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FYI - I just did this job tonite on my 95 LT1. With the correct puller you do not have to unbolt and lift the engine. You do need to disconnect the PS line that is in the way and lift it up.
Also, it helps to have a little KROIL on hand.
One other thing - be aware that many underdrive and aluminum pulleys out there do not incorporate the elastomer ring - thus they eliminate the damping function and that is bad.
You should look before you just something because your post is flawed,and incorrect 86PACER is correct
$76 or $40-60 on fleabay ,so you go ahead and pay the LT1 tax if you wish.
You should look before you just something because your post is flawed,and incorrect 86PACER is correct
$76 or $40-60 on fleabay ,so you go ahead and pay the LT1 tax if you wish.
Ok I may be incorrect and glad I am I spent a lot of time searching a couple of years back for one and no one had it.If the search engine worked you could see the discussions about it. There were some that were close but none that fit a "Y" body just the "B" body. The "Y" body is thinner. That pic looks like a "B" body one. When I did a search last night on that part number here is what came up with
Anothe FYI on this topic is even though the LT1s were supposed to be internally balanced some of the balancers were "adjusted" by drilling them at the factory look on the back of the balancer. Wether this was done to balance the balancer or not it was verified that some were drilled to balance the engine.
Last edited by Redeasysport; Aug 19, 2008 at 11:53 AM.
I paid $150 for it. But my question still stands. Does the Pulley I bought have the damper built in or does it still need to be installed behind the pulley. Keep in mind I have a 94 Lt1.
I paid $150 for it. But my question still stands. Does the Pulley I bought have the damper built in or does it still need to be installed behind the pulley. Keep in mind I have a 94 Lt1.
If it has a rubber ring between the center and outer ring it MAY be a damper although I have never seen one with that type of center.Do you have a link from where it came from?
From what I see there it does have the Nitride ring. The only issue may be as I stated above is that the one it replaces is a "zero balanced" balancer. The LT1 engine is said to be internally balanced but actually has weights on the flex plate that accomplishes that. A few were additionally balanced at the factory by drilling the hub but not the majority by all means. It is hard to tell until it is replaced and the the OEM ones have weight holes around it that can be added to if any vibrations occur. There was a whole lot of very good info from a couple of years back on this in the archives. So your may be just fine but if it isn't you now know why.
Another FYI on this topic is even though the LT1s were supposed to be internally balanced some of the balancers were "adjusted" by drilling them at the factory look on the back of the balancer. Wether this was done to balance the balancer or not it was verified that some were drilled to balance the engine.
That is a subject of debate and a whole new bucket of worms.
Listen since you're a newb and have not been here long enough to remember the page after page diatribes on this issue I will forgive your ignorance. If you care to provide some info on who says it isn't I will be more than happy to read it. All of the info is in the archives. That is why the HB is "zero balanced". That is also why when flywheels are changed close attention is needed to match the weights on the flexplates. Internally balance is a little misleading as there are actually a few weights on the flexplate.It is actually "neutral balanced"
Listen since you're a newb and have not been here long enough to remember the page after page diatribes on this issue I will forgive your ignorance. If you care to provide some info on who says it isn't I will be more than happy to read it. All of the info is in the archives. That is why the HB is "zero balanced". That is also why when flywheels are changed close attention is needed to match the weights on the flexplates. Internally balance is a little misleading as there are actually a few weights on the flexplate.It is actually "neutral balanced"
I have been on this earth long enough to forget more than you ever knew. I have been wrenching SBCs for forty years. Twenty of that on Corvettes.
I mean no disrespect to the Forum but it is not the repository of all knowledge. The web is full of balancing instructions on LTXs. With the advent of the one piece RMS in 86, the crankshafts have required external balancing partly due to the reduced size of the rear journal.
Try defending your bogus posts instead of attacking me. You made the statement now answer the question.
The LTX is neutrally balanced on the front and externally balanced in the rear. It is not internally balanced. If it was, the flywheel/flexplate would be neutrally balanced.
Internally balanced is not only misleading, it is false. Spanked twice in one day. You should have quit while you were behnd.
