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I have been having problems with my 88. I have had a intemittent start problem for a while now. Based on what I have read, I assumed it was vats prob. Purchased bypass for key but this did not work. A month or so after getting bypass the problem went from intermittent to not crank at all. Tried new keyed ignition but that did not work. Thought about buying new vats module but then found pcm for less could provide adaptor chip to take vats out all together. Bought this but still not cranking. Dash lights up but not turning over. Could someone run me thru logical steps to pin point problem. Not great mechanic, basically can turn wrench and change parts. Dangerous and expensive to myself. feel like *****, going round in cirlces.
I didn't understand you have cranking problem (non working or bad working starter) or starter works fine but engine doesn't start?
If this is starter you have to check voltage going to starter before you replace starter.
If your starter cranks fine you have to look for fuel-spark problem.
I had problem with my Cherokee- fuel was leaking back to fuel tank and system was loosing pressure in 5-10 sec. after stopping engine.So when I tried to start engine it took 5-10 sec for fuel pump to increase pressure to normal.
To check this problem turn key on for 5 sec w/o starting tree times. Then start. By doing so you let pump to increase pressure to normal. You can also buy fuel pressure gauge from any store.
I mean that when I turn the ignition key nothing happens. Dash lights up but I do not hear starter solinoid or any sound from starter. This is why I assumed it was vats module. It was cheaper to purchase the vats chip frorm PCM for less than to purchase new vats module and I don't want that crap anyway. VATS sucks! If PCM did send me the correct part then I have now taken vats out of my start up and must be another electrical problem. I am hoping to find correct procedure to diagnose this problem and how to test each component in what order.
Just bypassed the starter enable relay per directions found on website. Car still will not start. I guess ignition switch replacment is next. Anone got sugg's???? help!
Last edited by gmc's88vette; Oct 12, 2008 at 03:53 PM.
I mean that when I turn the ignition key nothing happens. Dash lights up but I do not hear starter solinoid or any sound from starter. This is why I assumed it was vats module. It was cheaper to purchase the vats chip frorm PCM for less than to purchase new vats module and I don't want that crap anyway. VATS sucks! If PCM did send me the correct part then I have now taken vats out of my start up and must be another electrical problem. I am hoping to find correct procedure to diagnose this problem and how to test each component in what order.
Just bypassed the starter enable relay per directions found on website. Car still will not start. I guess ignition switch replacment is next. Anone got sugg's???? help!
First
Stop and take a breath
Step back, get a wiring diagram, and work back. Get a meter and check the wire at the soleniod then keep working back. It may still end up being the ignition but at least you will be sure it will fix it when you replace it.
Leave the bypass for key switch installed, it will take the ignition pellet out of the equation.
Check your injector fuses - make sure they are good first. Charge your car's battery to the proper level.
Use a probe/test light/noid light on/into the wire for one of the injectors while you crank/try to crank the engine if you can see the light blink/voltage. If you see the light blink/voltage then you do not have a VATS problem.
Replace your starter enable relay or do the bypass mentioned in above post.
Iroc, Engle thanks for your input. The battery is old and has been sitting for a while without good charge. Going to have checked and replace if neccassary. Got wiring diagram. Going to spend some time working back from solenoid.
"no start" sez it cranks over but won't run, if it won't "crank" don't refer to that as a "no start"
i use a "home-grown" test lead for trouble-shoot of this problem, my high $ tester has end connectors too large and leads too short ...made from two pieces abt ten foot long 16 ga wire with a push-button switch, one wire end has a "ring type crimp-on" end to attach to the starter solenoid, other wire end has a 10 amp fuse and gator clip to grab any 12v source that is handy...remove the tiny nut from the starter solenoid and install the ring end, connect the second fused lead to 12v at battery/etc, keep test wires away from exhaust system, etc...can now "direct feed" solenoid to check solenoid for proper "crank" on demand...can even route test leads thru hood and door openings where rubber seals won't cut and check "intermittent" solenoids.
was not aware that "no start" meant engine turns over but will not run. Guesss that makes sense though. Will rig something to direct feed soleniod and see what happens. Appreciate your input.
Woohoo! just got my C-4 to start. Cleaned up connection at solenoid and replaced battery. Also installed chip to eliminate vats earlier and bypassed interrupt relay. It's ready to go. 88 convertable silver with black top just like the one on Haynes repair manual 58,800 orginal miles. It's a gem! Got new weather stripping and will install tomorrow. Thanks for the help guys!!!