C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 07:01 PM
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i bought an 87 vette from a guy that didnt appreciate it and now im paying for it. the car ran pretty good at first but now when i give it gas it sounds like its flooding and slows down. it keeps getting worse and i cant find anyone to run test to find out the problem.
just as a background on this car, the interior is screwed, the top has been painted, the car has a homemade paint job, and he never replaced the fluids. i have so many things i need to do to this car but dont know where to begin. please help with this one and im sure i will ask more later.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 07:09 PM
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More details please.

Auto or manual?

Any engine modifications?

How many miles on the odometer?
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 07:17 PM
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First, start with some general maintenance.

Change the spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, O2 sensor, air filter, fuel filter, oil, oil filter, coolant and thermostat then check the ohms on the fuel injectors (should all read within .05 of each other) and check fuel pressure (should read around 45-48 psi).

Also, you can read the trouble codes by jumpering pins A and B on the OBD1 diagnostic port under the driver side hush panel.

Any competent mechanic should be able to diagnose the problem if you don't have the time to do the above.

Last edited by GKK; Aug 8, 2008 at 07:23 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 07:40 PM
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no mods have been done. its an auto and the odometer reads 180,000 but the guy said his mech screwed up and its only SUPPOSE to be 18,000.
i have had all fluids flushed and had the fuel system cleaned. i gave it a full tune up and replaced to O2 sensor.

i have done everything except thermostat, check the ohms on the fuel injectors, and check fuel pressure.

its hard to find a competant mech with the right tools around here. plus problems with cash flow so most of the work is gonna be done by me and my friend (who is competant but lacking tools).
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 07:57 PM
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What was the condition of the old transmission fluid? What was on the magnet?

Does it do this in neutral with the car sitting still or only under a load while driving?

When you press the gas pedal, the computer is supposed to sense this with the throttle position sensor. You can back-probe it with the key on run and engine off. You should find a ground, a constant 5Volt DC and an output wire that varies smoothly from about zero volts throttle closed to about 5 volts wide open throttle.

Also, the timing needs to advance. This will require the CPS, cam position sensor to work. It is under the distributor. I don't know the test procedure for the CPS but I'm sure the L98 guys will post it or it's in the archives.

Inspect the vacuum lines too.
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by carolinacamelkiller
the odometer reads 180,000 but the guy said his mech screwed up and its only SUPPOSE to be 18,000.
hmm...that's quite a difference! In the earlier years with the mechanical/electric odometer you can tell if the odmeter has been tampered with by looking for the presence of little silver rings between each of the number reels. If the silver rings are present, this is a sign that the reels have been tampered with.
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 94z07fx3

Also, the timing needs to advance. This will require the CPS, cam position sensor to work. It is under the distributor. I don't know the test procedure for the CPS but I'm sure the L98 guys will post it or it's in the archives.

Inspect the vacuum lines too.
Cam position sensor on a L98 ???????????
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Spankyellow
Cam position sensor on a L98 ???????????
The EST? glad you could translate for me
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by carolinacamelkiller
the odometer reads 180,000 but the guy said his mech screwed up and its only SUPPOSE to be 18,000.
yeah his mechanic screwed up and didn't change it for him.

With a sh!tty interior and "homemade" paint job theres no way its only been driven 18k. When you catch people trying to pull things like that it makes you wonder if everything else they say is BS too...
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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Don't buy ANY parts yet!!!

Get a compression gauge, a fuel pressure gauge for starters. Check the squeeze on the holes, and check fuel pressure - static, idle with vacuum on FPR, idle with vacuum off FPR. Never mind the pedal down pressure test yet.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by carolinacamelkiller
i have done everything except thermostat, check the ohms on the fuel injectors, and check fuel pressure.
It takes Fuel, Air and Spark to make an engine run. That's why it's important to know if the engine is getting enough fuel from the fuel pump and the injectors are spraying the fuel.

Make sure the timing is set to 6* btc with the est (tan/black) wire by the brake booster unplugged and make sure the engine gets spark.

Also, what was the condition of the old spark plug electrodes that were replaced. They should've all been a tan color (no black oil or burnt electrodes).

You have to make sure all the Basics are working correctly before further diagnosing.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 11:57 AM
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Best thing you can invest in is a Factory service manual, year specific, about $100. for both manuals. Second, sounds like the previous owner fed you a line of crap about mileage. Other than a general tune up, I'd be checking the coolant temp sensor, and the throttle position sensor. And with 180,000 miles on it I'd also be checking the cats.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 05:52 PM
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thanks fellas for all the ideas. as soon as i get time and money i will be knocking them out asap. yes i know the guy is bs ing me. im also having a hard time getting the title from him, but my military training will soon fix that problem. i was also wondering if there are any motors that can be swapped with ease. i will be keeping all the original parts, just in case, but i dont plan on getting rid of this car ever.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 05:57 PM
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all the fluids were not in good condition and they said it seemed as if they were never changed. as far as the magnet goes i have no clue, they never mentioned that. yes it does it in neutral as well as driving but more when im driving.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 12:37 AM
  #15  
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just curious if it was as you described why did you buy it? paint job 180000 etc etc??? are you trying to save it with that many miles?? you would think a valve job is in order? compression is low? timing chain wore out? flat camshaft? stuck lifter ?omg what could it be?basically it needs an overhual just so many miles. But on the good side if he ran it on original fluids then you should contact mobil one and tell them i have 180k on 1 oil change.:lo l:and man I am pissed off here i've been changing my oil every year or 3k what ever comes first...........
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 08:34 AM
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Is the "service engine soon" light on, while driving ??
As mentioned, check for stored trouble codes.
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/No...it%20Check.pdf
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:27 AM
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yes i know the car needs alot of work and i shouldve waited to find a better car but everything i owned was taken from me and this was all i could afford. plus the vetter is my dream car and after 3 yrs of people trying to kill me i think i deserved to have my dream. plus this way i will learn more about the car if ihaveto fix it.
and no he didntdrivethecar 180000 miles on one oil change,he bought the carfrom someone else. either way its my car, imkeeping it, and im gonna fix everything in time.
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