C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

93/LT1; engine self-destructed, what should i do??

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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 07:31 PM
  #41  
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Get engine book from library. If you can read it can save you several thousand doll. Buy compression tester and check compression if starter can crank engine. If starter doesn't work spin crank by wrench. I would buy your car but you are too far from me and you have lean on it. It is time to get a book!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 09:20 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by blizzam
i was driving to work, 4th or 5th gear, about 45 mph. engine started running a little bumpy, and my first thought was that maybe a cylinder wasnt firing. accompanying this was a lack of power that got progressively worse, and the engine started getting less and less smooth, or more bumpy/hiccupy/whatever. if i gave it throttle there would be a very loud knocking sound from the engine bay and little to no acceleration. (i remembered that the night before, it felt like this but very briefly, and then seemed to be normal again.) anyway, within about a half mile this problem went from running a little rough to the car dying, barely restarting a couple times (as i was trying to get it off a busy road) and then not starting at all. the "threw a rod" diagnosis i mentioned is just kind of hearsay, and i dont know if thats what happened.
Sounds like the opti died, the distributor on the front on the engine.
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 02:54 AM
  #43  
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that would be effing sweet!

i would find it really odd if a chevy 350 died at like 90k...i mean thats not common, right?
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 09:19 AM
  #44  
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Also seen this from just a loose MAF before...but regardless a pro diagnosis is the place to start (as stressed before )
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 09:24 AM
  #45  
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Pull the pan and look. That is where I would start.
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 12:37 PM
  #46  
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Have you joined a local Corvette club?

They're a great resource

They can help you out, a lot of them work on their own cars, and those who don't will know who to send you to.

Here's a good place to start
http://www.corvettesnccc.org/
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 02:24 PM
  #47  
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http://www.golenengineservice.com/ht...rt_blocks.html
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by MK 82
Pull the pan and look. That is where I would start.
Well, if it was an engine knock, it wouldn't go away and come back the next day as he described. . . . .yes indeed, it could be something as simple as a distributor (opti ) problem. The knocking would come from severe ignition advance firing, and preignition caused by the mis-firing opti,
.....that is easy to diagnose BTW.......find someone with an ignition scanner.....
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 08:06 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by JimiHendrix
Well, if it was an engine knock, it wouldn't go away and come back the next day as he described. . . . .yes indeed, it could be something as simple as a distributor (opti ) problem. The knocking would come from severe ignition advance firing, and preignition caused by the mis-firing opti,
.....that is easy to diagnose BTW.......find someone with an ignition scanner.....
I was going from the report of a broken rod. Sounds like no clue.
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MK 82
I was going from the report of a broken rod. Sounds like no clue.
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 09:41 PM
  #51  
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i have an appointment on the 29th...i just went out to try starting it, out of curiosity, and it turns over but wont fire. what might that tell someone?
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 12:09 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by blizzam
i have an appointment on the 29th...i just went out to try starting it, out of curiosity, and it turns over but wont fire. what might that tell someone?
My crystal ball is still in the shop, but what I can tel you is if it had a "thrown rod", it wouldn't turn over at all. Sounds like a fuel delivery or ignition issue, but like I said before...my crystal ball isn't available.


Let a pro look at it, you'll be money ahead
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 01:55 AM
  #53  
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If Money is tight I would stick to a stock reman from either Jasper or Rhino.
Both sell re-man LT1's right at $2000 for a long block, Rhino includes shipping. That's with full machine work and warrente.
If you have a place to work you can save between $1200 and $1800 on the install.
Time to get a shop manual and learn?
At those price it's worth bringing almost any Corvette back to life w/o the uncertainty of junk yard or Ebay motors. At least get to drive for a couple of years and pay it off.

Sorry, I feel your pain.

Last edited by mvitacco; Sep 24, 2008 at 02:02 AM.
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 02:31 AM
  #54  
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If you were able to crank the engine over with the starter and you didn't hear any noises that were out of the ordinary, your engine is probably fine. I agree with the ignition or fuel problem suggestion; it could just be your optispark. If it's the original and it has 90K on it, then it's due for replacement anyway.

If you had bad mechanical damage inside the engine, it would either not turn over at all or it would make really nasty sounding noises. I really doubt you need a new engine.
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 07:21 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by bdw18_123
If you were able to crank the engine over with the starter and you didn't hear any noises that were out of the ordinary, your engine is probably fine. I agree with the ignition or fuel problem suggestion; it could just be your optispark. If it's the original and it has 90K on it, then it's due for replacement anyway.

If you had bad mechanical damage inside the engine, it would either not turn over at all or it would make really nasty sounding noises. I really doubt you need a new engine.
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 12:26 PM
  #56  
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Many years ago I had a car spin a bearing. The sound came first, then the failure. Just from my limited experience it I agree with looking at the opti-ignition first. When you get a severe mis-fire situation the engine is going to knock because everythings out of timing. Do a search on this forum for opti and see if you find similarities in your symptoms compared to others. There's alot of experience here.
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 12:46 AM
  #57  
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old thread, and thank you for all the super helpful replies!

just to tie up loose ends though, the problem ended being a wily gas gauge. it ran out of gas, even though the fuel mileage left calculator told me i had 20 miles of range left. so, word of warning: the gas gauge may not be very accurate! just the other day it read half a tank, and then i filled up, and it took 16 gallons.
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To 93/LT1; engine self-destructed, what should i do??

Old Oct 8, 2009 | 09:17 AM
  #58  
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and what shoppe was this that said it was a rod and wanted to empty your wallet for $5k +??
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 07:34 PM
  #59  
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the cheapest diagnostic: pull oil pan drain plug, its probably magnetic, inspect for metallic "hair"; drain oil, inspect for metal; pull oil filter; cut can apart, inspect filter medium for metal. If there's little or none, you're probably okay; if there's a lot, especially chunks...well the news isn't going to be good. lots of luck.
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 08:02 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by blizzam
old thread, and thank you for all the super helpful replies!

just to tie up loose ends though, the problem ended being a wily gas gauge. it ran out of gas, even though the fuel mileage left calculator told me i had 20 miles of range left. so, word of warning: the gas gauge may not be very accurate! just the other day it read half a tank, and then i filled up, and it took 16 gallons.
Holy**** guy!
I just read this whole thread.

WTF...

we know the gas guage on these things suck. actually I think most here will say it is useless under 1/4 a tank. Maybe a a 1/4 of those people will say under 1/2 a tank and they are finding a gas station.

so repairs were from 5K to a tank full of gas. LMAO

I knew one guy who carried a stick with marks on it to know how much gas he had.
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