Thanks guys...

To answer a few questions:

The offset rockers I already had from an old set of AFR 210s and I was told by T&D they will work fine.

Idea of HP? Well I was aiming for Z06 type power and so far it easily feels as strong as one so I don't think I'm off by much. Down low it feels much stronger but then again I run Drag Radials and a soft 250lb spring in the rear with coilovers so it hooks allot better plus I have a little more gear. I really, really doubt a stock Z06 could take me light to light or to the 1/8th mile however SOTP is not exactly a science either even though the car is quite violent when it takes off.

Peak power with that heads and cam combo should be in the neighbourhood of 450-460RWHP however as cliched as it may sound, I was not going for just peak power I was trying to build an all round screamer. Judging by how much torque she has down low right off idle, geez I could have easily went bigger with the cam. I had it down to two choices:

236/242 590/576 112
242/248 612/600 112

I wussed out and went with the smaller one

Actually I went with the smaller one since my tuning options are limited. Alvin can work wonders but even he has his limits through the mail. If he was tuning the car in person I see no reason why it wouldn't break 460RWHP. In the spring, me and Rick or going to see if we can set something up with a well known tuner from the States to max out our builds or see if I can bring out a local tuner from retirement....PETE WHERE ARE YOU!!!

Still, my comments about how the car feels are all based on Alvins "base" tune. Other than a slight stumble off idle at times, it seems like he's pretty dam close already.

...and as much as I love that cam sound, it does have a way of scaring off all the fish, if you know what I mean.

 

 

sounds good.....

 

Nice job, looks like a good combo. You Will have a damn fast car.

 

What was the total build up cost?

I listened to your video about 5 times. The idle sounds incredible.

 

Just looking at the parts, including pumpkin, I would say homey spent about 8k.

Blame Canada...

 

Thanks Jim

It seems to be getting faster everyday as the rings start to seat and the engine breaks in.

I actually opened her up in 4th gear tonight for the first time

I started out in second reving 4000RPM, stepped into it about 30-40% and slowly kept adding throttle short shifting at 6000RPM. I actually didn't even floor it the whole time. It was pulling so hard I thought it might break the tires loose, which obviously stepping into it like that shouldn't. This isn't some crazy 700RWHP Turbo car or anything but like I said, it pulled so hard it made me cautious about traction. Kind of felt like I was right on the edge. I've never felt like that about any of my cars at that speed and again, this is just a base tune that's running too rich with a race weight of 3600lbs.



My main point I'm trying to make here and some advice to others: Respect the power when you do a stroker and ease into it or you can find yourself going through a guard rail real quick. I have yet to do a WOT 6500RPM 1/4 mile run from a dead stop, I'm still getting use to it.

It's too bad Ricks car won't be finished this year. We pretty well much have the same heads and cam but he has another 28 cubes on me. Should be real interesting to see how his comes out.

 

8k with pumpkin? I WISH!!!


I did buy allot of this stuff though when our dollar was worth more than yours at least.

A quick rundown and rough estimate of the parts. Some of them I did buy prior to the stroker in preperation or because they needed replacing....diff, headers, exhaust, water pump, ignition, rad, flywheel and a few others so by the time it came down to doing the engine it was not as big of a hit.


$3000 Car Creations cryoed Dana44 complete with 3.73s and the batwing
$2800 rotating asm
$1500 block, maching, billet caps, oil pump, bearings rings, double roller and labour
$800 cam, lifters push rods
$2500 heads
$500 intake
$100 port intake
$500 fuel pump kit and injectors
$1100 shaft rockers
$500 Opti
$400 Dig 6
$800 headers
$900 Corsa
$1300 clutch asm and flywheel
$260 LC-1 wideband
$500 gaskets, head bolts header bolts etc..
$400 BeCool rad
$250 water pump
$200 valve covers
$350 sensors, O2 map, coolant, IAC, knock etc
$150 wires and plugs
$225 tune ( free updates for 6 months )
$200 spicer u-joints

Engine dressed and installed FREE!!! Yeah, thank god something was!!

I think that's it. Assuming you already have a good clutch, exhaust and headers, you're looking at about 11,000 grand for the motor with fuel system upgrade. You could also save money on some items like, the rad, shaft rockers, splayed caps and a cheaper set of pistons/rotating which would bring you closer to about $8000 especially if you keep it N/A.

