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On my '84 with 43k on the clock, the brake pedal is as hard as a brick in the morning. The brakes still work if I stand on the pedal, then after abot 5 minutes, the pedal is normal.
On my '84 with 43k on the clock, the brake pedal is as hard as a brick in the morning. The brakes still work if I stand on the pedal, then after abot 5 minutes, the pedal is normal.
Thanks for any input!!
Could be a few things: First, make sure your floor mat isn't bunched up behind the brake pedal...this makes it hard to press the pedal. If your good on the mat then....sounds like you need a new booster or the vacuum line that runs to the booster is loose or cracked. Unhook the vacuum line and plug vacuum gauge into the hose that goes to the booster to see if you are getting good vacuum from the intake. Check the booster side to see if it holds a vacuum aswell.
Checked the vacuum to the booster with the engine cold and hot. It started at 17 inches and ended at about 18.5 inches when the engine was at operating temp..
Are you saying to check the booster, put a "T" connecter between the booster and the manifold or use a vacuum pump on the booster at the check valve?
When you step on the brake in neutral does the RPMs increase? you may want to take a close look at the booster for cracks if its the plastic one, but I'd probably say your booster is shot!
I have a metal booster. I put a "T" connecter between the booster check valve and the manifold.
Vacuum was 17 inches on start up in park. Depressed the brake pedal and the vacuum dropped to 10 inches and stays there. Goes back to 17 inches when I let off the brake pedal .
Let the temp get to 200 degrees, got the same results.
I have a metal booster. I put a "T" connecter between the booster check valve and the manifold.
Vacuum was 17 inches on start up in park. Depressed the brake pedal and the vacuum dropped to 10 inches and stays there. Goes back to 17 inches when I let off the brake pedal .
Let the temp get to 200 degrees, got the same results.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks
My 96 did the samething , it eventualy just stayed hard all the time,
replaced booster and was like new again..you should be able to hear
a hissing when you apply your brakes..
I hear a hiss at all temps when I first apply the brakes. I get the booster to work when the engine warms up and the idle speed gets down to 700 rpm. Was yours not working only when the engine was cold and revs higher?
Maybe you should hook up the vacumn guage to the engine, see what the engine health is like. I'd still spray the booster with carb cleaner, or something to see if it's actually leaking, especially when the engine is cold since that seems to be your problem.
It's coming from the booster. It's the same when the engine is cold or hot. The booster works when the engine gets up to temperature.
If the booster is bad, why does it work when the engine is warm/hot?
How old is the brake booster ? Low miles don't mean a thing if it is an older unit. The rubber diaphram will deteriorate over time. If you hear a hissing, it is your brake booster.
Here's the results with a vacuum gauge.
I put a "T" connecter between the booster check valve and the manifold.
Vacuum was 17 inches on start up in park. Depressed the brake pedal and the vacuum dropped to 10 inches and stays there. Goes back to 17 inches when I let off the brake pedal .
Let the temp get to 200 degrees, got the same results.
Your vacuum system is a "closed" system, much like your AC and hydraulic brakes. A drop from 17 to 10 indicates that your system is partially "open" when you step on the brake pedal, or in other words, you have a leak. With the engine running and the car in park, get down and press the brake pedal with your hand. If you hear a hissing sound coming from the firewall behind the brake pedal, the problem is a leaking diaphram. Leaking booster diaphrams tend to be worse when braking is applied, since this action "stretches" the diaphram.
I didn't hear any hissing when applying pressure on the brake pedal. That's what was keeping me from replacing the booster. I'll get someone with better hearing to get down there. Hoses are all good and about 2 years old.
Also, heard a high pitch whistle from the intake near the EGR last night. Went away after the engine was warm. Didn't seem to affect the vacuum from cold to hot though.
I am going to take the cross fire apart and seal it before I pull the booster.
One other thing I was thinking about is your vacumm reserve tank. I am not familiar with '84 model year, but later C4's have a round plastic ball the size of a grapefruit to "store" vacumm. The purpose of this storage tank is to assist in maintaining a steady vacumm(or reverse pressure) during peak demand.
Locate this vacumm storage tank and ensure that it is not leaking. Also check all your 1-way vacumm check valves and make sure that air only passes............. 1-way