'95 LT1 Ignition Module
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
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From: Green Valley Arizona
'95 LT1 Ignition Module
Anyone know which is the correct ignition module for a '95 LT1; a
D1986A or a D1905E...both Delco. Everyone lists both of them.
Thanks,
Lanny
D1986A or a D1905E...both Delco. Everyone lists both of them.
Thanks,
Lanny
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Sandhills of North Carolina
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
'96 and it did the samething. But...thought I would try this as the last remaining part to change-out. Very curious as to what the data is going to show tomorrow.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
Changed out the OptiSpark unit twice....
Error codes the last two times have been ignition module....plus ASR once and Vehicle Speed Sensor last time.
Have to see what happens tomorrow.
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Keep a suspect eye on your coil, too. If it goes ****-up without warning (like mine did) it could take your ICM out with it, resulting in an IMMEDIATE crank, no-start condition.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
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From: Green Valley Arizona
The engine starts and runs great...until the engine coolant stays around 225-230 degrees due to traffic of just idleing. Something gets hot and then it starts the cutting-out thing....followed a few minutes later by the engine revving-up and cutting-out, bucking.....then it stalls. Wait 30 minutes and all is fine.....until whatever it is, gets hot again. Its the revving-up that I do not understand what it could be other than the PCM.
Changed the coil several months ago thinking it might be it...but it was not.
Thought for sure it was the PCM, sent out for repair and nothing was found, sent it back again, was sent a different one, problem still there, although got different error codes with this PCM. Sent out again and nothing wrong was found.
I mentioned that I tried the Igniiton Module from my '96 although it has a different part number, problem was the same. That is why I initially ruled out the Ignition Module being the problem, but thought I would replace it anyways as a last resort.
Changed the coil several months ago thinking it might be it...but it was not.
Thought for sure it was the PCM, sent out for repair and nothing was found, sent it back again, was sent a different one, problem still there, although got different error codes with this PCM. Sent out again and nothing wrong was found.
I mentioned that I tried the Igniiton Module from my '96 although it has a different part number, problem was the same. That is why I initially ruled out the Ignition Module being the problem, but thought I would replace it anyways as a last resort.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Sandhills of North Carolina
I'm really watching this because I'm having similar issues.
I've changed/done about everything mentioned here already. Mine doesn't run that warm though. It just seems to have to run for about 10-15 minutes and then it starts. It's more of a lope when it is in drive sitting still. Turning the AC on makes it stop. It doesn't idle bad when in neutral. Sometimes changing a part seems to fix it but it just comes back later on.
I've changed/done about everything mentioned here already. Mine doesn't run that warm though. It just seems to have to run for about 10-15 minutes and then it starts. It's more of a lope when it is in drive sitting still. Turning the AC on makes it stop. It doesn't idle bad when in neutral. Sometimes changing a part seems to fix it but it just comes back later on.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Lubbock for now, headed for Oklahoma
This is listed in the injector sticky thread at the top.....
You should watch them all, there is a lot of good info there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEFLtw3T_j0
You should watch them all, there is a lot of good info there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEFLtw3T_j0
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 5
From: Sandhills of North Carolina
This is listed in the injector sticky thread at the top.....
You should watch them all, there is a lot of good info there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEFLtw3T_j0
You should watch them all, there is a lot of good info there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEFLtw3T_j0
Pro
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
From: Lubbock for now, headed for Oklahoma
I'm really watching this because I'm having similar issues.
I've changed/done about everything mentioned here already. Mine doesn't run that warm though. It just seems to have to run for about 10-15 minutes and then it starts. It's more of a lope when it is in drive sitting still. Turning the AC on makes it stop. It doesn't idle bad when in neutral. Sometimes changing a part seems to fix it but it just comes back later on.
I've changed/done about everything mentioned here already. Mine doesn't run that warm though. It just seems to have to run for about 10-15 minutes and then it starts. It's more of a lope when it is in drive sitting still. Turning the AC on makes it stop. It doesn't idle bad when in neutral. Sometimes changing a part seems to fix it but it just comes back later on.
Just a few thoughts.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
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From: Sandhills of North Carolina
I have a pretty healthy warm miss with my 94' but have yet to take any action on it. I am wondering if the previous poster may not be right about the EGR. Although you will of course get a code, I would try disconnecting the EGR and see what you get. I have seen catalytic converters swell under heat and cause a greater restriction. You may try pounding on yours with your fist to see if you get a good rattle out of it. It may not be clogged but any additional back pressure may be forcing a weak EGR open.
Just a few thoughts.
Just a few thoughts.
Thanks for the thought but new EGR and highflow cats also. I'm really leaning toward the opti.
Pro
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From: Lubbock for now, headed for Oklahoma
Melting Slicks
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