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I bought these 12" wide z06 rims back in the spring with 325-30-19 tires. I ran them during the summer with 1" spacers due to clearance issues with the trailing are brackets and sway bar. I would like to remove the spacers and tuck these in under the wheel well and ultimately lower the rear end back down.
The 2 problems are first the trailing arm bracket. I was thinking of making a new bracket that would move the arms inward about 3/4 of an inch. This would need the frame to be nothched and welded to the new bracket.
The second issue is the sway bar needs to be narrowed.
Has anyone had any experience with these 2 problems and how did you overcome them?
anyway looks like the project is started, more to follow
Well, I have designed a new bracket the would move the arms inward about 3/4 of an inch. this will require notching the frame and welding it in place. I have also identified an area of the rear frame that will need to be altered to make clearance for the sway bar once it is narrowed.
Looks like a good christmas vacation project is underway. I will post up some pics as I go.
Ron
here is the inside part of the new trailering arm bracket
and here is the notch in the rear frame to make room for the new bracket
the other area of the frame that will need so attention is just in front of where the rear bumper mounts. I ended up removing a small notch and just rewelding. this will allow clearance once the sway bar is narrowed 1.5"
Ron
What are you doing with regard to the camber rods (dog bones)? I'd think you would want to go to adjustable length with heim joints. You'll also need to address the toe-rod assembly that bolts to the differential. Not sure the stock setup has an inch of adjustability. Lastly, you'll want to check clearance between your rear tires and the muffler.
What are you doing with regard to the camber rods (dog bones)? I'd think you would want to go to adjustable length with heim joints. You'll also need to address the toe-rod assembly that bolts to the differential. Not sure the stock setup has an inch of adjustability. How are you handling the half-shafts?
He is not narrowing the rear , only moving the dogbones inboard for tire clearance.
I was interested in how he was going to accomodate the dogbones at the spindle end if the chassis mount was inboard from stock.
Well, I have designed a new bracket the would move the arms inward about 3/4 of an inch. this will require notching the frame and welding it in place. I have also identified an area of the rear frame that will need to be altered to make clearance for the sway bar once it is narrowed.
Looks like a good christmas vacation project is underway. I will post up some pics as I go.
Ron
I don't think that cutting, notching your frame is a wise idea. That is going to decrease your frame psi rating and decrease the rigidity as well. Hopefully you haven't done this yet. Is a set of new Z06 wheels really worth that?
Rodj,
I made up some 3/4" steel spacers with longer bolts to postion the dog bones correctly, but I removed the entire rear end now ( looks like 4:10 are coming ) and I think that some 3/4 ince alluminum spacers welded to the knucles would stronger?
I don't think that cutting, notching your frame is a wise idea. That is going to decrease your frame psi rating and decrease the rigidity as well. Hopefully you haven't done this yet. Is a set of new Z06 wheels really worth that?
L98tpi,
The bracket that was installed is thicker and stronger than the thin piece of frame that was removed. I also made the base plate out of 1/4 steel and bolts to the factory location.
I would contact Wheel to Wheel In New York. They modify corvettes all the time, and they even had a piece in Hot Rod Magazine on how they cut and splice a tubular sway bar.
I would bet they have the rear inset brackets for the dog bones already, and would sell you a set that's proven instead of you making your own and crossing your fingers.
He is not narrowing the rear , only moving the dogbones inboard for tire clearance.
I was interested in how he was going to accomodate the dogbones at the spindle end if the chassis mount was inboard from stock.
I ended up making some 3/4"aluminum spacers and welding them to the spindles
I just received the rear end back from having the 4;10's installed so after I get all this back together, the next step will be reshaping the inner plastic wheel wells.
Ron
I ended up making some 3/4"aluminum spacers and welding them to the spindles
I just received the rear end back from having the 4;10's installed so after I get all this back together, the next step will be reshaping the inner plastic wheel wells.
Ron
hey ron my name is cory. i was wondering how this mod worked out. i have a 73 trans am with a 96 c4 suspension front and rear. i had read up on the z06 wheels and thought they would fit with a 13mm spacer. I am having the same problem with the trailing arm bracket. i have the 19x12 wheels with 345 30 19 tires. with great clearance every but the bracket and its just touching. with the 13mm spacer the wheel is perfect with the fender lip. i had grafted the 96 rear frame into the 73 trans am. so it should be exactly like yours. my first thought is to remove the bracket and where the holes in the frame that you cut out. instead weld some heavy washers with welded nuts on the back then make a bracket to for the outside. i think that would give me plenty of clearance. and use a smooth cap head bolt like a torks.
how did this turn out. in the same boat. i bought a zo6 wheel set with Michelin race tires. 18 front 19x12 rear with 345 30 19 thinking a 13mm spacer would do the trick. the wheel fits perfect every where but the trailing arm bracket. and it just barley touches. a half inch would be perfect.