IMHO...I spent a little extra because...

-a cool running engine is important-big rad, never sees north of 170F
-valvetrain stability-shaft rockers with ability to go solid roller
-Piston strength for spray- JE HD
-bottom end strength-splayed billet caps
-Air/fuel mix, nuff said there-LC-1 wideband


One area you should never cheap out on though is the heads. Get the best head you can find and cheap out on the other stuff if you're still over budget unless you're going forced induction which at that point I would say build the strongest short block you can for the budget.

 

guess again, it doesn't matter if your there or here ....good parts cost $$$$. I have quite a bit imore than that w/similar upgrading. I already had the exhaust, heads and intake and have more that that in it.
Again, nice job there vette threat....other than it's an 83 cam choice etc. is very similar to mine, should be a strong runner.

 

Thanks but what did you mean by an "83 cam choice"?

 

I guess it sounded like one statement. I meant very similar cam choice, and with yours being a 393ci. is the only difference (meaning not enough ci. difference to change the power)which after getting my reading glasses I see I typed "83"
Performance wise, I would think it feels very similar to mine.
I like the bat wing, did car tech machine it, it looks like a non gm casting.

 

Very nice!

 

Wow Vette Threat !!

Congrats !! I think you've put together a very stout combination !

Can't wait to hear some track numbers !

 

With the bore, I went .040" over instead of 030" because the block was not a virgin and needed to be bored. After that, I only offset ground the crank because the guy who built my short block said he prefers the smaller journal and has done it on allot of his motors with great success. Since I trusted him I said okay, build it the way you feel it will work best.

That Batwing is even more impressive if you have it and the stock one right in front of you. It's no solid axle setup, but it is stronger than stock and we all know how that twisting effect coming out of the hole can destroy diff cases.


Check it out, if you have not already:

http://www.newmancarcreations.com/differentials.html

 

Thanks BB!

I'm actually starting to sweat a little over that 2-3 week window of time I have, to go to the track before it closes. I would like to have about 1500 miles on it before I do go which I should have in about a week or so. I just hope nothing "comes up" that the car needs that I can't find or it rains for the next 3 weekends.

My slave cylinder actually almost screwed me up as it started to leak when I put it back on the car after I installed the motor. Sure enough, I took it apart and the seal was not properly indexed. I assembled it correctly and she's been great since, however I was phoning around to find one prior to rebuilding it and there were none to be found. Could have really been a problem but thanks to ZF Doc and a few others on the forum for alerting us to this problem, I dodged a bullet.


For those who do not know, certain GM dealers were reporting 50% return/warranty rate of the ZF slave cylinders due to the seal being installed incorrectly from 05 to 08.

You can find more info about it on ZF Doc's website but here's a quick comparison pic:

 

That's a nice piece, I can tell by just the pic. that it is heavy duty, and looks like it is well made. The x' bracing between the top and bottom beam fill up the entire width. I had forgotten all about those guys until seeing yours, did you use some solid or poly's for the top ? The case pictured on their site looks also looks good (beefed up as well).
I know what you mean, I have purchased and done pretty much everything that I think you can do (less a spool and using GM parts) to hopefully keep it alive. I know when I throw a shot at mine I won't be hitting off the line.

 

Yup Poly bushings, billet caps and ARP bolts.

I won't be spraying out of the hole either and will aim for a 1.7x range 60 foot time. I want it to be able to do it's E.T. over and over again not have a car that fluked off a crazy 60ft once without blowing up the driveline, and then cling to that time as if that's what the car does on a regular basis.

Any car I've ever had did it's E.T. driven to and back from the track, in full street trim, street legal and on pump gas. No pulling passenger seats, sway bars or sub boxes/amps out of the car and no switching tires. I don't even pump up the front tire pressure, just show up, tech in and start blasting.

I mean no disrespect to anyone who does those things, just putting my car into context, that's all. Plus, I love driving home after a day at the track and passing a car being trailered that did not go as fast as I did.

 

So cool! That must **** them off to see you driving home and they're being trailered...

 

Well it definately let's them know they have allot of work to do!! Look forwad to more of that in the coming weeks.

 

Bad ***