C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Oh great engine master Teach me

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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 09:19 AM
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Default Oh great engine master Teach me

ok i am a nube when it comes to building an engine. I have a bone stocker 85 automatic l98 perfomce chip. It needs valve seals has 91k on it and i figure after it comes back from the paint shop i am toying with a rebuild

I just had the trans re built and i dont want to have to upgrade the trans and rear end

I want a daily driver around 400 hp. My base line I figure 20+ years of wear i am around 200-220 range

What do i need to make around 400hp at the rear wheels?
I want a dependeble car and I will use it for auto cross and showing off at red lights

Teach me yoda
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
ok i am a nube when it comes to building an engine. I have a bone stocker 85 automatic l98 perfomce chip. It needs valve seals has 91k on it and i figure after it comes back from the paint shop i am toying with a rebuild

I just had the trans re built and i dont want to have to upgrade the trans and rear end

I want a daily driver around 400 hp. My base line I figure 20+ years of wear i am around 200-220 range

What do i need to make around 400hp at the rear wheels?
I want a dependeble car and I will use it for auto cross and showing off at red lights

Teach me yoda
I shall teach you.
Step 1- Use the search feature, as this has been done hundreds of times here.

Step 2- After researching it as much as possible via search, forget most of what you read. Most of it is regurgitated misinformation that is spread over and over again.

Step 3- Look at Lingenfelter's book on modifying small block motors. This is a very informative book, in my opinion.

Step 4- When you insist on listening to forum advice, spend most of your energy trying to decide who you should listen to. There are 5 or 6 people in the c4 tech section with exceptional advice and knowledge. Without a doubt, hardest part is figuring out who these guys are.

Step 5- Find actual, real live people who have done it. If you like the results, do what they do. Local dragstrip is an excellent way to check out combos 1st hand.

Step 6- Whether it is a forum, a magazine, or television, sponsors hope to sell parts. Listen with a grain of salt, as some are more interested in your money than your project.

If I can help, I certainly shall offer to. This assumes you decide my status. Do-er or talker.
Good luck
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
ok i am a nube when it comes to building an engine. I have a bone stocker 85 automatic l98 perfomce chip. It needs valve seals has 91k on it and i figure after it comes back from the paint shop i am toying with a rebuild

I just had the trans re built and i dont want to have to upgrade the trans and rear end

I want a daily driver around 400 hp. My base line I figure 20+ years of wear i am around 200-220 range

What do i need to make around 400hp at the rear wheels?
I want a dependeble car and I will use it for auto cross and showing off at red lights

Teach me yoda
A stock refurbished 1985 700-r4 will not stand 500 flexplate hp long

A stock dana 36 rear (or modified for that matter) will not stand 500 ft lbs of torque with sticky tires. Plan to build less hp and tq, or plan to upgrade entire driveline.

I have destroyed almost evry driveline piece on my car in the 18 years I have been modding it, and I make much less than 400 rwhp off the spray.
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Step 3- Look at Lingenfelter's book on modifying small block motors. This is a very informative book, in my opinion.

Great book. I also like the Chevy High-Performance Small-Block Chevy book. Its the one with the yellow cover.
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 09:52 AM
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This is great advice.

A few points of my own:

1) Don't get wrapped up in shooting for a specific power number. Be really honest with yourself about what you want the car to do and, more importantly, what you don't want it to do. Figure out exactly how you want to use the car (daily driver, weekend toy, track dog, etc) and spec the build with that in mind.

2) Set your budget up front and research part cost carefully to make sure your goals are realistic within the budget. When setting the budget, add 20% to what you think it will cost.

