Best/reputable Machine shop in Dallas fort worth Area
#2
Get ahold of Lloyd Elliott. I think he has Trevor Johnson do his machine work after he ports heads.
He mentioned to me that he could go to machine shops a bit closer but he likes Trevor's work.
I don't think you would have a problem driving 45minutes to get good work done.
He mentioned to me that he could go to machine shops a bit closer but he likes Trevor's work.
I don't think you would have a problem driving 45minutes to get good work done.
#3
As far as "engine builders" I would suggest LMR in Houston, Hans Fuestel in FT Worth area, Speed Specialties in Mesquite, or Dennis Wells in Duncanville.
They are the big names and are not bashful about charging either. Align bore, align hone, deck the block, file firt rings, etc, etc, these shops can do it all and charge accordigly.
If you are on a tighter budget and these shops do not fit your needs, Metroplex machine in Mesquite can handle the job for you at a lower cost.
Lloyd.
They are the big names and are not bashful about charging either. Align bore, align hone, deck the block, file firt rings, etc, etc, these shops can do it all and charge accordigly.
If you are on a tighter budget and these shops do not fit your needs, Metroplex machine in Mesquite can handle the job for you at a lower cost.
Lloyd.
#4
Race Director
I'm really surprised someone didn't beat me to it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1367568
Depending on what you want a straight rebuild or build a hot rod.
I had my Hot Rod 383 LT 4 built at Kim Barr Racing Engines in Dallas .
For stock I would likely pull the old engine strip and save it and buy a LT 1 new short block from Scoggins Dicky get the heads rebuilt locally and do it my self with the new block and my parts .
You didn't say if your engine was in very bad shape or not but the replacement engine saves a lot of time.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1367568
Depending on what you want a straight rebuild or build a hot rod.
I had my Hot Rod 383 LT 4 built at Kim Barr Racing Engines in Dallas .
For stock I would likely pull the old engine strip and save it and buy a LT 1 new short block from Scoggins Dicky get the heads rebuilt locally and do it my self with the new block and my parts .
You didn't say if your engine was in very bad shape or not but the replacement engine saves a lot of time.
Last edited by larry00; 09-20-2008 at 09:38 PM.
#5
Instructor
As far as "engine builders" I would suggest LMR in Houston, Hans Fuestel in FT Worth area, Speed Specialties in Mesquite, or Dennis Wells in Duncanville.
They are the big names and are not bashful about charging either. Align bore, align hone, deck the block, file firt rings, etc, etc, these shops can do it all and charge accordigly.
If you are on a tighter budget and these shops do not fit your needs, Metroplex machine in Mesquite can handle the job for you at a lower cost.
Lloyd.
They are the big names and are not bashful about charging either. Align bore, align hone, deck the block, file firt rings, etc, etc, these shops can do it all and charge accordigly.
If you are on a tighter budget and these shops do not fit your needs, Metroplex machine in Mesquite can handle the job for you at a lower cost.
Lloyd.
#6
Race Director
I've heard not to let someone who doesn't know LT engines do the work.
Well the sticky must have come unstuck ! Anyway a member in El Paso who entrusted his Vette to a Garage who said they were experenced but turned out they were not .
After much trouble he had the car drug to another garage who did the job right. I think he called it a nightmare.
Since they were a short lived change engine not a lot of shops have experience with them.
Just talk to them about experience and you can rely on your fellow Forum Members recommendations on the link.
Last edited by larry00; 09-21-2008 at 08:49 AM.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2005
Location: Keller Texas
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Unfortunately I am experiencing that nightmare. I never saw the thread saying dont go to someone without experience. Its my lt1 383 ported heads headers forged pistons, 1.6 rockers. First they put in total seal rings and I was getting 300 mile per quart oil. Then pulled again put moly poly rings and 1800 miles per quart. 10K miles. Leakdown-10, 12,8,12,20,10,14. could not get leakdown tool on last plug without removing header. Thinks this is not the cause for the oil leak. "Drive the car- it will break in." Well here I am 2 yrs later. Wants to check and put new valve stem seals for $400. I am not giving him any more money. (DYNO-265 HP/300 Torq.-sucks)Why should I pay him again for something that should have been right the first time. I have had the problem since it started. the thing needs to be rebuilt by someone who knows the LT1. All quality parts but just needs to be rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing and stands by their work.
