L98 Fuel Line question
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 13
From: Dayton, Ohio
L98 Fuel Line question
I've been working on a header install, and it looks like I'm gonna have to reroute my fuel lines as the #2 tube is in contact with them.
The L98 lines have a short section of rubber hose
in them and they use an industrial style crimp connection. As the steel line meets the crimped connector, there's a flared section in the steel line that I believe is used as a stop when assembling these lines. It looks like a ring on the fuel line. I need to reroute the steel line as it exits the hose connector. If I make a new steel line that is routed correctly, do I need to duplicate this ring type of flare? If so, where
can I get the tool to duplicate this on the new line? I know there are other options available, but I'm short on cash, and bending new lines is more affordable than splicing in braided lines.
Thanks for your help.
The L98 lines have a short section of rubber hose
in them and they use an industrial style crimp connection. As the steel line meets the crimped connector, there's a flared section in the steel line that I believe is used as a stop when assembling these lines. It looks like a ring on the fuel line. I need to reroute the steel line as it exits the hose connector. If I make a new steel line that is routed correctly, do I need to duplicate this ring type of flare? If so, where
can I get the tool to duplicate this on the new line? I know there are other options available, but I'm short on cash, and bending new lines is more affordable than splicing in braided lines.
Thanks for your help.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 35,065
Likes: 0
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
I've been working on a header install, and it looks like I'm gonna have to reroute my fuel lines as the #2 tube is in contact with them.
The L98 lines have a short section of rubber hose
in them and they use an industrial style crimp connection. As the steel line meets the crimped connector, there's a flared section in the steel line that I believe is used as a stop when assembling these lines. It looks like a ring on the fuel line. I need to reroute the steel line as it exits the hose connector. If I make a new steel line that is routed correctly, do I need to duplicate this ring type of flare? If so, where
can I get the tool to duplicate this on the new line? I know there are other options available, but I'm short on cash, and bending new lines is more affordable than splicing in braided lines.
Thanks for your help.
The L98 lines have a short section of rubber hose
in them and they use an industrial style crimp connection. As the steel line meets the crimped connector, there's a flared section in the steel line that I believe is used as a stop when assembling these lines. It looks like a ring on the fuel line. I need to reroute the steel line as it exits the hose connector. If I make a new steel line that is routed correctly, do I need to duplicate this ring type of flare? If so, where
can I get the tool to duplicate this on the new line? I know there are other options available, but I'm short on cash, and bending new lines is more affordable than splicing in braided lines.
Thanks for your help.
PM me and I'll send the lines.
They cost me $150 to make up..make an offer. They are custom fit and will bolt right up, no headaches and very neat.
Last edited by jsup; Aug 5, 2008 at 06:57 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,290
Likes: 140
From: Salem NH
I've been working on a header install, and it looks like I'm gonna have to reroute my fuel lines as the #2 tube is in contact with them.
The L98 lines have a short section of rubber hose
in them and they use an industrial style crimp connection. As the steel line meets the crimped connector, there's a flared section in the steel line that I believe is used as a stop when assembling these lines. It looks like a ring on the fuel line. I need to reroute the steel line as it exits the hose connector. If I make a new steel line that is routed correctly, do I need to duplicate this ring type of flare? If so, where
can I get the tool to duplicate this on the new line? I know there are other options available, but I'm short on cash, and bending new lines is more affordable than splicing in braided lines.
Thanks for your help.
The L98 lines have a short section of rubber hose
in them and they use an industrial style crimp connection. As the steel line meets the crimped connector, there's a flared section in the steel line that I believe is used as a stop when assembling these lines. It looks like a ring on the fuel line. I need to reroute the steel line as it exits the hose connector. If I make a new steel line that is routed correctly, do I need to duplicate this ring type of flare? If so, where
can I get the tool to duplicate this on the new line? I know there are other options available, but I'm short on cash, and bending new lines is more affordable than splicing in braided lines.
