C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

383 build budget

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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 02:19 PM
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Default 383 build budget

Hey everyone I am about a year out from starting my L98 383 build but I was wondering roughly how much I should be budgeting. Keep in mind this will be a BUDGET build and I will be pulling and installing the motor myself. I am bugeting 900 for the machine work and short block assembly and 1000-1500 for the stroker kit and 300 more for consumables. Does this sound reasonable to everyone. I know this can't be exact and that there are alot of variables but i'm hoping this is close. Also what is everyones thoughts on porting my 113's vs. buying new? I couldn't spend more than 1200 on heads.
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 02:25 PM
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Machine work to block roughly $550. Have a great guy if youre interested, hes in the SFV.
I know someone who can port those 113s for ya.
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 02:37 PM
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wow that helps the hit to the wallet significantly. I will speak with you soon about the 113's and the machine shop
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by kowalski340
wow that helps the hit to the wallet significantly.
But don't forget, that's just for the block machining and prep. You still have balancing the rotating assembly, and shortblock assembly if the shop is going to do it for you.

you sometimes need to be cautious on the budget rotating assemblies. Many say they're balanced, but in fact they're often only pretty close and still require final balancing.
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 03:26 PM
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totally agree, you need to have it balanced. don't trust it out of the box. the cheap, strong 383 i've found is the scat 9000 crank, eagle i-beams and speed pro forged pistons. something like $800 if you price hunt. rods & crank are on ebay, pistons through summit. heads are a whole 'nother chat but you do have some choices that flow better than a 113 and cost around $1000. if you can use a vortech manifold the edelbrock e-tec 200 is cheap and the quality is good enough that you don't have to have the machine shop go through them when they are unpacked.
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 08:10 PM
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thanks for the reccomendations on parts. I already looked on ebay and found 6 inch eagle H-beam rods for 175 and a scat 9000 crank for 169 this changes things for me I'm in a much better mood now!!
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 08:22 PM
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What are you doing for cam/valvetrain, tuning, exhaust etc? I always double my estimate for the o buy the ways that are seemingly everywere. I figure if I don't have double the estimate budget I wait since something always seems to pop up....and my wife is more understanding of coming in under budget then when I don't.


Don't skimp on your heads, intake, exhaust, valvetrain, an exellent 355 will spank a good enough 383 every time. (power is in the top end end of the engine, increased displacement moves it further down the rev range IE power comes in at a lower rpm)


Good luck!

Mike

Last edited by aboatguy; Jul 7, 2008 at 08:25 PM.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 08:18 AM
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IMO, if you are not putting the assembly together yourself, get quotes from reputable motor builders/machinists. I think if you job it out to various guys it will end up costing more money. Remember good parts cost bucks, don't under budget and don't scimp on valve train.
I would at least buy a crate short block. It would be a done deal, including all machine work and assembly. Many good builders have decent prices that make it reasonable to purchase that way. First get quotes from guys who have a good reputation, Reher Morrison, Sonny Leonard, Mussi, mid range bucks guys would be Schmidt, Shafiroff, TPiS etc.
Again MO...
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