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"Apply 12v to terminal G of the ALDL".....this will apply 12 to the fuel pump circuit( pump will run while voltage is applied to "G" of the ALDL)
The fuel relay will drop out 2 seconds......this is normal.
Sorry but I dont understand what you mean. This test should make the fuel pump stop after two seconds? Does this prove anything?
why don't you try getting a test light on the 12v + wire at the pump. see if the pumps shuts off momentarily after start up. maybe you have a bad relay. anything at this point is worth a try before ripping the plenum off again
I touched every wire at the pump with my test light and it doesnt turn on. The key is on. What color is the 12v source at the pump, purple?
I touched every wire at the pump with my test light and it doesnt turn on. The key is on. What color is the 12v source at the pump, purple?
the light will only go on for 2 sec. when the ecu picks up cranking the pump should run untill the engine is shut off. my feeling is that the pump is not running during cranking. alowing the engine to start and die immediatly. (i think thats what you said) so the test light should be on if hooked to the right wire during cranking and stay on through startup. look at the plug in the back where the fuel pump plugs in. if you just turn the key the power is interupted.
Sorry but I dont understand what you mean. This test should make the fuel pump stop after two seconds? Does this prove anything?
My bad it was a bad explanation....this may not be any better but......The fuel pump/Fuel pump relay will only run/close for 2 seconds once the key switch is turned from the "off" postion to the "run" position without rotating the key to the "start"/cranking position....this is normal.
The "Apply 12v to terminal G of the ALDL".....this will apply 12 to the fuel pump circuit( pump will run while voltage is applied to "G" of the ALDL) is done by running a single wire from the + terminal of the car's battery to the "G" terminal of the ALDL connection point under the driverside panel. This means that the fuel pump will run regardless of the key switch position as long as you have 12 volts on "G".
the light will only go on for 2 sec. when the ecu picks up cranking the pump should run untill the engine is shut off. my feeling is that the pump is not running during cranking. alowing the engine to start and die immediatly. (i think thats what you said) so the test light should be on if hooked to the right wire during cranking and stay on through startup. look at the plug in the back where the fuel pump plugs in. if you just turn the key the power is interupted.
So is the pump not running when the car is started because its faulty or its not getting 12v anymore?
My bad it was a bad explanation....this may not be any better but......The fuel pump/Fuel pump relay will only run/close for 2 seconds once the key switch is turned from the "off" postion to the "run" position without rotating the key to the "start"/cranking position....this is normal.
The "Apply 12v to terminal G of the ALDL".....this will apply 12 to the fuel pump circuit( pump will run while voltage is applied to "G" of the ALDL) is done by running a single wire from the + terminal of the car's battery to the "G" terminal of the ALDL connection point under the driverside panel. This means that the fuel pump will run regardless of the key switch position as long as you have 12 volts on "G".
Thanks for clearing that up, it makes perfect sense now!
So is the pump not running when the car is started because its faulty or its not getting 12v anymore?
the pump should always run when the engine is running or cranking. Does yours run at all times.. tell us what its doing,, its probably the relay if its stopped.. i don't think its the punp
the pump should always run when the engine is running or cranking. Does yours run at all times.. tell us what its doing,, its probably the relay if its stopped.. i don't think its the punp
I'm trying to figure out if its running when it starts, but I'm having a bit of difficulty! I can also change out the relay and see if it helps.
I'm trying to figure out if its running when it starts, but I'm having a bit of difficulty! I can also change out the relay and see if it helps.
Pop the hood.....the relay is on the firewall about 1/2 between the brake booster and distributor. You should be able to locate the relay by listening for the "tic" sound from the relay after it drops out ~2 seconds after you turn the key to the "run" postion.
Well I went outside to test for 12v at the fuel pump wire and it started right up and ran fine. It ran for 10min before I shut it off. The fuel pressure is holding steady still. Now I'm really lost.
Well I went outside to test for 12v at the fuel pump wire and it started right up and ran fine. It ran for 10min before I shut it off. The fuel pressure is holding steady still. Now I'm really lost.
did you play with the wires.. i bet if you take apart some of the connectors back by the pump you will find that green toe jam. (corrosion) pull the relay and check all the connectors and wiring. I think you at least know the source of the problem.. you need constant fuel pressure to keep the engine running
Well I went outside to test for 12v at the fuel pump wire and it started right up and ran fine. It ran for 10min before I shut it off. The fuel pressure is holding steady still. Now I'm really lost.
Car may run......but I would still do the fuel pressure leak down test again to see if you still are losing pressure and where the loss is.
I went for a ride around the block, stalled on me. I kept starting and starting it before it finally stumbled home. Stalled on me on the driveway a few times. I hit the fuel pump and it seems to help a bit.
I hooked up my 12v light again and started the car.
The light will turn on while the car is running. When the car stalls the light will remain lit, and turn off about 2 seconds later. So I guess the pump is getting a good 12v source.
Seeing as how the pump dies before the light, I can assume that the fuel pump itself is bad. Correct?
I hooked up my 12v light again and started the car.
The light will turn on while the car is running. When the car stalls the light will remain lit, and turn off about 2 seconds later. So I guess the pump is getting a good 12v source.
Seeing as how the pump dies before the light, I can assume that the fuel pump itself is bad. Correct?
if the pump dies then the car dies then the light goes out i would say you need a fuel pump,
That's what I'm thinking, but I'd love to know for sure.
well let me put it this way.. you eliminated the FPR, a leaky injector would not act like that. the car looses pressure prior to the pump power being removed. the relay seems ok.. pump time!
well let me put it this way.. you eliminated the FPR, a leaky injector would not act like that. the car looses pressure prior to the pump power being removed. the relay seems ok.. pump time!
I'll try and get one tomorrow. Will a stock pump be enough seeing as how the engine has been rebuilt and puts down about 310hp to the wheels. Do I need a pump that flows more? Thanks for your help!
I'll try and get one tomorrow. Will a stock pump be enough seeing as how the engine has been rebuilt and puts down about 310hp to the wheels. Do I need a pump that flows more? Thanks for your help!