Of course it isn't - but if you're worried about soot, use water. Worked for the Brits in WW2 and Edlebrock was to reintroduce water injection with a new supercharger this Year (though I believe their application was at WOT only). In any event, it accomplishes the same, only you have to top off the supply, which is why the OEM's chose exhaust.

 

Hi new guy here.. well i have a 1991 vette L98 and i removed /air pump / cut and welded tubes and cleaned up the inside of stock headers / 160 thurmostat / fabed up a block off plate for intake / removed both cats and resinatetor so its straight pipe into one and back into 2 with magnaflows but plan on flowmasters asap / moved IAT sensor forward into air filter houseing/ and removed a/c condensor for better air to radiator BUT! left the EGR valve in and the EGR silinoid and the other day i was driving and check engine light come on and motor seemed to have a ruf idel so i get held by a train and had a paper clip and read code witch was 32 EGR so i go and get egr than to find out it has a silinoid thats hard to find.. so i pull top of motor apart and intake to clean the crap out of it and im sitting there a min with a cold one and im looking at intake and remember i made a block off for the intake when i removed the lardge tube and it comes to me the egr would not have worked long anyway with a block off ??? so i plan on removing valve and silinoid I planed on reprograming a chip for it as soon as i put the flowmasters on and a k&n filter looks like il have them reburn chip for no egr now ??? if im missing anything guys please let me know and for post ide change thurmostat to 160 and if your a/c is inop remove cundensor it realy cools it down

 

This has to also be deleted in the chip of course. Along with the code 32 CEL

 

On my 86, the idle was rough, and I eliminated the EGR by sliding a piece of aluminum about .025 thick where the tube connects to the exhaust manifold. I have an 89 right exhaust manifold because I did not like the crimp clamp tube thing.

If you buy the blank off plates for the manifold and the tube, you can drill and tap one blank off and install the EGR sensor right on the exhaust tube blank off plate, and all the solenoids and wiring stay connected and it makes it easy if it ever has to go back together for the smog police.
BUT!
You have to have the later exhaust manifold, or weld the oval plate on your exhaust manifold and use the 89 cross over tube..

 

The ECM only calls for EGR under these conditions:
-steady speed for >10min
-coolant temp >176deg F.
-closed loop operation

Indeed a simple diode between the EGR command line and the EGR Temp Sensor line will fool the ECM into "seeing" EGR soon as it calls for it.

I run a 160deg T-stat and coolant temps are never >176 deg F after cruizing for >10min so my ECM never calls for EGR.

You could simply remove all the EGR crap, block off the three related openings and use the diode "trick" to eliminate exhaust gasses craping up your intake system. Why do you think your TB, plenum, runners & base are black on the inside...CARBON.

As mentioned, I would simply make blank off plates and use OEM bolts to secure them into place. If the surfaces are smooteh enough a little Moly grease will form a nice "seal".

 

"Why do you think your TB, plenum, runners & base are black on the inside...CARBON."

Coking, as it commonly known, comes from the PCV system on shutdown and will occur in vehicles without EGR, so pay attention to the throttle body on those vehicles (like I didn't jamming the throttle plate on my S10 to the point that it sheared a rivet that went through the engine). What you see has zero to do with EGR and removing the PCV system isn't any smarter than removing EGR.

 

I just installed headers and pulled the EGR and AIR and tossed the block-off plates on the back of the intake. I mainly did it so there would be less "stuff" in the engine bay. Didn't throw any codes on my '92, no effect on performance either. Engine bay looks cleaner without it though

 

And you have no idea what's going on inside your motor which, due to the scavanging of exhaust that you get with Headers, may be running lean which means it can detonate and self destruct. Fortunately, it has 2 O2's, and I think a pair of Knock Sensors, but Headers are usually better with a reflash from someone that knows what to add to keep it happy. As to the air pump, the CAT may be gone in short order and hopefully it doesn't plug up or stink when it craps out because the cool factor kinda goes way down when it does.

 

I recently purchased a1987 Corvette and found that the EGR Solenoid had been eaten by rats. Now it is impossible to find a new one.

What did you do to eliminate the EGR Solenoid? Block off plates, ECM, etc.?

Please help.

 

See my suggestions in post #26.

In your case all you need is the command line going to the damaged EGR Sol so you can run the diode line back to the EGR Sw line.
Also, install a 160deg T-stat & fan sw so that cylinder temps do not climb too high when curzin on the highway for a while.

You can then leave the EGR "stuff" on the engine or remove and block off the ports.

 

I have 160 t stat, manual switches for the fans...usually 180-190-in traffic in s florida.....

 

Damn this is an old thread.

 

You're telling me...

 

You're still telling me.

 

everyone is way overthinking it, deleting it will not blow up his engine, way to many armchair mechanics here

 

Unless the O2 sensors or injectors are bad the computer will adjust fuel to 14.7 not lean. Fuel will be rich when in power enrich mode. Unless something is wrong the ECM will never let it go lean ever.