Backwards axleshaft question
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Coeur d'Alene Idaho
Backwards axleshaft question
If one axleshaft was mistakenly put in backwards with the drainhole facing upwards would this cause a vibration issue? I have new tires and wheels that are road force balanced, new wheel bearings and installed 4new spicer axle shaft u joints and I have a problem with vibration starting at 55-60mph coming from the rear end, once you slow below 55mph the vibration go's away, any ideas would GREATLY be appreciated 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Cherokee National Forest TN
Don't know about the drive shaft ?
Had wheel/tire vibration problems on my 89 vert even with new tires. Dial indicated all the wheels & had 2 that were out of spec. Replaced them with a set of saw blades that were straight & that cured about 75% of the problem. Balanced the tires on the car & that cured the vibration. I think a couple of brake rotors were out of balance. Be sure to mark a wheel stud & the wheel so it goes back together properly after servicing.
What you can do is mark a wheel & wheel stud then rotate the wheel on the hub one set of holes. Continue rotating one set of holes at a time until you get the wheel to run true or run with less vibration. This is refered to as indexing. Many times you can get a wheel to mate properly with a hub using this method. It is time consuming but it works more often than not.
If your going to indicate the wheels be sure to check the vertical outside lip & inside lip for lateral run out (side to side) then check on the horizontal lips for radial run out. (up & down).
If memory serves the wheel check procedure is in the FSM.
Had wheel/tire vibration problems on my 89 vert even with new tires. Dial indicated all the wheels & had 2 that were out of spec. Replaced them with a set of saw blades that were straight & that cured about 75% of the problem. Balanced the tires on the car & that cured the vibration. I think a couple of brake rotors were out of balance. Be sure to mark a wheel stud & the wheel so it goes back together properly after servicing.
What you can do is mark a wheel & wheel stud then rotate the wheel on the hub one set of holes. Continue rotating one set of holes at a time until you get the wheel to run true or run with less vibration. This is refered to as indexing. Many times you can get a wheel to mate properly with a hub using this method. It is time consuming but it works more often than not.
If your going to indicate the wheels be sure to check the vertical outside lip & inside lip for lateral run out (side to side) then check on the horizontal lips for radial run out. (up & down).
If memory serves the wheel check procedure is in the FSM.
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Coeur d'Alene Idaho
I am unfamiliar with the term Centering rings?, Yes they are aftermarket Torq Thrust II wheels, where would I find centering rings and how do they work? I am only having balancing issues with the rears, I went to a car show this weekend and the vibration sucked on the freeway!
Last edited by sonny@intermaxnetwor; Sep 15, 2008 at 07:20 AM.
Team Owner
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The work including the tires was all done at "one time"?
The easiest approach would be "spin balance" your old wheel/tire combination and do the drive again! You did mention it's only a seemingly "rear" problem! After a drive and it's still present then you just need to eliminate possibilities one at a time and they're "numerous"!!
I don't understand the "drain hole" thing you mentioned!
The indexing on on the hub likely wont accomplish much, you've got 5 indexes on each rear wheel and the possible "combinations" takes someone substantially better with math than I! Wasted time I believe!
"Road Force" balancing at the hand of an inexperienced operator could account for situation also!
The centering ring is a "good thought"! There should be an "advertised" center bore on the wheel manufacturers web page or catalog. I believe all 5 X 4 3/4 bolt circled GM hubs are spec'd to 70.3mm.
The easiest approach would be "spin balance" your old wheel/tire combination and do the drive again! You did mention it's only a seemingly "rear" problem! After a drive and it's still present then you just need to eliminate possibilities one at a time and they're "numerous"!!
I don't understand the "drain hole" thing you mentioned!
The indexing on on the hub likely wont accomplish much, you've got 5 indexes on each rear wheel and the possible "combinations" takes someone substantially better with math than I! Wasted time I believe!
"Road Force" balancing at the hand of an inexperienced operator could account for situation also!
The centering ring is a "good thought"! There should be an "advertised" center bore on the wheel manufacturers web page or catalog. I believe all 5 X 4 3/4 bolt circled GM hubs are spec'd to 70.3mm.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Sep 15, 2008 at 09:27 PM.
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 98
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From: Coeur d'Alene Idaho
On my 1994 LT1 there seems to be a small hole on one end of each axleshaft on the down side facing the wheel hub, looks factory, I assumed it was for draining any condensation that might build up in the shaft?
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