Thanks for your help.
-- Joe
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 3
From: The Motor City
because of my intake (MRII) the fuel lines enter at the rear of the fuel rail and there was no need to have them run through the front of the motor (6-an earls ends and lightweight braided line).The lines come up between no.6 and 8 cyl., and give plenty of room.
If I understand you, the flairs you mention are for the o rings. You can also use adapters and go to -6an stuff instead of all pipe ends. Making your own w/a bender is easy enough but you will still want a flexable section in there to comp.the motor movement.
If I understand you, the flairs you mention are for the o rings. You can also use adapters and go to -6an stuff instead of all pipe ends. Making your own w/a bender is easy enough but you will still want a flexable section in there to comp.the motor movement.
Last edited by mseven; Aug 5, 2008 at 08:01 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 35,065
Likes: 0
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Looks like what I did. Except I took off the wheel well and ran the hoses behind the frame member. Nice and neat MSEVEN.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 3
From: The Motor City
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,290
Likes: 140
From: Salem NH
because of my intake (MRII) the fuel lines enter at the rear of the fuel rail and there was no need to have them run through the front of the motor (6-an earls ends and lightweight braided line).The lines come up between no.6 and 8 cyl., and give plenty of room.
If I understand you, the flairs you mention are for the o rings. You can also use adapters and go to -6an stuff instead of all pipe ends. Making your own w/a bender is easy enough but you will still want a flexable section in there to comp.the motor movement.
If I understand you, the flairs you mention are for the o rings. You can also use adapters and go to -6an stuff instead of all pipe ends. Making your own w/a bender is easy enough but you will still want a flexable section in there to comp.the motor movement.
I'm probably gonna sell it though. Thinking of using a victor EFI with a 90mm monoblade.
-- Joe
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,957
Likes: 706
From: WI
I've been working on a header install, and it looks like I'm gonna have to reroute my fuel lines as the #2 tube is in contact with them.
The L98 lines have a short section of rubber hose
in them and they use an industrial style crimp connection. As the steel line meets the crimped connector, there's a flared section in the steel line that I believe is used as a stop when assembling these lines. It looks like a ring on the fuel line. I need to reroute the steel line as it exits the hose connector. If I make a new steel line that is routed correctly, do I need to duplicate this ring type of flare? If so, where
can I get the tool to duplicate this on the new line? I know there are other options available, but I'm short on cash, and bending new lines is more affordable than splicing in braided lines.
Thanks for your help.
The L98 lines have a short section of rubber hose
in them and they use an industrial style crimp connection. As the steel line meets the crimped connector, there's a flared section in the steel line that I believe is used as a stop when assembling these lines. It looks like a ring on the fuel line. I need to reroute the steel line as it exits the hose connector. If I make a new steel line that is routed correctly, do I need to duplicate this ring type of flare? If so, where
can I get the tool to duplicate this on the new line? I know there are other options available, but I'm short on cash, and bending new lines is more affordable than splicing in braided lines.
Thanks for your help.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,306
Likes: 242
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
I just manhandled mine, till they were out of the way.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,374
Likes: 86
From: Corbin KY
If you are going to have to mess with the fuel lines due to clearance then I would just replace the entire line as shown above using braided line. The rubber hoses on the fuel lines are a known for breaking and spraying fuel all over the headers causing a fire.
If anyplace you need to spend money this would be one that I would not overlook.
If anyplace you need to spend money this would be one that I would not overlook.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 13
From: Dayton, Ohio
j-sup, I returned your pm. Got some interest here.
SCCA Vette, I agree, I'm not gonna put in junk.
My thoughts are to go to an industrial supplier and change out the
rubber lines used for engine movement. Then, to
bend up some steel lines made to fit and be done.
The ring type flare I originally asked about is at the end of the line where the collar crimps the rubber line to the steel.
Thanks for the replies, I appreciate the help.
