C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Bad ignition module symptoms

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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 11:03 AM
  #41  
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We may have covered this, but the pigtail (3-4 wires) coming out of the distributor, 6-8 inches long and very hard to see the next connection (behind engine) did you happen to check it? Hope I made that clear. At one time I happened to get careless (OK, more than once) When I clamped down the dizzy I accidentally clamped that pigtail underneath it. Crimped it...shorted it. Not saying you did that, but it's a section of wireing and connections I'd look at.
Old Sep 26, 2008 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rick lambert
We may have covered this, but the pigtail (3-4 wires) coming out of the distributor, 6-8 inches long and very hard to see the next connection (behind engine) did you happen to check it? Hope I made that clear. At one time I happened to get careless (OK, more than once) When I clamped down the dizzy I accidentally clamped that pigtail underneath it. Crimped it...shorted it. Not saying you did that, but it's a section of wireing and connections I'd look at.
....i never did check the "other" connection behind the engine but, do know that it is almost impossible to see or get at!..should i remove he distributor to get at it?
Old Sep 26, 2008 | 06:06 PM
  #43  
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I think I just pulled the cap. It is a mother, short piece.When I went to the dealer they sold me one from a caddy, at stealership price...$98.

You may fabricate a hook out of a coat hanger to try fishing it out, but be gentle.

Question for you, not related to this. But didn't you have a fuel pump issue, where it would prime, but didn't have enough volumn, or something like that?
Old Sep 26, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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...error deleted

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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 06:14 PM
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error..deleted...

Last edited by Da Mail Man; Sep 26, 2008 at 06:16 PM.
Old Sep 26, 2008 | 06:20 PM
  #46  
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**let me see if i can get this post right!

Originally Posted by rick lambert
I think I just pulled the cap. It is a mother, short piece.When I went to the dealer they sold me one from a caddy, at stealership price...$98.

You may fabricate a hook out of a coat hanger to try fishing it out, but be gentle.

Question for you, not related to this. But didn't you have a fuel pump issue, where it would prime, but didn't have enough volumn, or something like that?
**************************************** *
I think I just pulled the cap. It is a mother, short piece.When I went to the dealer they sold me one from a caddy, at stealership price...$98.
***ouch!....is there another connector back there i should be looking at/for?

You may fabricate a hook out of a coat hanger to try fishing it out, but be gentle.
***see above

Question for you, not related to this. But didn't you have a fuel pump issue, where it would prime, but didn't have enough volumn, or something like that?
***yes, that was a long time ago..it would prime but, would not give me the pressure required. i replaced the fuel pump and all is well..each time the car would not start (as being discussed) i usualy take a fuel pressure gauge and check pressure as a matter of s.o.p. .however, is not the cae in all the non-starts i have been getting...
Old Sep 26, 2008 | 06:47 PM
  #47  
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No, if you feel comfortable pulling the dist. go for it. then you'll be able to pull the pigtail up. Like I said it's a short piece 4-6 inches long, then plugs into another connection. I think it's important you at least check it for bad connections.
Old Sep 26, 2008 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by rick lambert
No, if you feel comfortable pulling the dist. go for it. then you'll be able to pull the pigtail up. Like I said it's a short piece 4-6 inches long, then plugs into another connection. I think it's important you at least check it for bad connections.
...no sweat on pulling the distributor as i had to do it to change the p/u coil...will give it a try and report back asap!...THANKS!!
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 08:49 PM
  #49  
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BTW, after you get it out make sure you ohm each wire on the pigtail and clean the connections good.
Good Luck.
Old Sep 27, 2008 | 01:10 PM
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For what it's worth, there's an article in November's Car Craft about HEI's, including basic troubleshooting and (at least unknown to me) that using dielectric - instead of thermal grease - will kill the Module. They found that some Auto Parts stores were passing off dielectric as thermal grease and got what was required at Radio Shack.
Old Sep 27, 2008 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SunCr
For what it's worth, there's an article in November's Car Craft about HEI's, including basic troubleshooting and (at least unknown to me) that using dielectric - instead of thermal grease - will kill the Module. They found that some Auto Parts stores were passing off dielectric as thermal grease and got what was required at Radio Shack.
...i am aware of that...i usually try not to use the stuff packaged with the modules and have long since purchased and have been all along using the correct compound..it turns out that it seems all the modules i brought back for refund under life warranty have been good and now with the above info posted the other day (200 amp jump start info), seems like there may very well be a bad connection behind and down past the distributor which i will check asap and report back......
Old Sep 28, 2008 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SunCr
For what it's worth, there's an article in November's Car Craft about HEI's, including basic troubleshooting and (at least unknown to me) that using dielectric - instead of thermal grease - will kill the Module. They found that some Auto Parts stores were passing off dielectric as thermal grease and got what was required at Radio Shack.
Are you saying that Thermal Grease is available at Radio Shack? Thanks, Al W.
Old Oct 10, 2008 | 10:55 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by rick lambert
We may have covered this, but the pigtail (3-4 wires) coming out of the distributor, 6-8 inches long and very hard to see the next connection (behind engine) did you happen to check it? Hope I made that clear. At one time I happened to get careless (OK, more than once) When I clamped down the dizzy I accidentally clamped that pigtail underneath it. Crimped it...shorted it. Not saying you did that, but it's a section of wireing and connections I'd look at.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

