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After a 16hr gas tank re and re and probably 40 - 50hrs to install the Blowerworks kit, the 94 flashed up for the first time last night. Man was that ever a tough install and tight, everything is so tight. Sounds cool though, even at idle. I'm really happy that there were no leaks. Iv'e still got a couple things to do before the road test but for now i'd like to say thanks to everyone here on the Forum, Greg, Adam at AKM, Tunercat and my Dad for support and hard work and Mike for delivering the parts. I've taken a bunch of install pics and will post them when I get a chance.
Q: After a Crane fireball install with a 2 bar MAP, what do you plug the factory MAP cable in to?
You replaced the factory 1 bar map sensor with a 2 bar? The one that is attached to the intake manifold near the tb. You just replace one with the other. The Crane uses its own map sensor for adjusting spark per boost pressure increase. Is this what your asking? Congrats with the install!
Yes, it was what i was asking. I guess i wasn't supposed to replace the factory MAP, but just run a manifold pressure signal to the new 2 bar one. I'll do that tonight. still have to hook up the gaseous intercooling and the racetronix fuel pump wiring harness before the official road test.
Can't wait, had dreams about it last night.
I don't know if I said it correctly but you DO replace the factory map sensor with a 2 bar if you are not using a fmu or macrofueler and are going with a custom tune. Now I don't know if your water injection has its own map sensor or does it have the blowerworks map share system in which they all work off the same map sensor? Same with the Crane, does it have it own built in sensor or does it use an external one. On my systems, I have a 2 bar map in stock location for the computer. I have a 2 bar sensor just for the water injection. The MSD box has one built in. And I also have an indash boost gauge with a built in sensor also. Blowerworks has what is called a map share to cut down an all these map sensors. Don't forget to test the water injection with a hand held vacuum/boost pump before installing.
Let's see, I'm fairly green on this stuff. The factory 1 bar stays in place, the 2 bar has a manifold pressure hose to it and only relays to the crane boost/retard dial. The water injection has a more mechanical looking, manifold pressure activated switch. As far as i know, I'm not running an FMU or macrofueler. I do know that my water injection isn't variable with boost, as in, it's on or it's off.
Just an update, I took the car for a run last night and it seems to operate fine. The datamaster showed a little knock retard when i started stepping into it so I backed off. i've turned up the boost retard to 4 but i think i'll wait until i get the water injection hooked up tonight before I try it again.
UPDATE! hooked up the water injection and had everything where it should be and took it for a burn last night. with the boost/retard set at 3 it felt a little more powerful, the datamaster showed no knock retard. So I dropped the boost/retard down to 1. It hauled a$$, this thing really moves!. Datamaster still showed no knock retard so I turned the boost retard off and then the laptop batteries ran out before I could do another WOT run. But am I pleased? YES!!!! I can't put my foot to the floor until 3rd gear without roasting the tires.
Thanks Bam. The cars a 94 so its a PCM that gets reprogrammed. One of my favorite parts of the install was using tunercat to download the origional program from the car. I then emailed it to Blowerworks where they made a couple adjustments and emailed it back. I put in the new injectors, uploaded the new program, and used dataster to compare values from before with after. I could have removed my pcm and sent to them for reflashing but this way was fun and alot more educational. I used datamaster with a couple wot runs just to check for knock retard.