I have purchased a stock 89 vette. Wonderful condition. I took it to a "vette specialist" for a baseline check and i am not sure i am too happy with him.

1) Car has and is starting to show strong signs of "hard starts" only when cold. Fuel pump goes on (i have read some of the threads) and it takes about 2 cranks to get her going. Where (if i should) get a tool that "reads the codes"? or do i just do that at an auto zone type place

2) I have the stock chip in and have a Hypertech Thermomaster PowerChip. I have no idea if the thermostat was modified to the 160 degree - is this worth it to change the chip and thermostat?

3) What other quick mods can i do, specifically air intake (or others), to enhance the performance? Looking for more boost off the line. Below is the specs of my vette

L98 350 V8 5.7L Automatic
2.59 Rear Axle Gear Ratio (GM1)

4) Any other suggestions for performance would be greatly appreciated keep in mind i am no mechanic and have limited tools but have a little money to purchase some to get through at least the next two years.

 

Welcome to the Forum!

Check the fluids then drive the car for awhile(month) first...to see what you got.

Your car is an OBD1 Ecm in it make sure you get a reader that does OBD1
Order a '89 corvette FSM(Field Service Manual) from Helms Industries buy new or used on e-bay.

Forget about the Hypertech chip for now.

Mods:
Get a "free flowing" oil style air filter
Install some free flowing mufflers & cats.

 

1) get a fuel pressure gauge and a multi-meter. Check fuel pressure and check for leak down. Also ohm out all 8 injectors warm and cold.

2) don't waste your money on the Hypercrap and leave the thermostat alone for now.

3) click on my profile and look at my mods. They are low cost or free and work. Exhaust is the best boost per dollar if you choose parts carefully.

4) Look into changing your gears to the 3.07 performance ratio. It will give you a nice boost off the line.

 

I agree on changing major fluids & filters and leave the "chip" alone.
Some "free" mods:
-cut lid w/ K&N air filter
-160deg T-stat & fan switch
-toss the "frisbee" from the front of the WP pulley (see my site)
-cut back spark plugs (on my site)
-inspect the exhaust to see what you have; this is an expensive area but changes here give nice power gains.

For a real SOTP boost (again a bit expensive) look to the A4:
-2,400rpm TC
-TransGo shift kit

Use can use a paper clip across ALDL pins A&B (upper right) to pull codes. A timing light, fuel pressure gauge and DMM are very useful tools and the FSM is indespensable.

 

Thanks guys:

1) where do i get an OBD1 reader (i am really green with all of this stuff)

2) cut lid w/ K&N air filter: what is "cut lid"?

3) Get a "free flowing" oil style air filter??

 

I can at least answer number 1. You don't need a 'reader' to scan the computer.

65Z01's response with the paper clip was good, but he should've taken into consideration your new guy status. You can get the red 'warning light' in the dash to flash all the codes to you. It's kind of a morse code thing. There's a 'welcome' sequence, then it flashes the codes three or so times for each code, then it goes to the next code and so on and then it finishes with the welcome code.

There's a connector under the dash that's easy to get to. You jump the wires with a paper clip and the 'bad' codes start coming up after the welcome sequence.

That's why you need the service manual. The factory manual recommended by Engle has all the codes and the trouble shooting to go along with it. Some of the more complex ones, need a scan tool and other tools to figure out the problem (multimeter and test light especially helpful). The manual is very detailed and specific. The Haynes manual, while not nearly as thorough, has some good advice and photo's as well.

Even if you're not a mechanic, at least you'll know what's going on. Educate yourself and you will come across much more knowledgeable when you do go to the mechanic. The factory manual is pretty educational too, explaining what a particular system does and why. I concur on the power chip too. Fix the problems first.

 

i've had my 89 for about a year. when i first got it, it started acting like it was hard to start. i started with a tune-up. plugs, wires, cap and rotor button. i also had the ignition module checked out while i was in there. they can check it at the parts store. this seemed to have help my car. my wires and plugs looked like they had never been changed! it may help your car.

 

Welcome! I have a 88 convertible that is very similar to your Vette.

The hypertech chip is basically a stock chip that turns your cooling fan on at 175 F. If your engine runs hot a 160 thermostat and the hypertech chip could help. I ran one for 2 years without any problems.

I would start to look at some simple things that could cause hard starting when cold. Your fuel pump and filter could cause that.

You can add a few HP by opening up the intake and exhaust. Both are very restrictive.

I've had my Vette for almost 6 years. I'm still looking for ways to improve performance. The best advice I can give you is; have fun driving it!