Good luck!
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
ok i am a nube when it comes to building an engine. I have a bone stocker 85 automatic l98 perfomce chip. It needs valve seals has 91k on it and i figure after it comes back from the paint shop i am toying with a rebuild

I just had the trans re built and i dont want to have to upgrade the trans and rear end

I want a daily driver around 400 hp. My base line I figure 20+ years of wear i am around 200-220 range

What do i need to make around 400hp at the rear wheels?
I want a dependeble car and I will use it for auto cross and showing off at red lights

Teach me yoda
If your thinking of doing a new engine or rebuilding the one you got....why not throw some NOS spray on the one you got now to see what kind of HP level you will be happy with.....you may be happy with just keeping your car the way it is and having the option of running spray when you need extra hp. If you decide you need the extra hp all the time do the build up.

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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by engle1147
If your thinking of doing a new engine or rebuilding the one you got....why not throw some NOS spray on the one you got now to see what kind of HP level you will be happy with.....you may be happy with just keeping your car the way it is and having the option of running spray when you need extra hp. If you decide you need the extra hp all the time do the build up.

Doesnt NOS kill your motor? or is that a urban legend?
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Z51L9889
This is great advice.

A few points of my own:

1) Don't get wrapped up in shooting for a specific power number. Be really honest with yourself about what you want the car to do and, more importantly, what you don't want it to do. Figure out exactly how you want to use the car (daily driver, weekend toy, track dog, etc) and spec the build with that in mind.

2) Set your budget up front and research part cost carefully to make sure your goals are realistic within the budget. When setting the budget, add 20% to what you think it will cost.

Good luck!


But double your original budget instead of adding 20%
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
Doesnt NOS kill your motor? or is that a urban legend?
Set up incorrectly, yes. You're not going to want to put a 250 shot on a stock bottom end. That will kill an engine. Likewise, keeping the stock fuel system with a properly set up bottom end, will still kill the engine. You can't just add nitrous, and expect it to work perfectly. You've gotta change some other things then.
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
Doesnt NOS kill your motor? or is that a urban legend?

It does not kill engines. Running lean, especially with tons of cylinder pressure kills engines. If you run NOS, fuel and ignition upgrades are required.
The cylinder pressures will wear rings and cylinder walls heavily.
Not saying you should not consider it, but homework is required to make it safe.
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 10:23 AM
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All the above is good info, I can only add this,, a 400 hp. car is NOT a daily driver. 400 hp. engines break things. I'm not saying don't do it, I'm saying get a real dd and have the Vette as a toy.
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 11:24 AM
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I agree with the advise of going to the dragstrip and talking/learning from the ones beating there cars on a regular basis. I also recommend you change your goal from a rwhp goal to an et goal..... rwhp is subjective, especially with an automatic transmission.

Having said that, I think you would be very happy with the performance offered from your typical superram, cam, heads, headers and converter combination. With a 350, you would not make 400 rwhp, but your torque curve would be very exceptional...... and you would have a vehicle capable of mid to high 11 second et's, yet still have excellent mileage and streetability...... which despite all you read on the internet, a true 11 second naturally aspirated daily driver is still very impressive in my opinion.

Good Luck with whatever you decide on !
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 11:34 AM
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all good advice and Yes i am thrilled wih my vett now but you know us vett guys we always want more. I could shoot for a 1100 Hp twin turbo set up
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Midnight 85
All the above is good info, I can only add this,, a 400 hp. car is NOT a daily driver. 400 hp. engines break things. I'm not saying don't do it, I'm saying get a real dd and have the Vette as a toy.


