C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Tranny pan torque

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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 07:45 PM
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Default Tranny pan torque

What is the torque value for the bolts on the tranny pan? Can not find in FSM
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 07:56 PM
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For the 700R4, my '91 FSM says it is 11 N-m or 97 in-lbs. When I rebuilt mine, I spoke to Dana at ProBuilt Automatics, who supplied my rebuild kit and Vigilante TC and helped me tremendously throughout the rebuild, he said 97 in-lbs was a lot and recommended I tighten only to 65-75 in-lbs. Whatever torque value you choose, make sure to tighten all to a lower torque first and go all around the pan. Then go to the final torque value. You might want to run all the bolts through a die if you haven't already and re-tap the case holes. Start the bolts off by hand too so you don't cross-thread the aluminum tranny case threads.

Jonathan
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 08:08 PM
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'86 FSM says 11 N-m = 8 ft-lb

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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 11:07 PM
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Default torque

I wouldn't tighten them any more than 50 inch Lbs.
Look up torque specs on Google, and print the torque specs for different bolts made of different materials based upon the diameter of the bolt for future reference....There will be nut torques as well.
Remember when possible, torque the nut not the bolt.
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
I wouldn't tighten them any more than 50 inch Lbs.
Look up torque specs on Google, and print the torque specs for different bolts made of different materials based upon the diameter of the bolt for future reference....There will be nut torques as well.
Remember when possible, torque the nut not the bolt.
This thread reminds me that on the last trans fluid/filter change on my L86 Coupe, one of the original pan bolts broke(head broke off clean,level with bottom of the trans/gasket case)!? My tech was using a small air ratchet - I assume the bolt/head got over-torqued? Rather than take a chance of the trans/case gasket surface getting 'buggered' by trying to drill out/remove the stub - we just put a new gasket on the pan, and carefully tighten up all of the other/remaining trans-pan bolts. It's been good(no leaks) since! Anyone have a 'safe' method of removing the broken pan-bolt stub? And shoud I get/use a set of better(ARP)? -trans pan bolts, or just a new set of OEM bolts, and then make sure no one over-torques them?! Cheers
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 07:11 AM
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I'm fixing to install a Derale pan on my '96. The advice Pete K gave me was 100 inch lbs. Don't use any kind of sealer on the gasket.
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Can86Z51

This thread reminds me that on the last trans fluid/filter change on my L86 Coupe, one of the original pan bolts broke(head broke off clean,level with bottom of the trans/gasket case)!? My tech was using a small air ratchet - I assume the bolt/head got over-torqued? Rather than take a chance of the trans/case gasket surface getting 'buggered' by trying to drill out/remove the stub - we just put a new gasket on the pan, and carefully tighten up all of the other/remaining trans-pan bolts. It's been good(no leaks) since! Anyone have a 'safe' method of removing the broken pan-bolt stub? And shoud I get/use a set of better(ARP)? -trans pan bolts, or just a new set of OEM bolts, and then make sure no one over-torques them?! Cheers
The few times i had to remove broken bolts i just used some dental picks to turn the broken stud out.You think the bolt broke because he over torqued it so it should be easy to spin out ,if it would of snapped when he was loosing it then that's a different story that would mean the bolt is probably seized in and you probably need to drill it and use a ''easy out'' to remove it.try the picks i bet it will spin right outbtw, you can find a bunch of different picks at princess auto .

Last edited by makn u shiver; Sep 5, 2008 at 02:20 PM.
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 04:13 PM
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Thinking back now - I think the pan bolt head broke when my guy was removing the pan bolts!(hey - it's been a few years!). Initially, he tried to bavk-out the stub by trying to turn it out with the edge of a small,sharp chisel. that did not seem to get it to back out, so I said to just leave it in place, and snug up the remaining bolts with a new gasket. That sealed the pan, but at some point I would still like to get the stub out, and replaced! Thanks for the thought. tho! Cheers!
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