I was wondering what you guys have done to make your cars run cooler. I have a 1992 corvette that I would like to make the engine run cooler than it does now. I dont like how hot it gets when I set in traffic. I know that the LT1 was made to run hot, But I would like to cool mine down. I was looking into getting a 160 degree thermostat and a computer chip to kick the fans on earlier. I was just wondering if you guys do it the same way as I want to do or you guys know of a cheaper trick to help me out. Thanks in advance for the help.

 

You can change the coolant temp switch along with the thermostat to kick the fans on earlier. I found the thermostat and coolant switch on ebay.

 

I grounded the fan relay in my '89 so the fans run all the time with the key on...normally the computer grounds the relay which is supposed to turn the fan on at the ~240+ F chip setting.

 

Anyone know why GM made these engines run soo hot before the fan kicks on? And we wonder why there are so many electrical problems in the engine bay. I have stopped having trouble with my electronics due to my constant pull fan and I think it helps the engine last longer ...

 

The engines were designed to run at high temps to burn cleaner for emission reasons.

 

Ah yes, my memory is failing. I used to reconnect the fan relay during my smog session to make the temp rise. One smog tech tested the vehicle and then accelerated the car because it wouldnt pass. I believe making the cat very hot. Then it passed. Another tech said "dont turn the fan off , it doesnt matter". Now I run it on the freeway before smogging. After smog I keep that engine at a cool 180!

 

Running the temps it does probably helps CAFE too.

Jake

 

I have a 94 LT1 with about 105K on it. Last summer it quit going down the road. NO codes, pulled the WP and the Opti and put new ones on. Still, no start. put new Ignition module on and it fired right up. Been running fine ever since. took about 600 miles for the gas mileage to come back up to where it was( 21 or 22 in town--26 or 27 on the road at 80).

Oh, btw, temps dropped to 190 most of the time (used to be 210 in the same conditions) in slow traffic now, the temps stay about 10 degrees cooler. Since it's cooled off, it runs at 188 or 190 even with the AC off. Big difference with the new WP. I've been told the pellet in the thermostat had lost some of its wax (damn if I know) and it was opening more now.

Anyway, it runs SOME cooler and I like that.

bill

 

Is there anyone out there that has done away with the thermostat all together. A friend of mine has a 1986 firebird with a 305 in it. It was over heating. So we took the thermostat out and hes ran it like that every since. I know its kind of a back yard idea, But what type of problems would it cause as I cant see it hurting anything, But maybe not having that good of heat in the winter.

 

Well, no offense but that is not a very bright idea!
They come with a thermostat for a reason. Without the thermostat, it will take much longer to get the car up to normal operating temps.
If you live in a colder climate, it probably would never get up to operating temps.

Your "friend" should have fixed or replaced his "stuck" thermostat instead of just taking it out.

 

Thermostat is in there for a reason.

 

The engineers at Chevy knew what they were doing. First, with reverse flow coolant the heads are cooler which means Chevy can run higher compression.

Second, the operating temp is designed to keep the oil at 215 degrees which is needed to cook (vaporize) the moisture and combustion byproducts out of the oil where they can then be removed by the PCV system.

If your oil temp spent most the time below water's vaporization point, you'd have sludge, corrosion, and engine wear (oil is more effective hot than cold).

FWIW

 

Here's a couple of suggestions and you can obviously do what you want.

1) DO NOT run any car w/o a thermostat.

2) Do not run a 160 thermostat. Some people do, but it's not a good idea. It will not keep your car running cooler. It will only start to cool sooner but will have no effect at keeping the temps low. If you "must" go to a lower thermostat, get a 180.

3) Reprogram the computer to turn the fans on sooner and have them turn on again at a lower temp than the factory setting.

4) Routinely clean all the crap in front of and behind the radiator. C4's are notorious for collecting all kinds of debris in this area and regular cleaning will prevent possible overheating caused by crud blocking airflow.

5) Get yourself a Dewitts radiator. This will work wonders for your temps. It's not cheap but a great investment.

6) Change/flush your coolant every 2 or 3 years. Waiting more than this is no good because after 2-3 years, the rust inhibitors are "used up" and a coolant change will replenish them. Either run 50/50 or a 60/40 mix. In warmer climates, running a bit more coolant (60/40) than the norm (50/50) will raise your boiling point a little bit and this will help with high temperatures, such as in AZ, FL, TX, etc. But don't go more than 60/40 or you can cause an opposite effect to occur and you can overheat. Use distilled water when you do the coolant change. If you don't use distilled water, nasty results can occur within your cooling system. Using non-distilled water CAN chemically react with the metal in the cooling system (radiator, water pump, etc.) and you CAN cause any or all of the cooling system's parts to fail.

 

Yea im not going to run mine without one. I thought that these cars came factory with a 180 degree thermostat. If not what is in these cars stock. I had my coolant system flushed and filled last month, So that should be good to go. As far as reprogramming the computer thats why I was looking into getting the computer chip for that. Once again I appreciate all the help.

 

When I purchased my 1996 over five years ago, I did the following:
1.Changed all hoses and clamps.
2.Full system flush and a fill with 50/50 Dex-cool and distilled water.
3.New water pump.
4.Big Mouth Air Dam.
5.160 degree new tstat.
Went from a highway temp of an average of 190 to 172.
In heavy traffic in South Florida, I went from 210 to 190.

Hope this helps.

 

I believe it came with a 195.

 

Always use a thermostat. I ran mine once and in the winter never got past 135. The engine needs heat to operate correctly. I keep mine at 180 abouts. Got 300,000 on the motor and still running like a champ!!!

 

I installed a Dewitt's radiator and programmed my chip to turn the fans on at 190F. I have a 180 themostat.

The only time I see coolant temps over 210F is when I'm stuck in traffic on a very hot day with the ac on. My coolant stays about 180F to 195F most of the time.

Here's a link that may be helpful.
http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/dox/tips/cool/cool.htm

 

92-96 OEM is 180*.

 

Run the engine coolant too cold and it will take longer for the ECM to go into closed loop. That will cut down on gas mileage. Mileage will suffer as will emissions.

My 92 typically ran at 185 to 195 on the streets when the ambient air temps were below 80 degrees. Anything hotter than that, I would see 195 to 210 but only when the car was moving slowly like city stop and go traffic or sitting at a light.

The key to controlling coolant temps is having the radiator and A/C condensor clear of dirt and debris so that airflow will properly cool the system. Coolant flow over the years will tend to make the tubes in the radaitor thinner and that results in a loss of the ability to transfer heat. With a 92 that has high miles, I would be looking at a new radiator, a new correct thermostat, a complete cooling system flush, and all new hoses.

If you want the secondary fan to come on early, simply turn the A/C on. That forces the secondary fan to run.

In any event a lower temp 'stat like a 160 does nothing more than open up at that temp. Once the stat is fully open it's really no different than a 180 stat. The engine then is cooled based on the ability of the cooling system to do its job.