When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yes you can replace it...the valve just screws in and out. Beware that any remaining freon in the system will escape when you unscrew the valve. The schrader valve's seat is made of special composite for ac systems do not confuse it with a standard tire stem schrader valve. Any auto shop should have these...but they can come it different lengths so remove yours with a "valve core tool" and take it with you when you go to buy a new one for comparisons purposes.
Thanks. That's what I thought from looking at it and the fact that the FSM mentions replacing it. I have a parts list for the C4 but it doesn't specify a GM part number for the valve. That sort of led to the confusion.
.....is there any charge left in the system at this time?
Yes. Found the part. GM Part # 52458184. Was $8.88 at local GM dealership. It's the valve on the High Side for a 1994. Apparently the schrader valve itself in this location is not replacable. Gona have the shop replace the valve and salvage what little bit of charge is left in the system.
Don't replace it! After rebuilding the top end and starting it for the first time, I looked out at the engine and saw a stream of fuel shooting out of that valve. I tried pushing it, hoping it was just clogged with something, then called my little brother, the Master Mechanic at a dealership.
All I had to do was tighten the inside part of the valve stem. I used a valve stem cap that had a slot tightener built in the top. A slight twist or two and it was good to go. That same schrader valve comes loose on car tires too.
Don't replace it! After rebuilding the top end and starting it for the first time, I looked out at the engine and saw a stream of fuel shooting out of that valve. I tried pushing it, hoping it was just clogged with something, then called my little brother, the Master Mechanic at a dealership.
All I had to do was tighten the inside part of the valve stem. I used a valve stem cap that had a slot tightener built in the top. A slight twist or two and it was good to go. That same schrader valve comes loose on car tires too.
...."fuel"????...he is talking about his A/C system!
So I had the valve replaced this morning and the system recharged. Now it's not working. High and Low side switches are connected, all fuses good, and compressor clutch control is connected. No codes. Before the repair the clutch was cycling due to loss of freon. I disconnected clutch harness until valve was repaired. Any ideas? I'll look at my FSM tonight.
So I had the valve replaced this morning and the system recharged. Now it's not working. High and Low side switches are connected, all fuses good, and compressor clutch control is connected. No codes. Before the repair the clutch was cycling due to loss of freon. I disconnected clutch harness until valve was repaired. Any ideas? I'll look at my FSM tonight.
...1st, determine that the clutch is good by applying 12v to it...if that works, work backwards!...then, tale a short piece of wire and after removing the lp switch, short out the contacts in the plug ..if it comes on then the problem most likely lies there...gotta step out a bit and wil check this when i get back in......
...1st, determine that the clutch is good by applying 12v to it...if that works, work backwards!...then, tale a short piece of wire and after removing the lp switch, short out the contacts in the plug ..if it comes on then the problem most likely lies there...gotta step out a bit and wil check this when i get back in......
Thanks. I'm at work right now so other than some light reading this will have to wait till this afternoon. I do have online access to AllData (FSM is at home) and am looking over the diagrams and such. It's just my luck that prior to disconnecting the connector at the clutch it was working (other than cycling due to low pressure). There appear to be lots of possibilities (relay, sensors, etc). I just read that if the PCM is storing a trouble code that's A/C related then the PCM will not re-engage the clutch till the code is cleared. I can check codes during lunch. Maybe it's that simple?
I checked codes during lunch and found DTC 66 and DTC 67, both A/C related codes. I DTC 67 must get thrown when you disconnect the clutch harness. I cleared the codes and started the car. The A/C is now working. Too bad I didn't try the A/C before clearing the codes. I don't know if this is not just coincidental. Nonetheless, it's working!!!!
Last edited by carllangford; Oct 8, 2008 at 01:38 PM.