item that often gets neglected at tune-up time, but a clogged valve can cause performance and drivability problems, too.
The spring in the valve can become weak or break and the valve will not open at all. This results in no removal of engine vapors and a build up of pressure in the crankcase.
The air will actually flow backwards into the air cleaner! One symptom of this is oil in the air filter housing at the entrance of the PCV tube. This can also occur if the Blow-By is too high.
Second, the valve can get gummy and stick in the open position allowing too much flow at idle conditions. This results in a rough idle or stalling condition.
A quick check to see if it is faulty is to shake it and listen if the ball inside rattles - if it does then it is probably OK. Then, with the engine running, put your finger on the end of the valve.
You should feel a strong vacuum. If you don't, then the valve is clogged and/or the tube is leaking. Fix or replace as necessary.
The spring in the valve can become weak or break and the valve will not open at all. This results in no removal of engine vapors and a build up of pressure in the crankcase.
The air will actually flow backwards into the air cleaner! One symptom of this is oil in the air filter housing at the entrance of the PCV tube. This can also occur if the Blow-By is too high.
Second, the valve can get gummy and stick in the open position allowing too much flow at idle conditions. This results in a rough idle or stalling condition.
A quick check to see if it is faulty is to shake it and listen if the ball inside rattles - if it does then it is probably OK. Then, with the engine running, put your finger on the end of the valve.
You should feel a strong vacuum. If you don't, then the valve is clogged and/or the tube is leaking. Fix or replace as necessary.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,213
Likes: 2
From: Cincinnati oh
Mine did the exact same thing Do ALL of these and it will work and the total cost will be under 250.00
Change your Plugs (with good ones)
New plug wires
New Fuel Filter
New fuel pump
Check ALL vaccume and Emissions lines and replace any that are old or cracked
Change yor PCV Valve
Oil Change
Clean the MAP sensor (they sell cleaner for it)
Spray / clean your throttle body (with throttle body cleaner NOT carb cleaner)
Change your Air filter
Flush your radiator
Check your Trans fluid Color
Change your Dist Cap and rotor button
Change your belt & hoses
You need a tune up and even if it does not "need" all this now it will. This will take no longer than a day and not cost you more than 250.00
Change your Plugs (with good ones)
New plug wires
New Fuel Filter
New fuel pump
Check ALL vaccume and Emissions lines and replace any that are old or cracked
Change yor PCV Valve
Oil Change
Clean the MAP sensor (they sell cleaner for it)
Spray / clean your throttle body (with throttle body cleaner NOT carb cleaner)
Change your Air filter
Flush your radiator
Check your Trans fluid Color
Change your Dist Cap and rotor button
Change your belt & hoses
You need a tune up and even if it does not "need" all this now it will. This will take no longer than a day and not cost you more than 250.00
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
From: Bruce WI
Mine had this also ( 1986) and I did all the basic stuff, wires/plugs/cap & rotor/ fuel filter/ checked for vacume leaks.....no better. Took to dealership and took it out with mechanic, the vette mechanic, he couldnt figure it out, suggested replacing EGR valve....no better. My uncle is a mechanic so tried him. He though it might be injectors, or pressure regulator. tried cleaning....no better. I was out of ideas so as a last effort replaced the injectors and regulator.....BINGO!
Might not be your fix but wanted to say you can fix it with alot of patience....I was going to give up and live with it many times but it was taking the fun out of having the car.
Good luck!
Might not be your fix but wanted to say you can fix it with alot of patience....I was going to give up and live with it many times but it was taking the fun out of having the car.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 3
From: Oxford CT
The FIX
Computer gave no codes.
Took of cap, to find no problems, and cleaned the metal tabs.
Pulled a plug to find it well used.
Replaced all plugs and she now runs like a champ !!!!!!
Thanks guys.
Computer gave no codes.
Took of cap, to find no problems, and cleaned the metal tabs.
Pulled a plug to find it well used.
Replaced all plugs and she now runs like a champ !!!!!!
Thanks guys.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 3
From: Oxford CT
the funny part is when I goth the car in oct 06 I bought plugs.
It looked to hard so I said screw it.
It really was easy. I didnt even need a swivel. I guess when you have to do some thing and take your time its not that bad !
It looked to hard so I said screw it.
It really was easy. I didnt even need a swivel. I guess when you have to do some thing and take your time its not that bad !