so true! ask me how I know!
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 11:58 AM
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You could buy a 383 kit for your block for about $1100 or less, and install a mild smog friendly cam, and be thrilled with about $2500 total.....plus a chip and some bigger injectors.
Down the road, when you get a taste for more HP, you can do a set of heads as well once the bank account recovers.
Think of all the transmissions and rear ends you can shatter with just one engine........
But that's just me, I'm kinda conservative when it comes to throwing money around needlessly.
In fact, I'm building a 383 right now for mine.
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by shamdave
I just had the trans re built and i dont want to have to upgrade the trans and rear end
I believe in the idea of looking at it as a complete package, not just one part of it. In other words, your stock trans. and rear was only intended for so much power and at a point those things will become an issue.
At 91k I would do a complete rebuild, at least rebored/honed block w/good rings, piston, bearing etc. Or go ahead and buy a good crate or shorty from a reputable builder, more of a budget types might be guys like s.schafiroff, TPIS or maybe schmidt, if budget permits, reyer morrison, s. leonard etc. MO
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Midnight 85
All the above is good info, I can only add this,, a 400 hp. car is NOT a daily driver. 400 hp. engines break things. I'm not saying don't do it, I'm saying get a real dd and have the Vette as a toy.
Actually, I think 400 rwhp can easily be tame enough for a daily driver if you are utilizing cubic inches to achieve your power...... a 400 rwhp 434 would be a very, very tame motor. If you're utilizing a 350, its harder to keep it a true well mannered daily driver considering you are starting to utilize rpm to get your power, which typically means lots of cam and a loose converter..... but that too can be daily driver material, but then again, its subjective considering everybody has a different opinion of what constitutes a daily driver.

But, I do agree, I advise another vehicle for daily driving when you're doing heavy modifications to your corvette.....perhaps a nice silverado so you have a tow vehicle to haul your racecar to the track
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To Oh great engine master Teach me

Old Nov 9, 2008 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
A stock dana 36 rear (or modified for that matter) will not stand 500 ft lbs of torque with sticky tires. Plan to build less hp and tq, or plan to upgrade entire driveline.
I'm one of the few that thinks that the Dana 36 is a little tougher than most know...... I put about 500 to 600 passes on my old Dana 36 years ago before it literally blew up. Albeit, at that time, I didn't have 400 rwhp, but I did have quite a bit of torque at the time.... and the rear end saw literally hundreds of 1.6x 60 ft et's.....

My advise to somebody, is keep your Dana rearend straight, with my Dana 36, when I finally did blow it up, I was at an angle about 10 feet passed the tree..... I blew the tires out and got a little fishtailed, and feathered the throttle to get it back hooked up, which it did hook-up when I was at an angle, which puts a lot of pressure on the spider gears, which promptly exploded...... my point, keep it straight and I bet it can last surprisingly long even with 60's as quick as 1.5's....... so far my Dana 44 has seen hundreds of 1.5's 60 fts and even a few 1.4's...... and no problems except with the occasional halfshaft......

but, with these IRS rearends, you never freakn know....

Last edited by Beach Bum; Nov 9, 2008 at 02:39 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mseven
I believe in the idea of looking at it as a complete package, not just one part of it. In other words, your stock trans. and rear was only intended for so much power and at a point those things will become an issue.
At 91k I would do a complete rebuild, at least rebored/honed block w/good rings, piston, bearing etc. Or go ahead and buy a good crate or shorty from a reputable builder, more of a budget types might be guys like s.schafiroff, TPIS or maybe schmidt, if budget permits, reyer morrison, s. leonard etc. MO
My only comment, is that if the motor is fine at 91k, some naturally aspirated modifications are probably fine unless he's planning on spinning the motor up to 7k or beyond...... when I did my first round of modifications on my 85 back in 96...... I had 120,000 miles, I then raced it with the stock shortblock until 175,000 miles with no problems at all...... motor saw 300 1/4 mile passes per year at that time.....I finally threw it out it in favor of a new 383.... there was nothing wrong with it, I checked oil every week, changed it every few months, and rarely had to add a quart between oil changes..... good motor. But, I will say, that motor never saw the other side of 6000 rpm, so maybe that had something to do with its success.

Good Luck !
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Midnight 85
All the above is good info, I can only add this,, a 400 hp. car is NOT a daily driver. 400 hp. engines break things. I'm not saying don't do it, I'm saying get a real dd and have the Vette as a toy.
Really? My car puts down 379 RWHP, that's well over 400 at the crank. I've put 40k miles on it in this configuration and it's never broken a thing.
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