Well, I've recently found myself with a blown LT4 engine, and unfortuneately this one aint supercharged! :(
I decided long ago to do a 383 conversion, just didnt know I'd be doing it this soon. I'm working now to figure out which tuner I'm going with. I'm thinking DRM, but really interested in the opinions of people who have had experience with the following companies: Lingenfelter, South Georgia Corvette (SGC), and of course DRM. Here are the stats for each: The figures are for flywheel HP, and prices are with installation included.

1.Lingenfelter: 450 HP, 430 ft.-lbs.
$13,300

2.SGC: Approx. 475 HP, 475 ft.-lbs.
$10,000

3.DRM: 480 HP, 435 ft. -lbs.
$11,000

The dyno charts look very similar for all three. As you can imagine, this is something that I need to get started soon, so I'm taking each of your comments very seriously. Please comment on "why" you voted the way you did. That's the important part. Thanks! :cheers:

 

Thats a hole lot of money :(

 

Try giving Mike at More Performance ( http://www.moreperformanceinc.com/ ) a call. They are in Charlotte and do a mean 396. :cheers:

 

Lingenfelter's dyno charts are from engine dynos, not chasis dynos. 450 at the flywheel would be 382.5 at the rear wheels (using a 15% correction factor). I sent you mail on this.

Does anyone know about the other figures? Are they from engine or chasis dynos? They almost have to be.




[Modified by Charles Klein, 9:33 AM 1/12/2002]

 

Let me second that vote for http://www.MorePerformanceInc.Com.

I have continued to get all my upgrades done with Osh (Mike Osucha) and the most current power we are running is 531HP out of my 396. The first cam I started with, the mid-level cam made 494HP. I highly recommend you give them a call especially since you are so close. My second choice would be DRM.

Chuck

 

Well, we are doing something right now to an LT4 except we are going with a 396 and making it a solid roller stroker engine. the HP you see on the quotes below are flywheel. I think we will be doing that at the rears!
I would be happy to help if you like.
Fire me an email and let me know if you would like me to work up a quote.

Thanks,
PS Sorry to hear about your engine. Seems to be going around lately.... :(

 

Chris,
Is there any benefit in using an LT4 block over an LT1 in this application?

Jim

 

The ABSOLUTE best way to handle this would be to get an F-body block and get some splayed 4-bolt main caps for it. :yesnod:

For all practical purposes though, a regular 4-bolt block will be more than adequate for any SANE level of power. :jester

 

Chris, SANE level of power????????????

Whats a SANE level of power??? Your talking to guys on this forum who would want to install a 2 stage 500 hot on there stock LT1 if someone would sell it to them. ;)

 

Build the new motor on a used LT1 block and save your numbers matching LT4 block.

 

Not that my car/engine is rare, but I planned on buying a used motor, and storing the original.

Chris, why the f body block, splayed 4 bolt caps can't be used on a vette (sorry for the ignorance )

 

No kidding!

You can have one built for around half that most places.

 

If you are mechanically inclined you can save a LOT of money by doing it yourself. Building a stroker is no harder than building a normal motor. I have a friend who built a completely forged 396 for around $10k. That's a completely new rotating assembly, including CNC ported heads with new bigger valves, springs, etc.

He has a Callies crank, Oliver rods, SRP Pistons, etc. It's really a top notch motor. A good custom ground cam just for your application wouldn't cost much more than any off the shelf vairiety and you could have a one of a kind. I really believe that you can build a better motor for cheaper. The problem is that it won't end up with the prestige of the name on it. Another consideration would be a warranty. I don't know what type of warranty the top name builders give, but that would be a consideration as well.

Personally I would build it myself and have a bulletproof motor have a greater satisfaction. But that takes time. I don't think you can really go wrong either way, I just thought I would point out this option.

 

The corvette block is 4 bolt stock, but not splayed. Being 4 bolt already you can't make it splayed. It's plenty strong, but splayed is stronger, thus get an F-body block that is only a 2 bolt and you can do anything you want with it.

 

If I were you I would give MTI a call. GMHTP covered a buildup of a 396 in great detail last year. I think they mentioned $5600 without induction. They just did an artice on the engine last month on how well it is lasting, and it seems to be pretty well. just my .02 cents :)

 

Well,
I took the advice of some of you and called MORE Performance. I'm shopping around right now, and they seemed like a possibility, being so close and with good prices. They are trying to talk me into a 396, instead of a 383. I think they'll be successful.
My car's engine has very low oil pressure. Does this necessarily mean that my bottom end is useless. The reason I ask, is that it is CONSIDERABLY cheaper to do a 396 (or 383 for that matter) if they use the stock bottom end. If mine is salvageable, I'll use it.

Also, what are the MAIN differences between the 383 and a 396 (besides displacement) Performance, sound, etc. The guys at MORE performance really couldnt give me the answer I was looking for.

Thanks for the posts! :cheers:

 

The difference between 383 and 396 is the crank shaft.
The 383 uses 3.75 but the 396 uses 3.875 stroke crank shaft both are 0.030 over.
I see we must charge to little because we just did a 397 for a drag racer here in SC and it cost him only $8.000 (with ported Dar Pro1 heads) but I guess the different is that we dont have to tune them since it was not a EFI engine.
The only thing they can use from your bottom end is the rods and the block because you have to get 0.030 pistons and a different crank, but if you go the other way you can still use the parts out of your engine but you just have to get a new block I guess the price difference is in the block.

Hope this helped a little :rolleyes:

Jay

 

I wouldn't use anything from your stock bottom end.

You CAN'T use your stock crank or pistons ... it's a possibility with the rods, but I wouldn't.

If you're going to be adding other powers to it, like NOx or a blower.. get a forged crank & pistons. If you're staying N/A, then a cast crank will do fine, but I'd still recommend forged pistons because they are more tolerable to detonation and just overall stronger.

 

My Stroker costs -

Callies rotating assy................2500
LT4 Hot Cam...........................175
95 Opti...................................2 40
95 Timining Cover......................50
GM HD Timing Chain.................220
AFR Heads.............................1800
Gaskets................................. .225
Push Rods................................80
Rockers................................. .300
FMS Injectors 30#...................229
Belts and Hoses........................75
anti freeze................................12
Oil and Filters............................45
Machine Work..........................550
Lifters and Retainer..................200
Rapidfire Plugs..........................40
Waterpump drive......................40
Install HD waterpump gear.........50
Granatelli MAF.........................330
LT4 Balancer...........................200
Oil pump and pickup..................55
Oil pump driveshaft...................20
Ed Wright Computer...............350
Fuel Filter, PCV, wires................65

Total..................................~ 7850

Notes:

The machine work is for the machining the block and its a guess. It includes having the block clearanced for the stroker. The cost of assembling the motor is not included in the list. I used my waterpump since it was still relatively new. I also replace my clutch, fluids in the trans and rearend and rear seals on the trans and rearend. You can save a few bucks by going with a cheaper forged stroker crankshaft or cast crankshaft depending upon how high you plan to spin the motor. I recommend going with a good set of rods with cap screws for the rod bolts and forged pistons.

If you consider that GSC and DRM include installation and a warranty, they are a pretty good deal. Lingenfelter charges a bit more because of his reputation. Its debateable whether is worth it because most of the parts are off the shelf and there is no magic to assembling the motor.

 

[QUOTE]

Also, what are the MAIN differences between the 383 and a 396 (besides displacement) Performance, sound, etc. The guys at MORE performance really couldnt give me the answer I was looking for.

383= Plymouth

396=Chevy/Corvette

:)