Last edited by 66grandsport; 09-21-2008 at 09:38 AM.
#8
Race Director
Unfortunately I am experiencing that nightmare. I never saw the thread saying dont go to someone without experience. Its my lt1 383 ported heads headers forged pistons, 1.6 rockers. First they put in total seal rings and I was getting 300 mile per quart oil. Then pulled again put moly poly rings and 1800 miles per quart. 10K miles. Leakdown-10, 12,8,12,20,10,14. could not get leakdown tool on last plug without removing header. Thinks this is not the cause for the oil leak. "Drive the car- it will break in." Well here I am 2 yrs later. Wants to check and put new valve stem seals for $400. I am not giving him any more money. (DYNO-265 HP/300 Torq.-sucks)Why should I pay him again for something that should have been right the first time. I have had the problem since it started. the thing needs to be rebuilt by someone who knows the LT1. All quality parts but just needs to be rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing and stands by their work.
Total seal are the best rings in my book. were the cyl. bored when rebuilt.
Internals have to be right clearance wise.
If you have a leak down or compression gauge poor a bit of oil into the cylinder and see if there is improvement .
if there is then it's the valve assembly.
If you are not going to boost the engine it should have pretty high compression.
Stock is about 12.5.1 I think.
Nobody is born knowing this stuff and I guarantee I am trying to learn too.
I put on a brand new opti and it went out immediately,
Not used to computerised cars and failing brand new parts.
There are many good corvette mechanics on here who if you can provide enough info can be of real help.
If the guy suggested new rings as a cure and now says valve guides you might as well find some one who knows his stuff.
Please let us know new developments as you will be passing hard gained knowledge on to the next guy.
You ain't alone and yours is not the first time we have heard of this stuff.
I had a friend who built a 383 and the guy who built it put in a high volume high pressure oil pump and he could not keep oil in the engine . It idled at 80 psi and shot oil out all around the valve covers.
High volume + high pressure not so much.
40 lb's is plenty ! 60psi under stress is great .
Last edited by larry00; 09-21-2008 at 10:36 AM.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2005
Location: Keller Texas
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stock ported heads, SRP forged pistons-he told me 10.5 compression when he was building. Total seal rings were so great they were sucking oil in from the intake. I am over this whole deal and ready to junk this engine. 2 years of checking the oil stick every day. I want someone who is going to provide me with what I am paying for. Started with an oil problem and $6 k later I still have it. My mistake of not having the proper shop doing it.
#10
Race Director
Stock ported heads, SRP forged pistons-he told me 10.5 compression when he was building. Total seal rings were so great they were sucking oil in from the intake. I am over this whole deal and ready to junk this engine. 2 years of checking the oil stick every day. I want someone who is going to provide me with what I am paying for. Started with an oil problem and $6 k later I still have it. My mistake of not having the proper shop doing it.
Could be sucking oil just like you said through poorly seated intake gaskets and lifter valley.
Mine were stock ported and had to have the intakes ported to match.
They make a $hitload of Headgasket thicknesses and your compression ain't right unless your pistons are dished for Blower, its too low, lower than stock.
That compression is too low thats why the power is down.
Mines only 9.8.1 but I built it for D 1Pro Charger 8 lb.s boost.
Went and checked 10.4.1 is stock but sure is too low for good performance engine.
I have no Idea where I got 12.1 wishfull thinking I guess.
Last edited by larry00; 09-21-2008 at 08:21 PM.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2005
Location: Keller Texas
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As far as i know he did match the intake and the heads. If it was sucking oil wouldnt the plugs be fouled? How happy are you with the engine Kims Racing did for you all?
#14
If you are up for the drive to get the best engine and not spend a ton of money come down to san antonio and have your engine built by danny at mission auto. If your into the circle track scene then youve heard his name. His engnes are incredible and he will stand by his work 100%!
#15
Some builders not used to the LT1 arent aware of the high compression, reverse cooling, & thin lower friction rings that are some of the features that make the LT1 different / better than SBC.
#16
have you try to search in the internet by using some search engine. I think you can find there some little information about machine shop like you are looking for. However, try to follow some member said in their post I guess they will help it.