I have been on this earth long enough to forget more than you ever knew. I have been wrenching SBCs for forty years. Twenty of that on Corvettes.
I mean no disrespect to the Forum but it is not the repository of all knowledge. The web is full of balancing instructions on LTXs. With the advent of the one piece RMS in 86, the crankshafts have required external balancing partly due to the reduced size of the rear journal.
Try defending your bogus posts instead of attacking me. You made the statement now answer the question.
The LTX is neutrally balanced on the front and externally balanced in the rear. It is not internally balanced. If it was, the flywheel/flexplate would be neutrally balanced.
Internally balanced is not only misleading, it is false. Spanked twice in one day. You should have quit while you were behnd.
As I said it was a little misleading Mr He Who Knows All. And corrected it to "Neutral Balanced" via the flex plate on the last post. Excuse me for using the incorrect word. What makes me think you know anything as you provided no proof to back up what you said either.And I doubt you are older than I am by the way especially by the way you act.
As far as the HB goes we shall see You could get a "F or B' body one for less but the "Y" body one is thinner can you tell me why or why a "F or B" body LT1 balancer won't work? 2 yrs ago they were unavailable after market period and I am glad if they are now because there were few options to replace them.Oh and I guess I should correct myself again they are not a HB but really a damper instead.
Last edited by Redeasysport; Aug 19, 2008 at 08:41 PM.
All Gen I and Gen II SBCs use a neutrally balanced damper, with the exception of the 3.75" stroke, 400 CID engine. Similarly, all SBCs used neutrally balance flywheels or flexplates (other than the 400) until 1986 when Chevy went to the one piece rear main seal. The new seal necessitated a revised flywheel/flexplate flange that wouldn't accommodate enough external weight to use a neutrally balanced flywheel or flexplate. It is really just that simple.
The rotating mass of an engine must be balanced. Not neutrally balanced as you state, as that is a bit redundant.
In the case of the LTX, it is done via the flywheel/flexplate. That is called external balancing. Anything else just muddies the waters.
Spin that. I will be happy to compare AARP cards with you.
I have been polite but direct with you. What age is that acting like?
Ya know I just got done reading all of your posts. You seem to really have a problem.You run around making smart azzhat comments to people and offer very litle useful help to anyone. There is a big difference between trying to help someone and running around trying to show your superiority. This thread was about the damper I answered to the best of my knowledge what I knew to be true. If I was wrong I admitted it immediately and if you go back and look at the link I posted on the Dorman part # you will see the picture is definately not an LT1 damper.
I have an idea since you seem to think the forum is not a repository of information and you know so much more than we mere mortals why not start your own forum?
Oh by the way my car gets 28-30mpg on flat highways do I get a for that like you insulted the people with on your poll? What's the matter doesn't your car run right and get the same kind of milage the rest of us do? You ought to get it fixed then.
FYI - I just did this job tonite on my 95 LT1. With the correct puller you do not have to unbolt and lift the engine. You do need to disconnect the PS line that is in the way and lift it up.
Also, it helps to have a little KROIL on hand.
One other thing - be aware that many underdrive and aluminum pulleys out there do not incorporate the elastomer ring - thus they eliminate the damping function and that is bad.
i tried doing this job ths weekend and could not take out the old damper. can you specife which is the correct Puller? send me model number or part number or something i can use to identify it?
i tried doing this job ths weekend and could not take out the old damper. can you specife which is the correct Puller? send me model number or part number or something i can use to identify it?
thanks in advance...
On the LT1/LT4 stock damper/hub assembly, you shouldn't need a puller for the damper, just to pull the hub.
There should be three bolts holding the damper to the hub, on my '92 you just take these bolts out and remove the damper by hand -- although, I have heard of some where the damper was rusted on the hub.
I should point out, my stock '92 LT1 damper came off without raising the engine. After I put on an LT4 damper, I have to raise the engine to get it out -- the LT4 damper is slightly thicker.
Tom Piper
Last edited by Tom Piper; Aug 25, 2008 at 11:35 AM.