Does anyone make a direct replacement valve that is as light or lighter and flows better than the stock LT4 valves? The stock ones are pretty light (since they are sodium filled I think) and are designed to flow prety well. But they are pretty thin and look like after a valve job they will be like a razor edge. Should I just buy stock ones or are there better ones from Manley, Ferrea or others but keeping the stock dimentions?

 

^^^^^Top

 

Hello,
I think Manley makes a set of hollow filled valves that are a little larger 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust like the old 375 H.P. 1970 F.I. LT1 heads, not sure if it is Manley but I am sure that there are replacement valves. Email MEZ he has had his LT4 heads tricked out. :chevy :cheers: :seeya
P.S. What is the G.M. part# for the Hot Cam?

 

The LT4 valves are about 30% lighter than LT1 valves because to the hollow stems. The sodium fill is added to the exhaust valve only to help control heat. Its not needed on the intake side.

I kept my stock valves when I had the heads ported. Don't fix what is not broken.


Tom

 

I know they are better valves but since a new set is around $350 If I could get something better for 500 I'd spend the extra money for a few more HP. If we went by the motto "Don't fix it if it is not broken" We would all be driving stock slow cars!!!!


[Modified by RichS, 12:10 PM 1/4/2002]

 

I used Ferrea valves in my build up. They are a little heavy though. Not sure how they compare to the Manley as far as weight goes, but I was assured the Ferrea are some of the best valves out there.

 

Cartek, used Manley valves in my heads.

 

If we went by the motto "Don't fix it if it is not broken" We would all be driving stock slow cars!!!!

:D Very well said!!!

Hopefully Chris @ Speed Demon will reply. I'm sure he could give us an essay about valves.

 

Alot of people told me to stay away from the LT4 valves....They didn't think too highly of them..

89'Bowtie

 

The stock LT4 valves are good valves, no question - they are lightweight for ease of valvetrain control. I wouldn't buy a new set of them though if you needed new valves though (if that puts things in perspective).

You can gain a good bit of flow by changing out the valves - at low lift flow the valve is more important than bowl work even - since that is mostly what the incoming air stream "sees". Once the lift starts increasing though the valve becomes less important and the bowlwork more. So you really need a good job done on both. There are tons of "tricks" you can do with the valves/valveseats to get more flow - from the mundane - like better valve jobs (stock vs. 3 angle vs. 5 angle, etc.), proper lapping (you'd be suprised how many skimp on this) to more exotic (full radius valve job, oversized valve seats, exotic back-cuts, custom valveguides/narrow stem'd valves), etc. Like anything else it's just a matter of what your goals and priorities are.

As for what valves are good - Ferrea was mentioned above, and that is our choice. We have always used them and been very pleased with them. They *are* a bit more expensive than other brands. As Vette92 pointed out they are also a bit heavier (the Severe Duty ones). This can be good and bad - good for longevity, bad for valvetrain control - but it's a simple matter still to control the valvetrain - it's just another factor that needs to be considered when setting everything up.

 

[QUOTE]If we went by the motto "Don't fix it if it is not broken" We would all be driving stock slow cars!!!!

:D Very well said!!!
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You have a point......

When I had my LT4 heads ported, I did not see any sense in replacing the OEM valves with aftermarket units. Is that better??