C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Found a replacement engine, any tips on removing LT1?

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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 01:06 PM
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Default Found a replacement engine, any tips on removing LT1?

Well I posted on my fun night at the track where I spun a bearing about a month ago now.

I found a replacement I was turned onto it by a local shop that I trust and who built it.

355ci
cast crank
stock rods arp bolts
speed pro pistons
ported out heads with bigger valves
custom grind comp xfi cam

engine made 411whp in previous car.

I even got to hear it run in the car

soo....Any tips or things to remember when removing my old motor?
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 03:41 PM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...914&highlight=do you have a manual or auto?

No matter which one you have, I suggest HAPPY HOOKER its inexpensive and the best purchase I've made for a C4, it cuts hours off of an engine pull.




http://http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module=catalog_page&catalogPag eNumber=110&catalogSubCategory=Happy+Hoo ker
If your engine is stock you should be able to pull it as a complete unit (even the exhaust manifolds)
go to the 2nd page of this thread and read Jimi Hendrix's post


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...914&highlight=

Last edited by aboatguy; Nov 2, 2008 at 04:00 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 03:58 PM
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basically disconnect all the water hoses, AC lines, fuel lines and electrical connections, unbolt the gearbox and engine mounts

slap the hooker and engine hoist wiggle it a bit and it should "pop" right up
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 04:00 PM
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That is by far one of the most awesome aids in pulling a motor I have ever seen! wish i had that when we did my friends 94 z28...
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by GT40_GearHead
basically disconnect all the water hoses, AC lines, fuel lines and electrical connections, unbolt the gearbox and engine mounts

slap the hooker and engine hoist wiggle it a bit and it should "pop" right up
If you have an automatic, I remove the engine mounts, and the damper then I lower the engine IOT access the upper tranny bolts from underneath the car using a 30" extension and a swivel socket.
since I have LT headers, and an electric water pump, I have to remove them in order to pull the engine.

I remove the damper to pull the engine far enough forward to clear the tranny. Don't forget to support the tranny prior to disconnecting the engine

Good luck

Mike

Last edited by aboatguy; Nov 2, 2008 at 04:22 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 04:20 PM
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Its 6spd, I also have long tubes so I guess those will be coming off and out too.
Thanks for the help
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by vettin_it
That is by far one of the most awesome aids in pulling a motor I have ever seen! wish i had that when we did my friends 94 z28...
I did some LT1 pulls on a couple of different cars prior to buying a happy hooker and wish I had one from the beginning. I use mine enough that if I lost it I'd buy another, even if it was 4 or 5 times the price.

Last edited by aboatguy; Nov 2, 2008 at 04:27 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 11:30 PM
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In and out fully dressed...


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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by vettin_it
Its 6spd, I also have long tubes so I guess those will be coming off and out too.
Thanks for the help
Pull the bellhousing and clutch/FW off it before you try and pull it. I left the F/W on mine first time around and it made it a lot harder to get out (F/W kept getting hung up). When the new engine went in, I left the F/W off and it dropped right in place no problems.
Will
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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 10:08 AM
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OK, I want to yank this sucker out with the least amount of work, I plan on dropping it off fully dressed to the machine shop, they are going to do their thing and give it back to me fully dressed ready to drop in. Some people have not removed the tranny (Manual) and still manged to do it, your saying the flywheel makes it a pain? How much of a pain? Will removing the damper give me enough room? I want this to be a half a day thing, then half a day back in.
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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 12:27 PM
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I don't think there's any way to get it back in with the tranny on while the hood is still attached. I kept the flywheel on, but took the bellhousing off. Does your half day estimate include hooking it all up, plus installing the tranny, driveshaft and doing the C-beam?
(That ZF6 is a heavy ****, anyone helping you?)
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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Elephanthead
OK, I want to yank this sucker out with the least amount of work, I plan on dropping it off fully dressed to the machine shop, they are going to do their thing and give it back to me fully dressed ready to drop in. Some people have not removed the tranny (Manual) and still manged to do it, your saying the flywheel makes it a pain? How much of a pain? Will removing the damper give me enough room? I want this to be a half a day thing, then half a day back in.
The FW made it a real PITA becasue it kept hanging up on the firewall and that freaking huge wiring harness back there. Plus if you slip a little on the swing comming out you'll bust the heater/AC box with it.

Do yourself a favor. Drop the tranny, bellhousing, clutch and FW out from the bottom. Its not a big job (took me about 30 mins) and makes removing/putting back the engine a lot easier.
Will
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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 03:20 PM
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Alright, I agree removing the tranny is a good idea, I don't have a lift so this will be done with jackstands, and a tranny jack, can I roll the tranny on its side to get the shifter to clear? I am not superman, but is that manageable or should I find a victim to help me?
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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Elephanthead
Alright, I agree removing the tranny is a good idea, I don't have a lift so this will be done with jackstands, and a tranny jack, can I roll the tranny on its side to get the shifter to clear? I am not superman, but is that manageable or should I find a victim to help me?

ZF6 is pretty heavy and doing it on jackstands, your going to need help.
Will
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