...ok, another "no start day" today!...so;

1...removed cap and wires

2...removed rotor

3...removed pigtail from distributor that connects directly to
ignition module (one wire to distributor case is ground) and left
other end connected to harness.

4...the wires are colored as follows (colors may be faded due to
age);

A) purple w/white tracer
B) orange w/black tracer
C) yellow
D) black w/red tracer TO DISTRIBUTOR CASE GROUND

MEASURED VOLTAGES WITH IGNITION ON;

YELLOW + PURPLE W/WHITE TRACER............................= 0.16V

YELLOW + ORANGE W/BLACK TRACER...........................= 0.00V

PURPLE W/WHITE TRACER + ORANGE W/BLACK TRACER....= 0.04V

ORANGE W/BLACK TRACER + BLACK W/RED TRACER (GRND)= 0.00V

YELLOW + BLACK W/RED TRACER =.................................0.20V

**************************************** ******
while i have not pulled apart the concealed connector as of yet, should there not be AT LEAST 12vdc on any one of these connections powering up the ignition module? also, could or is there an ignition fuse that guards the system? (maybe loose or bad connection at fuse). my manuals are not with me at this time...opinions?...THANKS!

Last edited by Da Mail Man; Oct 10, 2008 at 10:58 AM.
Old Oct 10, 2008 | 11:16 AM
  #54  
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Mine made the engine miss lightly when warmed up. One day, it died suddenly, taking my coil out with it.

Engine just quit, resulting in a crank, no-start condition.
Old Oct 10, 2008 | 11:19 AM
  #55  
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coil good..had new one in and went back to old one....same results...cki'ng voltages at connector with pigtail disconected now....suspect a dirty ground on wire as above to case.....however, that doesn't explain why no voltages at pigtail that connects to ignition module.....
Old Oct 10, 2008 | 12:08 PM
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UPDATE;

...cleaned all contacts or bent same...sanded ground on distributor as well as gnd. lug....started right up......will monitor.....
Old Oct 13, 2008 | 07:01 PM
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......so far so good........
Old Nov 6, 2010 | 11:14 AM
  #58  
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Stealth, I would put a capacitor on the power wire on the 3 wire plug that goes to the module in the distributor.
It sounds like you have a voltage spike occasionally when either shutting off the car or turning on the ignition switch, and over time, it finally burns out the power transistor inside the module.
Old Nov 6, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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check dist. terminal board?




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