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Just wondering what are the symptoms that a bad or damaged ignition module will cause? I have been getting code 42 meaning it could be the ignition module but my car still runs fine and strong, so im just curious. Thanks!!!
Mine began as car not starting when hot. Then one day in cruise it just quit.
I have had an on-going problem with ignition modules burning out about every 6 months on my 86 auto. I used to have an MSD 6A system on it and people on this forum told me this was the problem. But here I am 6 months later and my IM just burned out again.
Mine always goes bye, bye after I shut the car off and try to start it up later. It can be overnight, or I can stop to get gas, but it never has stopped while running. This problem has happened in the original distributor and in an Accel distributor that I purchased to solve the problem.
....there is a long thread i started a few weeks ago dealing with ignition modules..take it from a guy who's replaced 8 of them!...in my case the car would simply not start...crank but no spark and no start....while there are symptoms of rough running at times that could be related to the ignition module due to heat, most of the time the ignition module will simply be either bad or good, period....
...no power to coil, bad coil, bad pick-up coil in distributor, bad ignition module, missing contact "button" on inside of cap can result in no start/spark...
...i don't believe that long cranking times have to do with the ignition module as i have that very same problem since i have owned my car...i have since replaced my capacitor/condenser assembly inside my distributor (1988) and am waiting to see how long my 8th module lasts.....what i would reccomend is that you change out the module and see what happens..at least you will have a spare to carry with you should yours go out while you are out.....good luck....
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Hey Mail Man, thought you eliminated the Ignition module as the cuprit?
...yeah, i think i did but, only time will tell on this one...i have noticed that it starts a bit easier and i get a little less "whine" in the audio n the car...
Hey Mail Man, thought you eliminated the Ignition module as the cuprit?
My 86 needs a new IM every 6 months. It has never gone out while running. It always happens after I shut the car off and then try to restart or start it up first thing in the morning. I've replaced many, many in 9 years. Putting my system back to totally stock has not helped. Putting in a new distributor has not helped. So, I can eliminate the threads about the bad pick up coil, bad wiring harness and using aftermarket coils/MSD. Next??
My 86 needs a new IM every 6 months. It has never gone out while running. It always happens after I shut the car off and then try to restart or start it up first thing in the morning. I've replaced many, many in 9 years. Putting my system back to totally stock has not helped. Putting in a new distributor has not helped. So, I can eliminate the threads about the bad pick up coil, bad wiring harness and using aftermarket coils/MSD. Next??
....mine has never gone out while running either...it is when, after use, that it will crap out when i want to start it...i have over time and doing the usual tune ups and not throwing parts at it, have narrowed it down so far to be what i mentioned in an earlier threat here and again, only time will tell.....it is the ONLY part that i have either not tested or replaced....
....mine has never gone out while running either...it is when, after use, that it will crap out when i want to start it...i have over time and doing the usual tune ups and not throwing parts at it, have narrowed it down so far to be what i mentioned in an earlier threat here and again, only time will tell.....it is the ONLY part that i have either not tested or replaced....
As I recall you have tried changing your small wire harness inside the distributor. I hope that works for you. Unfortunately, I have replaced the whole distributor and still have the problem.
As I recall you have tried changing your small wire harness inside the distributor. I hope that works for you. Unfortunately, I have replaced the whole distributor and still have the problem.
...granted but, how do you know that you don't have a problem with the capacitor in the distributor?..that is the only thing i have not replaced....if it starts to crap out due to heat, etc., that could be a cause...as for me, that is the ONLY thing i have not tried...in a points car i had a long time ago, the capacitor shorted out and car would not start...i disconnected the capacitor/condenser and it started immediatly......good luck..
Last edited by Da Mail Man; Aug 8, 2008 at 11:25 AM.
Reason: word clarification
Stealthvette, when your ICM seemed to go bad did you take it into AutoZone or some other place to confirm it was bad? or just replaced it. If I were you 2 guys I'd also be checking connections on the ECM.
I think mailman replaced one of his ICM, then took it in and it checked out to be OK. Problem is, there is no way for US to check out the ICM, takes special equipment.
Stealthvette, when your ICM seemed to go bad did you take it into AutoZone or some other place to confirm it was bad? or just replaced it. If I were you 2 guys I'd also be checking connections on the ECM.
I think mailman replaced one of his ICM, then took it in and it checked out to be OK. Problem is, there is no way for US to check out the ICM, takes special equipment.
...that is correct..i never took any of my icm's (8 or 9) in to be tested as they were all under warranty..i DID take the last ac delco TWICE and the first time ran it through 3x's and it tested good..the second time i ran it through +/- 15x's and it also tested good...i DID however a long time ago, cleaned and checked all the connections to/from the icm....
...that is correct..i never took any of my icm's (8 or 9) in to be tested as they were all under warranty..i DID take the last ac delco TWICE and the first time ran it through 3x's and it tested good..the second time i ran it through +/- 15x's and it also tested good...i DID however a long time ago, cleaned and checked all the connections to/from the icm....
I have done the same. I would have to assume that the IM is the culprit because changing it is the only thing that gets the car running again. Any ideas why this is what works?