 

Good advice.

 

For what it's worth, I've owned my '89 since new and it was a hard start from the Factory. A new set of injectors (cheapo Accels) cured that (but it took me about 13 years to figure it out). I could fill up a couple of pages of everything that's needed attention over the last 19 years (and 60,000 miles), but I recommend that you go through the basics before you try to modify or change anything. I've never had a failure with basic tuneup parts - plugs, wires etc and most of this stuff will outlive any car with electronic fuel injection. A scanner is a good recommendation because that will give you an overview of what's going on. I would pay attention to fluids - particularly coolant. The achilles heel of these early aluminum head motors is the head gaskets and most let loose at #7 usually between 25,000 and 50,000 miles with the '89 seeming to have the highest number of failures. Crappy looking coolant is a symptom and shouldn't be ignored. As to the Service Manual, it's handy, but has several mistakes that were corrected by Bulletins and the schematics were updated (correctly) with the Electrical Supplement, so it's a good idea to order that. If you know nothing about how it works, I recommend you buy Ben Watson's Chevy Fuel Injection which will give you everything you need to figure it out - including how to diagnose your next Toyota, as little has really changed with this stuff over the last 20 years; ie, there are no new killer apps out there making this stuff run.

 

1st, welcome! Glad you could join.

*edit; ah, SunCr mentioned the colant deal already-sorry-

2nd, if your engine has had no major work done to it, flush the coolant ASAP and put in fresh stuff. Be good about changing it out.
Our cars had an issue with the head gaskets from the factory. They have a chemical reaction between the aluminum heads and the iron block facilitated by the coolant.

3rd, what state are you in? Do you have emissions testing to comply with? This helps determine your future mods.

Give consideration to getting a more free flowing exhaust system on the car. The stock system is a little restrictive.

Be careful adding additives in the with the fuel. Our stock injectors are sensitive to certain things.

Clean your mass air flow wires. (remove the rear screen and be very very gentle with the wires)

You can do easy simple cost-effective mods to the transmission for better performance. I have a 6 speed manual, so I'll let someone else describe these in better detail.

to you.

 

The responses have been great. I just ordered a field service manual.

Now i think i need to take advice and really start inspecting my vehicle.

I am in michigan so we can smog up the state with no concern but it sounds like need to investigate what i have.

Plugs/fuel filter and distributor cap were replaced in 06 and then the car sat for 1.5 years. The ECM and Coolant Temp Sensor were replaced last month.

I am worried about the coolant though and i think that is my first mission. Can i trust a GM dealer to take care of this? I have no faith in american dealers for I typically drive a honda. my wife and I have just been dealing with morons at the local GM dealer. Any suggestions, i would rather not drain and flush on my own.

As for the "paperclip" trick - do i do that with the car running or just have the key in the "on position"?

 

also is there anyway to tell if the thermostat was changed with the 160 degree one? how do i know if it is stock or upgraded?

 

re: paperclip
you can short out the "A" and "B" terminals of the diagnostic port with the paperclip and observe the orange Service engine soon light.
It will blink the "12" code 3 times.
One slow blink, then two quick blinks.

Then whatever codes are stored will be "blinked" out.
3 quick blinks, pause 3 more quick blinks = code 33.
I believe there are only forty some odd codes(it's been awhile don't remember how many exactly...someone correct me please)

With the A & B terminals shorted out and the key on but engine off, it will tell you the codes(if any).

If the engine is on, it will tell you when/if the oxygen sensor/computer goes into closed loop mode.

The thermostat has it's degree rating/value stamped into the bottom of the copper seat. Unfortunately, you have to remove it from the car to see this.

 

Thanks 89 Paul in Cal

If the engine is on, it will tell you when/if the oxygen sensor/computer goes into closed loop mode.

What is the above going to tell me?

 

The computer operates the engine under 3 conditions:
open loop
closed loop and
"limp home" mode.

Typically, when you start the car, it is in open loop mode.
When the car comes up to operating temp and all is well, it goes into closed loop.
If there is something wrong, it will go into limp home mode where it is just barely running.

I believe the computer also goes into open loop when you floor the accelerator pedal also known as "WOT" or wide open throttle.

 

With ign Off, remove the cover from the ALDL (under hush panel to right of steering wheel), insert the ends of the paper clip into ALDL pins A&B, turn the key On and count SES flashes.
When the second set of "12"s has flashed three times, turn the key Off, remove the paper clip and install the ALDL cover.

Come back here with any trouble codes for analysis.