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To be up front, I am installing a 90-92 TPI Speed Density in my 33 Chevy coupe. I found that the Headman C4 headers fit the car great and give me perfect ground clearance.
In "theory" the O2 sensors should be located approx 12 inches of the heads?..the Headman headers have the O2 bung about 2 feet downstream. Before I mess with a 4 four wire modification (heated) O2 sensor...just wondering if you folks with C4 TPI engines and single wire O2 sensors are experiencing any problems with aftermarket headers.
Thanks..I'm just going to mock up the driveline with a single wire O2 for now.
I'll worry about the O2 situation when it hits the street next Spring. Emissions and CAT will be eliminated..and I may install another single wire O2 on the passenger side collector with a toggle..so I can monitor either side.
It was OK in town, but 2 times on road trips, 100 miles at 75 mph. the O2 sensor fouled. Can not explain the why (maybe at steady cruise the O2 did not stay hot enough?) and only know that the heated sensor has never failed.
I've run a single-wire in my Collector for 4-5 years with no problems. Folks say that useing Wrap will rust out your Headers; most use Coated pipes. I love the early Chevys too.
When the pipes cooled off at idle, the unheated O2 on my headers ( 9" from collector flange ) dropped out of closed loop .
Would not heat up enough to go CL at cold start idle.
FWIW;
The heated sensor for my WB installed on the test pipe in place of the main cat works perfect all the time.
where you are you will get better operation with efi/headers using a 4-wire heated sensor (from a 96 chevy corsica or many others)...4 wires are better than 3 due to dedicated ground wire on 4-wire, rare backfeed on 3-wire system due to poor ground will confuse the ecm.
I've run a single-wire in my Collector for 4-5 years with no problems. Folks say that useing Wrap will rust out your Headers; most use Coated pipes. I love the early Chevys too.
I'm pretty sure anybody in Texas could do it. In colder areas, not so much. The O2 sensor definitely neads to get hot for proper function.
I used a 3 wire, how do you hook up the 4 wire? Why does a 3 wire confuse the ECM? I am going to replace mine, so now would be a good time to switch if needed.
imagine bunches of electrons being fed into the "heating" element of the o2 sensor at 12v, all looking to go to "home ground" thru the single "ground' wire of a three wire assy...NO wire is a "perfect" conductor, and that "ground" wire has "some" resistance -- so some of your "electron crowd" will find another route to "home" = the "signal" wire from the sensor "working stuff" to the ecm that is "supposed" to show the ecm between o.2 to 1 v...can/does happen, ecm is baffled, maybe even "smoked" by excessive "signal" voltage if that "single" wire is high resistance due to breaks in the conductor or corrosion at termination --similar prob is why your instrument panel lights have a "separate" wire from gauges, and why the 4-wire o2 sensor with separate dedicated ground wires for heating and for signal is best.
I'm pretty sure anybody in Texas could do it. In colder areas, not so much. The O2 sensor definitely neads to get hot for proper function.
Nope, when I used stock computer had to go to a 3 wire to stay in closed loop. On start up and periods of idle, it would go open. Never had a problem with 3 wire and my computer. Extremely easy to wire up. Black wire goes to computer and either white wire goes to switched power source and the other to ground.
4 wire has 12V supply and seperate ground for heater whereas 3 wire uses common ground for sensor and heater
If the sensor needs the ground wire for other than just heating, how does the one-wire stock O2 work at all? What I mean is, if the ground is shared, wouldn't a non-heated O2 need two wires? Just trying to understand.