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My 95's Rt. Rear Bose Speaker sometimes the Bass only is distorted. Doesn't do it all the time.You think it's a Amplifier or the Speaker itself?
If you have some electronics knowledge and want to try to fix the amp yourself you can try replacing C172, 10 µfd,16 volt capacitor. This capacitor affects sound quality and if you take the shot it might fix it. The rest of the capacitors in the unit affects popping a squealing and are de-coupling capacitors. Most people replace all the capacitors but that’s the only one that affects sound quality.
Here is another alternative to not doing the work yourself. I use them mainly because I can walk in the door and like to get to know the guys and talk electronics. I got an upgraded CD player from them so I could play my home burnt CDs.
Here is another alternative to not doing the work yourself. I use them mainly because I can walk in the door and like to get to know the guys and talk electronics. I got an upgraded CD player from them so I could play my home burnt CDs.
The Factory Car Stereo guys are great. They recently did a great job for me on my 1986 OEM Bose rebuild. They were factual, prompt, honest, reliable and affordable when many of the other stereo rebuild folks said they could not rebuild my OEM Bose and just wanted to sell me an expensive aftermarket replacement.
While we're on the Bose subject, will changing the cap's cure a low volume problem? My 90 convertible has low volume, lower on some than others.
If your talking about one specific speaker having lower volume than the other(s), then it does sound like the speaker amp. If you have the same or similar amp as in the link and info in the links (in post 6), then there is a strong possibility that the amp might have that C172, 10mmfd capacitor being weak. I can tell you for sure it will cause low volume if the capacitance has changed enough to a real low value below 1.
My point of view is that if you have some electronics talent and understanding, and willing to invest a couple of hours, then I think it worth it to do it your self and save $80+ dollars and take the shot. If your more comfortable taking it out and sending it off having some one else do it, then that direction is for you.
I'd first check the speaker cone for free movement. I've been thru this with my '92, re-capped the amps, bought aftermarket amps (DON'T DO THIS!) from Mid-America, and wound up buying used but good pull outs. The re-capped units stopped popping and aquealing, but just never sounded right. Something else wrong, but could not come up with a schematic for the amps I had. Found block diagrams that were sort of close, but still differences. I changed all electrolytic caps while at it, increasing voltage rating in the process.