What is involved with replacing the trans shifter seal on 87 auto? does tranny need to be removed?

Thanks

 

I've heard there is a tool to do the job but I did mine in my '85 with a real small flat blade screwdriver. I just worked it around until I got a good bite on the inner part of the seal and then pried it out. It's no fun but can be done.

 

That's how I did mine when I took it out for the 700R4 rebuild. When you put it back in, make sure when it hits the ledge in the tranny case, you stop hitting it. And the metal side faces outwards when you go to put it in.

To replace, disconnect the shifter cable from the shifter linkage. Then remove the nut pictured. I'm not positive if you can remove and reinstall the seal with just that off because to reinstall you would need some sort of pipe to fit over the shifter selector to get the seal in properly. If you can't remove it or replace it with the selector rod (what the nut threads onto) still on, you have to drop the pan and remove the castle nut on the inside. You will see something that looks like a rooster's head and this will be pushed down by a thin curved piece of metal bolted to the valve body. Its not that hard to figure out once you're under there.



Rooster Head (Gold) - Don't pay attention to where the pick is pointing...


Valve Body Shift Selector Tensioned Thin Metal (attached via 1 bolt to valve body)


Lower right corner is where the shift selector business is. This is what it will look like when you take off the pan. Get a hand pump from Harbor Freight and put it down the filler tube and pump out as much as possible. Might as well change the filter and gasket while down there. Maybe swap out for a pan with a drain plug in it - I got this one because my stock pan was bent causing a fluid leak: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku. Its steel so it won't burst (just dent) and leave you stranded if hit like a cast aluminum one might. (That info borrowed from an old PeteK reply on a tranny pan post).


Unbolt this too so you can move the parking break lever around: Rooster head pushes down on that rod with the spring on it (pictured)that enables Park. That bracket guides the rod into the right place.


Here is the tool he speaks of (I didn't end up using it though - the bottom part looks like its to reinstall it so it goes in evenly and not askew)

Jonathan

 

Now shouldn't this be included in a reseal job? I am asking because I just had it resealed and it still leaks. After 3 trips back to shop (first time, bad pan gasket) second time(Tighten pan) Now he's telling me this shifter seal is bad. I have had enough, and just want to get it taken care of without paying another dime! I used this guy before, with no problems, and I really know zilch about transmissions. Just hoping to get some help here.

Thanks.

 

I think it should - it is an outer seal. The front pump, rear extension housing, speedo sensor, rear extension housing to rear of case, and shifter seal are all easily accessible for a tranny reseal by a transmission professional (especially true if the transmission was removed from the car). It is a cheap seal that should have been included in the job. He should have also known enough to torque the pan correctly and check for leaks himself before calling it finished. I don't know how he can call it a reseal job if it still leaks.

 

Yes, that is what I thought, hopefully this will take care of it. It was leaking from a few spots,all the others have stopped. Just not a very thorough job I guess.

 

If you want to drive to Philly, we can put it on a lift and I'll help you do it
Tony

 

Thanks Zorro, but will get him to resolve this issue. Will keep you in mind though.